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Poland - sport climbing areas, ideally in the south?

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 sebbo 01 Jul 2015
I’m off to Poland in 2 weeks and was hoping to do some sport climbing while I’m there so thought I’d check with you folks to see if anyone knows some good climbing areas there?
Going with my girlfriend who is fairly new to climbing so somewhere with easy routes and some 6b/6c would be ideal. Some easy sport multipitch would be ace.
We will be based in the south for 5 days (near Katowice/Krakow) and the north for 3 days (in Gdansk), and will have a car. Thinking of just taking sport climbing gear to keep weight down but if there are really good trad areas we might be tempted this trip or in future.
Looking hot which could be a problem, especially with my Scottish complexion (white as a snowman) but no doubt it’ll be a good trip.
Any tips?
 flash13 01 Jul 2015
In reply to sebbo:

My partner is from Katowice so in my I climbed in the juras which is an area that spans between Katowice and Kraków. It's all limestone and very much a mix of sport and trad though it mostly seemed bolted to me. I would recommend looking up grade comparisons for polish climbing as they use a strange Roman numeral system. That way you can aim to see which crags you want to go to.
The climbing is spread about and is closer to Kraków rather than Katowice.

As for the North I have no idea!

OP sebbo 02 Jul 2015
In reply to flash13:

Thanks for the info Flash. Can you recommend any areas or crags in particular?
Also, do you know of any good guidebooks or online guides/topos?
 TonyG 02 Jul 2015
In reply to sebbo:

This is all based on memory from about 12-15 years ago, so it's possible that a few things have changed since then, but if I remember rightly, there are two main areas in the Polish Jura... Jura Cztestochowskie and Jura Krakowskie. The former is located near Czestochowa, and the latter is near Krakow (as the names suggest).

The former has two main areas, Podlesice and Rzedkowice, and having only climbed once outside Krakow, I'll stick to talking about these. To access, take a train to Zawiercie and then a bus to either of those places. You can actually walk between the two villages in an hour or two along a lovely forest path. The rock is limestone outcrops, generally on the tops of small hills. Routes were a mix of trad and bolted sport climbing, and there's a full range of grades from easy to outrageous. Back in the days when I was going there, people used to stay at a B&B in Rzedkowice run by a lady called Pani Stachowa, and in Podlesice at a hotel (called "Ostaniec") by the main road just down from the crags.

Podlesice had a few main areas that were grouped by the names of the hills they were on, Gora Zborow and Gora Koloczek (where "Gora" means "hill" or "mountain"). Those two are then split into the actual rock groups on the hills (e.g. Wielblad, Glowa cukru, Dziewica etc...).

Back in those days the guidebooks we used were Polish, and were written (if memory serves) by Jan Kielkowski, but I could be misremembering the name. They're slim books and cheap to buy from climbing shops, and there was one for each area. I'd guess you'd be able to find online topos and route descriptions somewhere nowadays, but not sure...

Routes are generally single pitch, and I assume 50m ropes are fine, because we never had anything longer than that.

Sorry I can't talk much about individual routes, as it's all too long ago now. Hope that helps! Have a great trip...

Tony
Bartek 02 Jul 2015
In reply to sebbo:

Topos in Polish, so you might want to use Google translator:
http://members.upcpoczta.pl/d.tim - topo Jura North
http://climb.pl/topo-polska
http://tinyurl.com/pahnd27
http://tinyurl.com/pyut6mg
http://pza.org.pl/topo/przewodnik.acs - Jura + north of Poland near Gdansk - climbing on some old railway bridges
http://tinyurl.com/p3z8ucy
http://tinyurl.com/ogmsjpr

You can ask for more help on forum.wspinanie.pl; I'm rather sure some users there know English and will be willing to help you.
OP sebbo 03 Jul 2015
In reply to Bartek:

Thanks Bartek and Tony, that's some great info and those topos will defo come in handy.

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