UKC

Can anyone recommend a route Mulhacén? I believe there will be some way up the north face that involves some combination of hiking and trad climbing; I'm hoping there is actually somewhere to climb there, not just footpaths.

Going anywhere near the refuges is not essential, as we are hoping to haul wild camping gear up after us, and sleep out during what I'm assuming will be a multi-day ascent. Any local knowledge would be very gratefully received.

Thanks guys!

Rapsling

In reply to Rapsling:

I found Mulhacen to be more of a walkers peak outside of the winter. The rock appeared unsuitable for climbing kind of shale like and crumbly, I don't think there are big faces requiring multi day ascents and hauling. Just a pair of trainers to hike up and down from the village.

I might of missed something however and there could well be somewhere. It was seriously hot when I was there during June a few summers ago, I found some climbing close by in Orgiva but it was grubby, didn't see much traffic and difficult to locate.

I can seriously recommend the Picos however an amazing place, was truely astonished by the amount of climbing and the size of some of the walls. Particulary recommend Naranja its sporty trad in places and a long day out including walk in!

Quite away from the south though!

In reply to Rapsling:

Have climbed the north face in winter, via an AD snowy gully/mixed line.. rock was very chossy unlikely to be a good summer venue.

In reply to Rapsling:

Yup, agree with the guys above. I did it in summer conditions via La Siete Lagunas, and really enjoyed it, but it is really a dusty walk.

Am planning to go back next winter, but I will then liken it to Ben Macdui.

I too found some bolted stuff near Orgiva, and again, wasn't impressed. Can't speak for the Granada side, but I supect it'll be similar.

In reply to Rapsling:

Not much on Mulhacén. Scrambling across the north face on the Gran Vasares path and better stuff on NE ridge. But only scrambling, rock too shattered for real rock climbing.

You could try the Espolon de Alcazaba nearby. The NW face of Alcazaba is a big face and will give enjoyable scrambling with some pitches of 4/4+ en route. Better as a full on winter climb, but it is done in summer quite a lot.

The northern side of Veleta will give the best trad rock climbing with some excellent long routes on big walls. Easy approach from Hoya de la Mora above Sierra Nevada ski area.

Hope this helps.

In reply to Rapsling:

Really difficult to advise as you give no indication of what sort of season you are talking about or what sort of climbing you want. I would say that on the main Alpuhara ridge you are going to be backpacking on paths in the summer; there's naff all summer climbing high up.

I'd also agree with much of what has been said above. I've worked out there in winter and as JohnnyW says it can get a bit Cairngormsy if the weather is duff in winter! Done a bit of climbing and scrambling as well both to the S and the N of the main range.

I would suggest you have a look at http://sierranevadaguides.co.uk/ and drop a mail to Mike and Jane; friendly, helpful people . They've got a house on the S side of the range and have worked there for ages and know the area really well. In fact they've put up some of the bolted routes in the valleys to the S.

Andy

In reply to Andy Say:

Thanks very much, Andy! I'm going in about a month btw.