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We (2 families, i.e. 4 adults and 4 kids from 4-9 years) will be going on a 3 week motorhome based road trip in Norway. The idea is that (often) two of the adults go climbing together and the remaining two stay with the kids. Perhaps a few times we may go climbing all together. Hence what I'm looking for is some suggestions for places to visit, routes to climb, things to do, maybe also the best itinerary or perhaps links to good blogs where people have done a similar trip.
Maybe a few more details:
We will be starting in northern Germany. First question is whether to drive via Sweden, or if it is better / more worthwhile to take a ferry from Denmark directly to Norway. We will have 3 weeks, so I guess we better restrict to southern Norway and won't travel further north than around Trondheim. That said, I know that the Lofoten is a faboulous climbing destination, but I think it is just too much of a drive to get there - but you may still convince me otherwise.
I'm very much interested in good multipitch climbing. This can be trad or bolted - don't mind either of which. However, in granite I fancy good natural lines more than pure slab friction climbing. This perhaps means trad rather than bolted, but still I'm happy for suggestions for both. What I'm dreaming of are routes such as for example Motörhead on Eldorado, Luna Nascente in Val di Mello or Nutcracker in Yosemite, to name just a few which I have done in the past. Gradewise, we climb up to around F7a/7b on bolted limestone multipitch, but on granite and trad this will be less. Perhaps from F6a up to about F6c or around E3ish (not so much experience with the British grading system, sorry). We don't mind a bit of a walk-in for multipitch climbing, but given our setting it is still better if it is not epic days.
Regarding single pitch climbing, we favour sport over trad. Would still visit a good trad crag if appropriate, but would give preference to bolts. Grade-wise, we would be looking for a range roughly between 6b and 7c. Yeah, and finally that all linked with some nice places to stay with our motorhomes and the kids, and on an intinerary which does not involve excessive driving. Happily awaiting some suggestions, thx already now!
Maybe a few more details:
We will be starting in northern Germany. First question is whether to drive via Sweden, or if it is better / more worthwhile to take a ferry from Denmark directly to Norway. We will have 3 weeks, so I guess we better restrict to southern Norway and won't travel further north than around Trondheim. That said, I know that the Lofoten is a faboulous climbing destination, but I think it is just too much of a drive to get there - but you may still convince me otherwise.
I'm very much interested in good multipitch climbing. This can be trad or bolted - don't mind either of which. However, in granite I fancy good natural lines more than pure slab friction climbing. This perhaps means trad rather than bolted, but still I'm happy for suggestions for both. What I'm dreaming of are routes such as for example Motörhead on Eldorado, Luna Nascente in Val di Mello or Nutcracker in Yosemite, to name just a few which I have done in the past. Gradewise, we climb up to around F7a/7b on bolted limestone multipitch, but on granite and trad this will be less. Perhaps from F6a up to about F6c or around E3ish (not so much experience with the British grading system, sorry). We don't mind a bit of a walk-in for multipitch climbing, but given our setting it is still better if it is not epic days.
Regarding single pitch climbing, we favour sport over trad. Would still visit a good trad crag if appropriate, but would give preference to bolts. Grade-wise, we would be looking for a range roughly between 6b and 7c. Yeah, and finally that all linked with some nice places to stay with our motorhomes and the kids, and on an intinerary which does not involve excessive driving. Happily awaiting some suggestions, thx already now!
In reply to Cellinski:
If you do want to go to Arctic Norway driving through Sweden is probably quicker from where you are starting but it is a hell of a long way - not much fun for the kids probably unless they are very mellow about just sitting in the car (mine were when they were smaller!). Where are you starting in Germany? If you get the ferry to Denmark from Puttgarden (or one of the ferries east of there), then I guess just driving over the bridge and driving up through Sweden towards Oslo makes sense. Then you could stop in Bohuslän for the brilliant crag climbing (although, unfortunately for you, virtually all trad climbing not sport). If you are driving into Denmark in Jutland, then I guess driving up to the top and and getting a ferry straight to Norway makes more sense?
