UKC

My 5:10 verdes have finally given up and I'm looking for a new shoe. I like the fit around the toe as I have longer 2nd toe than big toe, I like the compromise between smearing and edging and I like that they are lace ups. However the gimpy heal I find annoying.

If I don't go for another pair of verdes can anyone suggest an alternative to try on?

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

Verdes are discontinued, so it might be difficult to get a pair of them. After breaking 2 of them in less than half a year, I opted for Tenaya Masai which provide very similar fit for my feet. 5:10 Pinks are probably going to be recommended, but I never tried them on.

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):
I'm the same as you, I've got a longer second toe. My first proper shoes were the verdes which were excellent. I've now got the pinks which fit pretty much the same, they're just stiffer and the heel is more snug. But the fit is the same as far as I can tell. Verdes are still for sale in a lot of places so I'd be surprised if you couldn't find any.

In reply to Matt Amos:

Ta. I'll give the masai and pinks a try.

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

Andrea bolderini's have a nice wide fit at the toes as well very comfortable, the only down side is the rubber is very hard wearing and not very grippy

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

I am the same too, seems its not that uncommon. Like you the 5.10 boots offer models that cope quite well with this type of foot. I would love to use the Sportiva rock boots but they seem a poor fit for people like me.

As an older climber who has stuffed his feet into rock boots for 56 years my feet are not a pretty picture! With a longer second toe, over time this has become permanently arched. Also I have developed bunions and I think this has happened in part because my big toes can more easily move inwards - second toe being arched. A foot expert may comment here, just my impression. The shape of the better Sportiva boots leave a slack area beside my big toe. It would be good if the rock boot manufactures included "performance" models that suited the widest range of foot shapes!
Dave

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

If the verdes fit, then the pinks are the natural choice. Slightly stiffer but a better all round shoe imo.

Was also using Verdes for the last couple of years and now I'm wearing my first pair of Pinks. Concur to what has been said above. Very similar fit (you can stay with the same size), improved heel (though still not nearly as good for heelhooks as the La Sportiva Pythons I use for bouldering), slightly stiffer. I don't really like the additional stiffness, it just seems that it takes ages to break them in and have a good connection to the rock. That said, I very much like climbing shoes with very thin rubber, so thin that many people had potentially thrown them away already

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

Unlike many people I don't agree with the comments about the pinks in regards to the fit and as a an obvious replacement for the verdes. I'm in a similar boat to yourself, love the verdes but they are dying so I tried on the pinks and could instantly feel they were not the same. They come up higher on the ankle and have a slighly wider fit in my opinion. I've tried the mens muira laces and they are just not right in the toe box, I've tried the womens version on and they felt a lot better in the toe box. The Katana velcros are similar (my current replacement) but the lace ups are very expensive but I haven't had the chance to try them. I have been recommended the Tenaya's and also the Evolv Bandit's but am yet to try them on either. I do have the Tenaya Oasi's though and they do fit my feet very well, although they are a very different shoe to the verde.

In reply to David Smith:
Hi David,
You have just described my gnarly foot shape with great accuracy. Until recently I favoured Five Ten Galileos but these are discontinued. I am now using Evolv Prime SC's and I am blown away by their edging performance. They are roomy and comfortable - until you stub your toe when the pain is excruciating.
Once worn in they are soft enough to climb a range of rock angles though for out and out smearing I'd choose a Five Ten Anasazi Velcro. I had to buy bigger than my shoe size. I'm a 9 in Galileo, Anasazi and Evolv Bandit but a 10(!) in a Prime SC.
I wasn't at all impressed by the Evolv Bandits - they remained way too stiff throughout their lifespan.