UKC

Swaledale for sport climbing?

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 tmawer 11 Jul 2015
Just got back from a pleasant walk between Keld and Muker in Swaledale and noticed a few limestone crags that do not show on the UKC data base. This includes Kisdon Scar, which according to an old Northern England guide, had a few sport routes on it. Just wondering if there is any worthwhile climbing in that area now?
OP tmawer 12 Jul 2015
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Thanks! It looks as if it could probably be developed further if there were a group of keen locals to do the job.
 Simon Caldwell 12 Jul 2015
In reply to tmawer:

I've only climbed trad in Swaledale, but all the crags I've been to, the rock quality is variable (to put it charitably!)
OP tmawer 12 Jul 2015
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

They like how I imagine some of the other crags in Yorkshire, such as Giggleswick, may have looked before bolting!?
 Bob 12 Jul 2015
In reply to tmawer:

> They like how I imagine some of the other crags in Yorkshire, such as Giggleswick, may have looked before bolting!?

Even the worst bits of Giggleswick were/are better than the rock in Swaledale. I think you'd need a quarrying licence if you decided to try and clean them up

The limestone is a different series from that further south and wasn't formed in big thick beds but lots of little ones that aren't bonded that well.
 Lankyman 26 Jul 2015
In reply to Bob:

> I think you'd need a quarrying licence if you decided to try and clean them up

A bit harsh, Bob. I was quite keen back in the 1980s to develop some of the crags in this area. Chris Crowder and I abbed several of the lines at Kisdon which were later climbed by Chris Craggs and Colin Binks at around E2/E3 then went into the 1992 NoE guide. The over-riding impression of the place was STEEP - the big walls have some bolts (old by now) - a few lines are described in the book. On the other side of the river are some more crags including a big pinnacle, part of which fell into the river a few years ago!

> The limestone is a different series from that further south and wasn't formed in big thick beds but lots of little ones that aren't bonded that well.

There are several different beds of Yoredale limestones which all have differing characteristics. Some of the rock fits that bill whereas other stuff is much sounder. We also explored several crags nearby some of which would have provided some good trad routes. Chris got out of climbing and put his gardening skills to better use as the Blue Peter gardener (post-Percy Thrower!). We never went back. From another recent thread it sounds like someone has been trying out Hagg Wood as a sport venue?
 Seymore Butt 28 Jul 2015
In reply to tmawer:

Saw your posting, thought I'd add this photo of kisdon scar I took last year. Must admit the crag looks pretty good for a sport crag, if someone is prepared to put some effort in. Problem for me the drive takes nearly 2 hrs .

https://ukc2.com/t/261911.jpg

Al

OP tmawer 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Seymore Butt:

Yes, my suspicion is that if it were closer to a larger number of climbers it would have been developed more.

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