UKC

Hey folks. Heading out to the Ecrins in a couple of weeks and planning an attempt at Barre Des Ecrins. As I understand it the normal route heads up between the Dome de Neige and BDE. Is it recommended to have two technical axes for this or is the steep stuff mainly easy rock climbing? I'm struggling to find any quality route descriptions for BDE.

Also I am struggling to decide on clotching as I've never been to the Alps before. I'm not sure whether to just don my Paramo smock the entire time and adjust my layers underneath or have a softshell instead. Also, is it worth taking a Gilet, down or synthetic? Should I take a down one and wear my Paramo if I get in shit weather? Or wear a softshell and have a synthetic Gilet/Jacket?

In reply to WJV0912:

From what I remember, easy rock climbing/scrambling in big boots, think we pretty much moved together rather than pitching it. Certainly didn't need two technical axes.
Hth, JW

In reply to WJV0912:

http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/barre-des-ecrins-french-alps

In reply to WJV0912:
2axes would get in the way, unless you wanted to climb the Coolidge direct route straight up the last face to the summit. It's a great peak, enjoy

In reply to WJV0912:

Hi there you may find the following link + video useful which I shot last summer:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69527
The walk-in is superb and the Barre an amazing mountain. The final summit ridge is normally only about PD+ but gets quite a bit harder when out of condition, which it was when our group were there. As others have said you only need 1 axe so I hope you get the weather, enjoy and look out for the semi-tame marmot which will pose for photos if you feed it on the walk up to the hut!
Cheers Dave

In reply to WJV0912:

A typical alpine day often starts chilly and then gets very warm as soon as the sun is up assuming you keep moving. Wind is usually the chilly factor during the day. Personally I think the Paramo is likely to be too warm most of the time, especially as a smock.
For most days I would tend to wear full sleeve ( that can roll up ), chest zipped light wicking top and a lightweight hooded softshell with full length zip. A lightweight synthetic windproof gilet or jacket keeps me toasty on the pre dawn starts and, if on a high / committing route a second heavier duty synthetic jacket.
Most of the time, unlike the UK, it is best to avoid going out in poor weather because when it is bad at altitude it is very bad!

In reply to Mark Haward:
My first 4000er in 2008. In July/August was really warm in the day. Remember the walk down the glacier being baking, warmer than Vallee Blanche. We put off starting the walk in until 5pm, had a light bivi below the hut and got cracking by about 2am. First on summit that day. Enjoy, it's a great climb and summit.

In reply to WJV0912:

It does. But do not start up directly from the col between the 2, it is quite steep and technical rock climbing from there, difficult with cold hands. Go slightly left (East), maybe 10-20 m (facing away from the Glacier Blanc, i.e. South), then it is much easier. Direct to the col is normally an abseil at the end of the summit ridge when descending (which can be done with a single rope, in fact a 40 m rope will do it, just).

For the summit ridge in either direction, take lots of slings. There are lots of spikes that you can easily lassoo, any other rock gear will be too fiddly to bother with.


As others have said, no unless you are going for something like the Couloir Coolidge. Even that can be done with one axe, but it is "exciting" to do so.

In reply to WJV0912:


I don't want to misinterpret you, but if by "quality" you mean "having as much detail as UK rock routes", then alpine route descriptions are very different. This is where route-finding skills and mountain sense come in. Having said that, on routes like the BdE Voie Normale it's very difficult to get off-route, partly because of the people and the trench they make in the snow, and also because of the line and the amount of tat (though that can be (very!) misleading!).

An analogy for the difference might be to think of how a competent rock climber reads a scrambling guidebook's route description: although it'll have a lot of detail, your experience will mean that all you need to know is where the route starts, and perhaps its general line. A walker on the other hand will find the detail very useful.


It's almost a certainty that you'll fnd your Paramo too hot, though I have friends who swear by it in the Alps (as I do in the UK, except on hot summer days). The key thing is flexibility, bearing in mind that you'll be on the move almost the whole time. (Think of running in winter and then walking in blazing summer sun.) Base and 1 mid layer plus windshirt plus a warm layer and shell do me.