I've not been, but my friends have all been very impressed with climbing in Setesdal and Nissedal. That is the area in Southern Norway that seems to get the most international attention anyway - guidebooks available etc.
If you do want to go to Arctic Norway driving through Sweden is probably quicker from where you are starting but it is a hell of a long way - not much fun for the kids probably unless they are very mellow about just sitting in the car (mine were when they were smaller!). Where are you starting in Germany? If you get the ferry to Denmark from Puttgarden (or one of the ferries east of there), then I guess just driving over the bridge and driving up through Sweden towards Oslo makes sense. Then you could stop in Bohuslän for the brilliant crag climbing (although, unfortunately for you, virtually all trad climbing not sport). If you are driving into Denmark in Jutland, then I guess driving up to the top and and getting a ferry straight to Norway makes more sense?
I've not been, but my friends have all been very impressed with climbing in Setesdal and Nissedal. That is the area in Southern Norway that seems to get the most international attention anyway - guidebooks available etc.
In reply to TobyA:
We will be starting from Hamburg, so I think both options (driving through Sweden or taking the ferry directly to Norway) are open. Thus, I'm looking for some recommendations... On one hand, I would like to visit Sweden, but on the other hand I want to avoid the potential later feeling that it was not worth it and we should have gone directly. The fact that Sweden (or in particular Bohuslän) only offers single pitch trad climbing would not put me off in the first place. It's more a matter of gauging whether it is "worth it", i.e. if there is so much clearly better climbing and nicer places in Norway that we'd rather go directly.
Really think we'll do without traveling far north and chase the good climbing in southern Norway. Setesdal and Nissedal are clearly on my list. Still happy to take particular recommendations for these, or also other places.
We will be starting from Hamburg, so I think both options (driving through Sweden or taking the ferry directly to Norway) are open. Thus, I'm looking for some recommendations... On one hand, I would like to visit Sweden, but on the other hand I want to avoid the potential later feeling that it was not worth it and we should have gone directly. The fact that Sweden (or in particular Bohuslän) only offers single pitch trad climbing would not put me off in the first place. It's more a matter of gauging whether it is "worth it", i.e. if there is so much clearly better climbing and nicer places in Norway that we'd rather go directly.
Really think we'll do without traveling far north and chase the good climbing in southern Norway. Setesdal and Nissedal are clearly on my list. Still happy to take particular recommendations for these, or also other places.
In reply to Cellinski:
With three weeks, kids and a camper I wouldn't trek to the Arctic. There is good climbing all around Southern Norway, as already mentioned Nissedal is great with long routes in a lovely part of the world. Then then there is the area round Drammen south of Olso. Add the south coast around Grimstad, the area inland from Stavanger and another around Bergen there is enough for a great tour. Each of these has a guidebook - you could do a circular tour always depending on the weather.
A few photos here as a taster: http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/southern_norway&page=all
Chris
With three weeks, kids and a camper I wouldn't trek to the Arctic. There is good climbing all around Southern Norway, as already mentioned Nissedal is great with long routes in a lovely part of the world. Then then there is the area round Drammen south of Olso. Add the south coast around Grimstad, the area inland from Stavanger and another around Bergen there is enough for a great tour. Each of these has a guidebook - you could do a circular tour always depending on the weather.
A few photos here as a taster: http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/southern_norway&page=all
Chris
Post edited at 11:01
In reply to Cellinski:
It seems lots of Norwegians (from Oslo mainly I guess) go down to Bohuslan to climb so I suppose they think it is worth it, but it may just be they've done all the good stuff closer to them! I've only climbed in Arctic Norway, so I'm afraid I can't say whether Bohuslan is better or worse than the Southern Norwegian areas.
Have you checked out the ferry (and bridge) prices? The Puttgarden - Denmark ferry I thought was quite price when we took it, but it's less driving if you are going to Sweden over the bridge, and there is one toll bridge between the Danish islands you miss if you go that way.
