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Hello,
Planning a trip to Cornwall (West Penwith) and really looking forward to it. I have never climbed there and it is something I am really excited about. I was wondering what are the best routes to start with? The ‘settle into routes’ (if that makes sense?). Grade wise, up to HVS. Buying a guide book today.
Any other info/advice you have going...I’m all ears
Post edited at 10:54
In reply to Peach276:
I think good advice for Cornwall is to drop a grade or two for your first route or two. It's not that routes are undergraded but Cornish (or any) Granite climbing can feel very different if you're unfamiliar with it.
Hope you have a great trip it's magical!
I think good advice for Cornwall is to drop a grade or two for your first route or two. It's not that routes are undergraded but Cornish (or any) Granite climbing can feel very different if you're unfamiliar with it.
Hope you have a great trip it's magical!
1
In reply to Peach276:
Bosigran is one of my favourite UK cliffs and it's full of classics. Doorpost, Nameless, Little Brown Jug, Anvil Chorus, Paragon, Autumn Flakes, Doorway, Venusberg, Zig Zag, Ochre Slab routes 1 and II the list goes on...........
Al
Bosigran is one of my favourite UK cliffs and it's full of classics. Doorpost, Nameless, Little Brown Jug, Anvil Chorus, Paragon, Autumn Flakes, Doorway, Venusberg, Zig Zag, Ochre Slab routes 1 and II the list goes on...........
Al
Post edited at 11:14
3
In reply to Peach276:
I suspect most people head to Bosigran or Sennen for their first taste of Cornish granite. Don't know about settle in routes but there are plenty of quintessential granite routes to go at.
Bosigran is easy access, no abseil required for the main crag, non tidal, low to mid grade multi-pitch classics (Doorpost, Little Brown Jug, Anvil Chorus, etc). Also Bosigran Ridge for semi alpine ridge scrabble by the sea.
Sennen is ab or scramble/down climb approach, mostly non-tidal but base of cliff can be wave washed in big swell. Again bursting with classic routes.
Have fun.
I suspect most people head to Bosigran or Sennen for their first taste of Cornish granite. Don't know about settle in routes but there are plenty of quintessential granite routes to go at.
Bosigran is easy access, no abseil required for the main crag, non tidal, low to mid grade multi-pitch classics (Doorpost, Little Brown Jug, Anvil Chorus, etc). Also Bosigran Ridge for semi alpine ridge scrabble by the sea.
Sennen is ab or scramble/down climb approach, mostly non-tidal but base of cliff can be wave washed in big swell. Again bursting with classic routes.
Have fun.
1
In reply to Peach276:
Try some VDiffs they can be good climbs and give you an idea of Cornish granite, at Sennan Cove intermediate route is a great VD, ledge route at Bosi is also worth doing imho
Try some VDiffs they can be good climbs and give you an idea of Cornish granite, at Sennan Cove intermediate route is a great VD, ledge route at Bosi is also worth doing imho
1
In reply to Peach276:
Another vote for Bosigran as a first Cornish crag. Full of quality routes from Diff up through the grades.
Another vote for Bosigran as a first Cornish crag. Full of quality routes from Diff up through the grades.
1
In reply to Peach276:
Once you've got the feel of the place ( Sennen Bosigran), then Chair Ladder is a must - superb routes in the Diff - HVS range.
Once you've got the feel of the place ( Sennen Bosigran), then Chair Ladder is a must - superb routes in the Diff - HVS range.
1
In reply to Mark Kemball:
Thanks All,
I'm sat here smiling away. Lots to look forward to.
Appreciate your replies.
Thanks All,
I'm sat here smiling away. Lots to look forward to.
Appreciate your replies.
1
In reply to Peach276:
It's not all granite. Definitely check out Gurnard's Head. 'Right Angle' (HS) and 'Shark' (HVS/E1) might suit.
It's not all granite. Definitely check out Gurnard's Head. 'Right Angle' (HS) and 'Shark' (HVS/E1) might suit.
Post edited at 11:53
1
In reply to jim jones:
Always good advice for any new area. If you're used to gritstone, you'll probably end up adding a grade in Cornwall!
