UKC

Hi UKclimbers,
The weather in Chamonix at the moment is +30c everyday and 10c on the Midi without freezing at night for the past 2 evenings. What are people's opinions on how safe the approach / descent would be for Dent du Geant in this kind of heat without refreezing cycle? I haven't had a good look at the approach but am guessing it's best to avoid in these conditions due to rock, snow and ice fall. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks
Jon

In reply to myrockface:

I haven't done it yet (end of this month :-0), but as I understand it the main problem would be unpleasant snow conditions rather than major rock/ice fall hazard. Let us know how u get on though. Maybe a bit of rock climbing around Trident area instead for now?....

In reply to myrockface:

We did the approach (ended up on Rochefort arete) in the heat wave year when MB was banned and people were evacuated from the Matterhorn. It was unpleasant, as is basically a shale scramble, rocks were being knocked off by many parties and it was hard to avoid doing the same. If you are up for it, probably be wise to be first up the approach slopes as early as possible. Not much fun coming back down either but parties had dispersed a bit by then.

In reply to myrockface:

I'm not sure how the higher temps would affect the approach but when you get on the ridge, after the glacier( not the Dent itself) keep on the right hand side. We headed into the what looks like easier terrain, a kind of broken couloir and it became a death trap with loose rock being kicked down by climbers above. It's hard to describe the exact position, we were warned but still went wrong. It's loose whatever the temperature.

Thanks for the replies, and Caradoc for the good advice, we went up a few days ago and absolutely agree stick to the right hand side of the shale arete - certainly a maze of paths! On the way down we found a pretty secure path but the way up was definitely interesting in places - and yes of the arete can lead to some death trap gullies.
We bivvied for 2nights and there was a fair amount of rock coming down, mostly late mornings actually - some would hit the glacier path but most was swallowed up by the bergschrund. In the heat it wasn't as atrocious as i thought it'd be, though be warned the bergschrund is very open now and the main bridge across collapsed in the day - there is an alternative by heading climbers left onto some loose rocks but can't recommend it.
Amazing climbing conditions - very little wind, warm rock (we waited to start a bit later as we weren't in a rush for the cable car and didn't want to get caught up with the masses of people doing an alpine start!). Approximately 20-25people on the route each day.

In reply to myrockface:

Congratulations, the summit is amazing and the descent is pretty interesting too.