It seems lots of Norwegians (from Oslo mainly I guess) go down to Bohuslan to climb so I suppose they think it is worth it, but it may just be they've done all the good stuff closer to them! I've only climbed in Arctic Norway, so I'm afraid I can't say whether Bohuslan is better or worse than the Southern Norwegian areas.
Have you checked out the ferry (and bridge) prices? The Puttgarden - Denmark ferry I thought was quite price when we took it, but it's less driving if you are going to Sweden over the bridge, and there is one toll bridge between the Danish islands you miss if you go that way.
In reply to TobyA:
No, I haven't exactly checked the total cost for the various options. Pretty complex thing anyway, as it involves flights to the place where we will hire the motorhomes. Getting to Hamburg is cheap(er) for us, AFAIK the motorhomes are quite a bit cheaper in Germany rather than Scandinavia but then there is the additional cost and time for getting to Norway from Germany. Already this involves quite a few variables, and then add-in subjective stuff such as the sea crossing (which for us, coming from Switzerland is somehow pretty special), the opportunity to visit a few crags in Sweden, et cetera. Without some advice from someone who has experienced it, not easy to take the right decision.
Thx also to Chris for the taster. Seems as if there definitely is some good multipitch climbing in southern Norway. On the other hand, the fact that no particular route suggestions have been made so far also lets me fear a bit that the real classics which are sought after are pretty rare, finally. Respectively, browsing the web shows many bolted but very runout slab friction climbs where you need to give yourself quite a lot of margin - and that's not what I dream of. Unfortunately, haven't seen too many proud lines that are well bolted or can be well (trad) protected yet.
No, I haven't exactly checked the total cost for the various options. Pretty complex thing anyway, as it involves flights to the place where we will hire the motorhomes. Getting to Hamburg is cheap(er) for us, AFAIK the motorhomes are quite a bit cheaper in Germany rather than Scandinavia but then there is the additional cost and time for getting to Norway from Germany. Already this involves quite a few variables, and then add-in subjective stuff such as the sea crossing (which for us, coming from Switzerland is somehow pretty special), the opportunity to visit a few crags in Sweden, et cetera. Without some advice from someone who has experienced it, not easy to take the right decision.
Thx also to Chris for the taster. Seems as if there definitely is some good multipitch climbing in southern Norway. On the other hand, the fact that no particular route suggestions have been made so far also lets me fear a bit that the real classics which are sought after are pretty rare, finally. Respectively, browsing the web shows many bolted but very runout slab friction climbs where you need to give yourself quite a lot of margin - and that's not what I dream of. Unfortunately, haven't seen too many proud lines that are well bolted or can be well (trad) protected yet.
In reply to Cellinski:
Nissedal (and Setesdal) are predominantly slabs. But Haegefjell in Nissedalen has a few steeper crack lines. Mot Sola and Haeger spring to mind. Generally saying from what I've learned is that slabs are more safely bolted in Nissedal than in Setesdal.
Between Nissedal and Uskedalen, on the western edge of Jotunheim -national park is the region of Hurrungane, which has some alpine like rock climbs. But due to the long approach and also they are perhaps more of mountaineering they might not be the best option for you.
Uskedalen (near Bergen) offers some really good lines (slabby, but lines generally follow cracks), Mitsommarnattsdröm is supposed to be really good.
For sport, Beachen or something near Stryn is supposed to be really good (single pitch, steep and juggy gneiss).
Romsdalen would have more of steeper natural lines, but not sure if you have the time (if you stop on the way there).
And definitely stop in Bohuslan on the way (about 2 h before Oslo). It's world class granite finger crack climbing. Mainly striking natural lines, and best of all the new guidebook is in the printers and available soon ( https://www.facebook.com/groups/391522367557471 ). The scenery is rather nice and also lots to see for the kids (eg. Röe Gård near Galgeberget is a nice cafe and also small home animal "zoo").
> Respectively, browsing the web shows many bolted but very runout slab friction climbs where you need to give yourself quite a lot of margin - and that's not what I dream of. Unfortunately, haven't seen too many proud lines that are well bolted or can be well (trad) protected yet.