> I think good advice for Cornwall is to drop a grade or two for your first route or two
Always good advice for any new area. If you're used to gritstone, you'll probably end up adding a grade in Cornwall!
1
In reply to Peach276:
Many of the best routes and experiences in West Penwith are away from the honeypots and those honeypots will be very busy over the summer holidays.
All those routes suggested already are great, but if you do want to get off of the beaten track some good routes in your range would be:
Martel Slab, VS, Tater Du (not granite, quite hard, very good route and place)
Lucretia and Luke Lively, VSs, Boscawen Point (big walk in, but worth it)
Iron Bells, HS, Porthguarnon East (tidal, quiet)
St Loy. Any of the HS and VS pitches. Non tidal, still fairly quiet, right next to the sunniest place in the UK - allegedly)
Axis, VS, and Supercrack, VS, Carn Barra (good walk in keeps it quiet, quite possibly best granite crag in Penwith but best at low to mid E grades. Non tidal, but many routes, although not Supercrack, require abseils)
Zawn Face Route, HVS, Land's End (ridiculous but good fun. Pretty much guaranteed to have it to yourself, except for the hundreds of tourists on the cliff top)
Waltzing Matilda, HVS/E1, Bosigran Ridge Area. Amazing and very well protected traverse of the lower walls of Bosigran Ridge. HVS in supplement, but due an upgrade.
Variety Show, HVS, The Great Zawn. TGZ at a reasonable price. 1st pitch is brilliant, 2nd pitch not so good.
If you do want to get away from the busier spots, then buy the CC guide rather than the Rockfax. Rockfax is a good guide all the same.
Cheers,
Tom
Many of the best routes and experiences in West Penwith are away from the honeypots and those honeypots will be very busy over the summer holidays.
All those routes suggested already are great, but if you do want to get off of the beaten track some good routes in your range would be:
Martel Slab, VS, Tater Du (not granite, quite hard, very good route and place)
Lucretia and Luke Lively, VSs, Boscawen Point (big walk in, but worth it)
Iron Bells, HS, Porthguarnon East (tidal, quiet)
St Loy. Any of the HS and VS pitches. Non tidal, still fairly quiet, right next to the sunniest place in the UK - allegedly)
Axis, VS, and Supercrack, VS, Carn Barra (good walk in keeps it quiet, quite possibly best granite crag in Penwith but best at low to mid E grades. Non tidal, but many routes, although not Supercrack, require abseils)
Zawn Face Route, HVS, Land's End (ridiculous but good fun. Pretty much guaranteed to have it to yourself, except for the hundreds of tourists on the cliff top)
Waltzing Matilda, HVS/E1, Bosigran Ridge Area. Amazing and very well protected traverse of the lower walls of Bosigran Ridge. HVS in supplement, but due an upgrade.
Variety Show, HVS, The Great Zawn. TGZ at a reasonable price. 1st pitch is brilliant, 2nd pitch not so good.
If you do want to get away from the busier spots, then buy the CC guide rather than the Rockfax. Rockfax is a good guide all the same.
Cheers,
Tom
1
In reply to Peach276:
Best route:
Saxon (HVS 5a)
Best crag:
Chair Ladder
All the classics are ace (Doorpost, Right Angle etc). Sennen is a bit overrated, but pleasant enough.
Best route:
Saxon (HVS 5a)
Best crag:
Chair Ladder
All the classics are ace (Doorpost, Right Angle etc). Sennen is a bit overrated, but pleasant enough.
1
In reply to Peach276:
As others have said:
Sennen for single pitch and convenience (short walk in, abseil descent after each route).
Bosigran for multipitch (15 minute walk in).
Neither is really tidal. I know Sennen has plenty of 'multipitch' climbs but probably everything can be run together. For Sennen the walk-in is a bit more exciting than Bosi but at Bosi the descents can maintain interest... neither should be too much of an issue of you are climbing HVS though. The Rockfax (West Country Climbs) will keep you going at Bosi for probably a dozen visits, Sennen for half a dozen, plus it includes other local crags (which I should really get round to doing!).
Bosigran Ridge is amazing though (with some moving together - I'm not sure it would be as good pitching as it would take too long on the easier bits?). Make sure you do the zig-zag bit in the middle - where you change from a rising traverse leftwards to a rising traverse rightwards then mount the ridge and ride it left It does have the disadvantage of being tidal on the first pitch though (one of the best, and the only properly vertical one, so don't miss it).
