UKC

Chamonix Conditions

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 gavinpeach 20 Jul 2015
Hi,
2 of us are heading to chamonix on wednesday. We hoped to get several classics done (frendo, kuffner, tour ronde, chere couloir) however conditions don't look favourable due to the recent high temperatures. Has anyone had any recent experience of the above routes or any other alpine routes in the area? Cheers gav
 hairy51 21 Jul 2015
In reply to gavinpeach:

We're off soon as well and had a similar agenda, looking at the OHM info, recent weather and various posts on here it seems like a weeks rock climbing would be better option!

 Martin Haworth 21 Jul 2015
In reply to gavinpeach:

Frendo isn't doable, I don't think the Chere is either.
With the Kuffner the problem will be getting to it and getting down.
 tjoliver 21 Jul 2015
In reply to Martin Haworth:
As Martin said, Frendo is currently a no-go (top section is bare glacial ice; I'm sure if you wanted a complete sufferfest you could get up it but I wouldn't recommend it). The Kufner is probably do-able but the approach slopes will be dry and sketch. The route itself could also be a bit loose and sketchy in places. Not ideal conditions. Maybe ask at the OHM when you arrive in Cham. Not sure about Chere but wouldn't be surprised if it's dry. Was looking thin but climable about 10 days ago, but will have thinned out a lot since then. Bear in mind even if its climable it may not be safe. I can imagine there's a lot of loose rock around once the snow in the upper sections melts out. Tour Ronde is do-able, but out of its classic routes only the SE arete is in (both for ascent and descent; N face, SE couloir and Gervasutti are all in horrible condition). In general, when looking at routes I'd focus more on routes which don't normally require much in the way of snow or ice to be in condition. Hope the good weather holds for your trip!
Post edited at 16:20
OP gavinpeach 21 Jul 2015
In reply to tjoliver:

Thanks for the information all of you; You've confirmed what I was thinking. I'll ask at the guides hut but routes on the envers, brevent etc seem like they will be the sensible choice.
 Mark Haward 25 Jul 2015
In reply to gavinpeach:

Cheri approach is very threatened by seracs, (more than usual ) at the moment. Vallee Blanche is full of yawning crevasses. Some of the bergshrunds around the Envers are tricky at the moment - check route by route

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