Nissedal (and Setesdal) are predominantly slabs. But Haegefjell in Nissedalen has a few steeper crack lines. Mot Sola and Haeger spring to mind. Generally saying from what I've learned is that slabs are more safely bolted in Nissedal than in Setesdal.
Between Nissedal and Uskedalen, on the western edge of Jotunheim -national park is the region of Hurrungane, which has some alpine like rock climbs. But due to the long approach and also they are perhaps more of mountaineering they might not be the best option for you.
Uskedalen (near Bergen) offers some really good lines (slabby, but lines generally follow cracks), Mitsommarnattsdröm is supposed to be really good.
For sport, Beachen or something near Stryn is supposed to be really good (single pitch, steep and juggy gneiss).
Romsdalen would have more of steeper natural lines, but not sure if you have the time (if you stop on the way there).
And definitely stop in Bohuslan on the way (about 2 h before Oslo). It's world class granite finger crack climbing. Mainly striking natural lines, and best of all the new guidebook is in the printers and available soon ( https://www.facebook.com/groups/391522367557471 ). The scenery is rather nice and also lots to see for the kids (eg. Röe Gård near Galgeberget is a nice cafe and also small home animal "zoo").
Post edited at 09:04
We have taken three 4-week road trips to Norway in our campervan with our kids, the first when they were 8 and 11 years old, the latest when they were 18 and 20 (and working 8as at Flatanger). It’s a great place to combine a family holiday with climbing – you are almost always near water and the weather in summer is often very warm. In more remote areas you can just park up your motorhome overnight, or alternatively there are lots of lovely campgrounds.
While southern and central Norway is nice enough, it's the Western Fjords and the Arctic that make a trip to Norway really special, so if you don't think you can take in the Arctic I'd really recommend travelling up the Western coast. You could consider making a circuit of it, taking the ferry between Denmark and Kristiansand in one direction, and the Oresund bridge via Sweden in the other.
On one of our 4-week trips we managed to take in both NordKap and Lofoten, so even with just 3 weeks you may be able to get north of the Arctic Circle if you (and the family) don't mind putting in the driving.
Like others, I would recommend Setesdal - it would be on your way to/from Kristiansand. Yes, most of the routes are slabby and many are run-out, though there is some well-bolted family friendly cragging at Loefjell Plaisir and steeper, well bolted routes at Urdviki. We camped at Flateland – well suited for families with a shallow river inlet to play in.
A visit to Romsdal on your way up the coast allows you to take in amazing scenery / climbing history as well as valley cragging.
Assuming you get as far as Trondheim, it’s well worth pushing on to Flatanger as it is an amazing place. There is good quality climbing in the lower grades as well as the hard stuff. Hell is also a good venue in hot weather; there is enjoyable, well bolted climbing at all grades. Ekne is another really nice bolted venue about 1hr from Trondheim.
If you are passing Oslo, Hauktjern is only a few miles from the city centre but surprisingly scenic. And another vote for Bohuslan – but take your trad gear!
If you’re mostly after sport climbing, “Climb Norway” (ISBN 978-82-997769-1-2) covers sport venues across Norway – however, some of the featured crags are a bit scrappy so I’d check other sources as well.
While southern and central Norway is nice enough, it's the Western Fjords and the Arctic that make a trip to Norway really special, so if you don't think you can take in the Arctic I'd really recommend travelling up the Western coast. You could consider making a circuit of it, taking the ferry between Denmark and Kristiansand in one direction, and the Oresund bridge via Sweden in the other.
On one of our 4-week trips we managed to take in both NordKap and Lofoten, so even with just 3 weeks you may be able to get north of the Arctic Circle if you (and the family) don't mind putting in the driving.
Like others, I would recommend Setesdal - it would be on your way to/from Kristiansand. Yes, most of the routes are slabby and many are run-out, though there is some well-bolted family friendly cragging at Loefjell Plaisir and steeper, well bolted routes at Urdviki. We camped at Flateland – well suited for families with a shallow river inlet to play in.