As for Chair Ladder, I want to go but have been avoiding it so far to avoid having to fight off seagulls (or wade through too much seagull crap) but I guess it should be getting to the end of (the worst of) seagull season now?
As others have said:
Sennen for single pitch and convenience (short walk in, abseil descent after each route).
Bosigran for multipitch (15 minute walk in).
Neither is really tidal. I know Sennen has plenty of 'multipitch' climbs but probably everything can be run together. For Sennen the walk-in is a bit more exciting than Bosi but at Bosi the descents can maintain interest... neither should be too much of an issue of you are climbing HVS though. The Rockfax (West Country Climbs) will keep you going at Bosi for probably a dozen visits, Sennen for half a dozen, plus it includes other local crags (which I should really get round to doing!).
Bosigran Ridge is amazing though (with some moving together - I'm not sure it would be as good pitching as it would take too long on the easier bits?). Make sure you do the zig-zag bit in the middle - where you change from a rising traverse leftwards to a rising traverse rightwards then mount the ridge and ride it left It does have the disadvantage of being tidal on the first pitch though (one of the best, and the only properly vertical one, so don't miss it).
As for Chair Ladder, I want to go but have been avoiding it so far to avoid having to fight off seagulls (or wade through too much seagull crap) but I guess it should be getting to the end of (the worst of) seagull season now?
Post edited at 12:38
1
In reply to Peach276:
Ignoring your question - this is not one to look at until you've settled in - but Saxon at Kenidjack is superb at HVS.
Ignoring your question - this is not one to look at until you've settled in - but Saxon at Kenidjack is superb at HVS.
1
In reply to James B:
Recommend camping behinf First & Last pub (£5 for the two of us) rather than one of the posher sites at nearer £20
Recommend camping behinf First & Last pub (£5 for the two of us) rather than one of the posher sites at nearer £20
In reply to Peach276:
If you are ticking classics be prepared to queue and remember Chair Ladder has lost the start of a key route recently: Terriers Tooth. The rock in the scar is poor, harder and bold and I think the new logbook 3 stars is more about nostalgia than the reality of what remains.
I find West Penrith Granite similar to Grit in the way it climbs... great classics lthrough to lots of worthwhile stuff with no stars (but occasionally some variable grading), the classics fully deserve their ratings and grade wise are mostly OK, if not a bit easy compared to grit. Land's End Long Climb being an exception... I'm a 'tough but fair' grit honed grader and think it's at least full on HS 4a despite its lowly VD grade and harder still for the short of arm on the penultimate pitch traverse... it can be climbed as a VD but you need to bypass Elbow Corner on its left, the traverse (or jump!) by downclimbing underneath and back up agian, and the final necky wall by an easier corner on its left. The finish of Commando Ridge is more like a reachy HS 4c than the Rockfax VS 4b.
If you are ticking classics be prepared to queue and remember Chair Ladder has lost the start of a key route recently: Terriers Tooth. The rock in the scar is poor, harder and bold and I think the new logbook 3 stars is more about nostalgia than the reality of what remains.
I find West Penrith Granite similar to Grit in the way it climbs... great classics lthrough to lots of worthwhile stuff with no stars (but occasionally some variable grading), the classics fully deserve their ratings and grade wise are mostly OK, if not a bit easy compared to grit. Land's End Long Climb being an exception... I'm a 'tough but fair' grit honed grader and think it's at least full on HS 4a despite its lowly VD grade and harder still for the short of arm on the penultimate pitch traverse... it can be climbed as a VD but you need to bypass Elbow Corner on its left, the traverse (or jump!) by downclimbing underneath and back up agian, and the final necky wall by an easier corner on its left. The finish of Commando Ridge is more like a reachy HS 4c than the Rockfax VS 4b.
Post edited at 13:53
1
In reply to Offwidth:
I've always found Cornwall to be a bit random in terms of queues. First trip to Sennen on a sunny August BH weekend there was us, a group of squaddies, and nobody else at all. So we wandered around all day picking of classics at will.