A visit to Romsdal on your way up the coast allows you to take in amazing scenery / climbing history as well as valley cragging.
Assuming you get as far as Trondheim, it’s well worth pushing on to Flatanger as it is an amazing place. There is good quality climbing in the lower grades as well as the hard stuff. Hell is also a good venue in hot weather; there is enjoyable, well bolted climbing at all grades. Ekne is another really nice bolted venue about 1hr from Trondheim.
If you are passing Oslo, Hauktjern is only a few miles from the city centre but surprisingly scenic. And another vote for Bohuslan – but take your trad gear!
If you’re mostly after sport climbing, “Climb Norway” (ISBN 978-82-997769-1-2) covers sport venues across Norway – however, some of the featured crags are a bit scrappy so I’d check other sources as well.
In reply to Cellinski:
We've been living in Oslo for the last year, so have explored a fair amount of the south.
I'd consider a route that went like:
Bohusland: wonderful, single and multi (that is, two) pitch on granite that wants to be grit.
Oslo: some local crags - Hauktjern and Kolsås are the best two, both have a mix of sport and trad although only Kolsås is multi-pitch. Probably not worth a detour for, but if you're in Oslo anyway quite fun.
Drammen: some good climbing, sport and trad, about 45 mins east of Oslo. Single or two pitch I think.
Nissedal: trad and proper multipitch, Hægefjell is a dome of rock all alone, 10 pitches for the longer routes. Sport and trad.
Setesdal: single and multipitch, Bø has sport up to about 13 pitches if I remember correctly. Mostly sport I think.
Rogaland: sport and trad, some wonderful climbing. Single and shorter multipitch.
At this point you'll be on the west coast, you could go north to Usekdal, I've never been here but people rave about it so I should probably mention it to you!
Otherwise south to Kristiansand - not been here either I'm afraid (been out with injury this year) but the new guidebook just came out.
You could do the above and then on the way back cut the corner by getting the ferry back to Denmark from Kristiansand, save quite a bit of driving.
Campsites for motorhomes are fairly easy to find, it's quite popular.
We've been living in Oslo for the last year, so have explored a fair amount of the south.
I'd consider a route that went like:
Bohusland: wonderful, single and multi (that is, two) pitch on granite that wants to be grit.
Oslo: some local crags - Hauktjern and Kolsås are the best two, both have a mix of sport and trad although only Kolsås is multi-pitch. Probably not worth a detour for, but if you're in Oslo anyway quite fun.
Drammen: some good climbing, sport and trad, about 45 mins east of Oslo. Single or two pitch I think.
Nissedal: trad and proper multipitch, Hægefjell is a dome of rock all alone, 10 pitches for the longer routes. Sport and trad.
Setesdal: single and multipitch, Bø has sport up to about 13 pitches if I remember correctly. Mostly sport I think.
Rogaland: sport and trad, some wonderful climbing. Single and shorter multipitch.
At this point you'll be on the west coast, you could go north to Usekdal, I've never been here but people rave about it so I should probably mention it to you!
Otherwise south to Kristiansand - not been here either I'm afraid (been out with injury this year) but the new guidebook just came out.
You could do the above and then on the way back cut the corner by getting the ferry back to Denmark from Kristiansand, save quite a bit of driving.
Campsites for motorhomes are fairly easy to find, it's quite popular.
In reply to Cellinski:
I would echo all the comments above on where to go, don't try and push to far north, it's further than it looks!
I wouldn't consider the ferry, not cheap and slow. You will probably sail by some crags up the Swedish coast you wished you visited too! From 'the bridge' to the Norwegian border is 5-6 hours in a car, less in a hire car, but will obviously be slower in the van. Roughly guessing, from Hamburg it's about 8 - 9 hours in a van to Bohulsän you'll be ready for a stop by then. There are places to climb south of Gothenburg, mainly between Halmstad and Varberg, whilst being good, they aren't quite as world class and I would keep pushing north.
Just in Gothenburg, after you go through some tunnels, is your last chance of big cheaper shops and fuel. There are shops and fuel nearer the border but many of these will cost 10% more as they are priced for Norwegians coming south who still think it looks cheap! You will of course be able to get other stuff than doesn't go off even cheaper in Germany. But try and rollover the border into Norway with a full tank and fridge.
I would echo all the comments above on where to go, don't try and push to far north, it's further than it looks!
I wouldn't consider the ferry, not cheap and slow. You will probably sail by some crags up the Swedish coast you wished you visited too! From 'the bridge' to the Norwegian border is 5-6 hours in a car, less in a hire car, but will obviously be slower in the van. Roughly guessing, from Hamburg it's about 8 - 9 hours in a van to Bohulsän you'll be ready for a stop by then. There are places to climb south of Gothenburg, mainly between Halmstad and Varberg, whilst being good, they aren't quite as world class and I would keep pushing north.
Just in Gothenburg, after you go through some tunnels, is your last chance of big cheaper shops and fuel. There are shops and fuel nearer the border but many of these will cost 10% more as they are priced for Norwegians coming south who still think it looks cheap! You will of course be able to get other stuff than doesn't go off even cheaper in Germany. But try and rollover the border into Norway with a full tank and fridge.
In reply to Cellinski:
My one piece of advice for your trip is make sure you don't just turn up to get on the ferries - you'll be shafted. Book in advance via the internet (even a day or so) and save a wad of money. You can often do this through the very helpful tourist info offices all over Norway.
My one piece of advice for your trip is make sure you don't just turn up to get on the ferries - you'll be shafted. Book in advance via the internet (even a day or so) and save a wad of money. You can often do this through the very helpful tourist info offices all over Norway.
In reply to Cellinski:
Looks like you've already got some good advice but here's anyway. I've lived in Oslo for a year now and have been climbing around the Southern half of Norway and Bohuslan.
Nissedal should definately be a stopping point. It's slabby there are some really strong features. Online guide here
http://www.osifjell.no/arkiv/klatreforer_nissedal.pdf
Worth getting the Gå Telemark guide if you want to more options. Wouldn't bother with the RF miniguide personally as not many routes covered.
Setesdal has great scenery but there's a lot of friction climbing, often without much in the way of features. Worth a few days though to mix it up.
Rogaland. Really good. Particularly if you are after single pitch sport. Climbing everywhere. Guidebook is a bit understated. Better than than suggests.
Oslo & Drammen. Worth stopping. Hauktjern has some classic sport lines at the grades you mention. Drammensfjord also has good single pitch sport. The Oslo crags can be busy at the weekends and there's a lot of top-ropers around.
Hemsedal. A lot of the climbs are probably too easy for you. Probably best if climbing HS-HVS.
Uskedalen. Not been here but people I know on the West coast rave about this place. 'En midtsommernatts drøm' is the super classic.
Romsdal. Only driven through here but busting to do some climbing. One of the best places in Norway for trad. Routes are as long as you can handle!
Bohuslan. The climbing is really good. World class. Particularly the cracks. Better than any single pitch climbing that I have done in Norway. It's nearly all trad. There's a new guidebook out next month but might be hard to get hold of the first batch if not in Sweden. Gothenburg also has good climbing and more of a trad/sport mix.
New Jotunheimen guide is just out. Hurrungane is the highlight. Some routes on Storen can be a long day out though.
My blog might give you some ideas (just the Norwegian posts listed below). You'll need to skip back to the posts before winter for most of the rock stuff.
http://leeharrisonclimbing.blogspot.no/search/label/Norway
Looks like you've already got some good advice but here's anyway. I've lived in Oslo for a year now and have been climbing around the Southern half of Norway and Bohuslan.
Nissedal should definately be a stopping point. It's slabby there are some really strong features. Online guide here
http://www.osifjell.no/arkiv/klatreforer_nissedal.pdf
Worth getting the Gå Telemark guide if you want to more options. Wouldn't bother with the RF miniguide personally as not many routes covered.
Setesdal has great scenery but there's a lot of friction climbing, often without much in the way of features. Worth a few days though to mix it up.
Rogaland. Really good. Particularly if you are after single pitch sport. Climbing everywhere. Guidebook is a bit understated. Better than than suggests.
Oslo & Drammen. Worth stopping. Hauktjern has some classic sport lines at the grades you mention. Drammensfjord also has good single pitch sport. The Oslo crags can be busy at the weekends and there's a lot of top-ropers around.
Hemsedal. A lot of the climbs are probably too easy for you. Probably best if climbing HS-HVS.
Uskedalen. Not been here but people I know on the West coast rave about this place. 'En midtsommernatts drøm' is the super classic.
Romsdal. Only driven through here but busting to do some climbing. One of the best places in Norway for trad. Routes are as long as you can handle!
Bohuslan. The climbing is really good. World class. Particularly the cracks. Better than any single pitch climbing that I have done in Norway. It's nearly all trad. There's a new guidebook out next month but might be hard to get hold of the first batch if not in Sweden. Gothenburg also has good climbing and more of a trad/sport mix.
New Jotunheimen guide is just out. Hurrungane is the highlight. Some routes on Storen can be a long day out though.
My blog might give you some ideas (just the Norwegian posts listed below). You'll need to skip back to the posts before winter for most of the rock stuff.
http://leeharrisonclimbing.blogspot.no/search/label/Norway
Terrific advice, thx to everybody who contributed! Always happy to take more of course, but it really has helped me a lot to shape a good itinerary. And once you know the names of the places you want to visit, it's also much easier to learn more about them. The hardest part is always finding out where it is worthwhile to go.
In reply to Cellinski:
Having lived here a while can give some Rogaland / S.Norway tips;
Trad guide to Rogaland can be downloaded from the BRV website here; http://www.brv.no/default.asp?id=440 Some newer crag topos can be downloaded here also.
It is a shame the (poor) quality of the pdf guide does not match the (excellent) quality of some of the climbing!
Recommended multipitch crags/routes;
Dirdalsveggen
200m steep, exposed crack and corner climbing (routes På Kanten, Comfortably Numb, Superhjørnet, King Crimson, Dr Norman and Mr Hunt))
Heskestad
200m impressive pillar in a beautiful setting (route Sleepwalk Crack)
Gloppedalen
300m pillar rising above a (lake) beach (routes No1, Resien til Ixtlan)
Single pitch trad at Dale is excellent but is covered in the sport guide (klippeklatring i Rogaland). Sport climbing in the area is nothing special, its attraction is more the unusually high concentration of crags in the area (relative to rest of the country). Bersagel probably the pick of the bolted venues for french 7s.
Otherwise, Nissedal well worth a visit as mentioned by others. Setesdal not so much, fairly monotonous, often scary, friction climbing. Uskedalen highly recommended though somewhat bigger and north facing.
Enjoy the trip
Having lived here a while can give some Rogaland / S.Norway tips;
Trad guide to Rogaland can be downloaded from the BRV website here; http://www.brv.no/default.asp?id=440 Some newer crag topos can be downloaded here also.
It is a shame the (poor) quality of the pdf guide does not match the (excellent) quality of some of the climbing!
Recommended multipitch crags/routes;
Dirdalsveggen
200m steep, exposed crack and corner climbing (routes På Kanten, Comfortably Numb, Superhjørnet, King Crimson, Dr Norman and Mr Hunt))
Heskestad
200m impressive pillar in a beautiful setting (route Sleepwalk Crack)
Gloppedalen
300m pillar rising above a (lake) beach (routes No1, Resien til Ixtlan)
Single pitch trad at Dale is excellent but is covered in the sport guide (klippeklatring i Rogaland). Sport climbing in the area is nothing special, its attraction is more the unusually high concentration of crags in the area (relative to rest of the country). Bersagel probably the pick of the bolted venues for french 7s.
Otherwise, Nissedal well worth a visit as mentioned by others. Setesdal not so much, fairly monotonous, often scary, friction climbing. Uskedalen highly recommended though somewhat bigger and north facing.
Enjoy the trip
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