> If you are ticking classics be prepared to queue
I've always found Cornwall to be a bit random in terms of queues. First trip to Sennen on a sunny August BH weekend there was us, a group of squaddies, and nobody else at all. So we wandered around all day picking of classics at will.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Generally a sensible idea but for Cornish granite up to HVS, actually bollox. One thing that is so delightful about Cornish routes around the HS-VS mark is that they take the same wild territory that the E2-5s go through (and the consensus is, correctly, that those grades ARE usually nails), but just on massive chunky holds and and really quite reasonable climbing. Compared the grit there's less pure jamming, less pure laybacking, less pure friction moves, at those grades. Anvil Crack vs Anvil Chorus anyone??
> Always good advice for any new area. If you're used to gritstone, you'll probably end up adding a grade in Cornwall!
Generally a sensible idea but for Cornish granite up to HVS, actually bollox. One thing that is so delightful about Cornish routes around the HS-VS mark is that they take the same wild territory that the E2-5s go through (and the consensus is, correctly, that those grades ARE usually nails), but just on massive chunky holds and and really quite reasonable climbing. Compared the grit there's less pure jamming, less pure laybacking, less pure friction moves, at those grades. Anvil Crack vs Anvil Chorus anyone??
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
You can be lucky but Sennen classics are nothing like as good IMHO as the Chair Ladder or Bosigram classics.
You can be lucky but Sennen classics are nothing like as good IMHO as the Chair Ladder or Bosigram classics.
1
In reply to Fiend:
I think he meant the classic HS and VS climbs are sometimes soft cf grit (he doesnt do much HVS)
I think he meant the classic HS and VS climbs are sometimes soft cf grit (he doesnt do much HVS)
Post edited at 13:59
In reply to Offwidth:
I agree - we had one day at Sennen but didn't go back. Chair Ladder and Bosigran have had many repeat visits
I agree - we had one day at Sennen but didn't go back. Chair Ladder and Bosigran have had many repeat visits
In reply to Fiend:
Not in my experience. Just had a quick browser through my logbook. Little Brown Jug I found hard for the grade. Flannel Avenue I made a total fist of. South Face Direct I found the 2nd pitch tough for 4c (and the 3rd pitch miles easier than 4c). But virtually every other route (VS and below) I found either soft or overgraded (relative to what I'm used to).
Just my opinion of course But in line with the recommendation to try something easier first and see how the style/grading/whatever fits in to your strengths and weaknesses.
> Generally a sensible idea but for Cornish granite up to HVS, actually bollox
Not in my experience. Just had a quick browser through my logbook. Little Brown Jug I found hard for the grade. Flannel Avenue I made a total fist of. South Face Direct I found the 2nd pitch tough for 4c (and the 3rd pitch miles easier than 4c). But virtually every other route (VS and below) I found either soft or overgraded (relative to what I'm used to).
Just my opinion of course But in line with the recommendation to try something easier first and see how the style/grading/whatever fits in to your strengths and weaknesses.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Okay like Offwidth suggested, I thought you were meaning the other way around, i.e. the granite will feel hard compared to the grit at those grades.
Anyway Killas is where it's at down there m/
Okay like Offwidth suggested, I thought you were meaning the other way around, i.e. the granite will feel hard compared to the grit at those grades.
Anyway Killas is where it's at down there m/
Post edited at 16:17
In reply to Peach276:
Sennen best for après climb food etc though good coffee shack at Porthgwarra. Bos best starting crag as others have mentioned.
Sennen best for après climb food etc though good coffee shack at Porthgwarra. Bos best starting crag as others have mentioned.
In reply to Peach276:
One warning re Bosigran this year, it's full of ticks (the beast, not successfully climbing routes).
One warning re Bosigran this year, it's full of ticks (the beast, not successfully climbing routes).
In reply to Chris H:
Heresy! The Tinners is the clear winner in the food/pub stakes
> Sennen best for après climb food etc though good coffee shack at Porthgwarra. Bos best starting crag as others have mentioned.
Heresy! The Tinners is the clear winner in the food/pub stakes
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Yes great route as is the other VS beside it.
> Only Killas route I've done is Royal Forester. Now that one's a proper VS
Yes great route as is the other VS beside it.
In reply to Peach276:
Peach,
I'm sure the great unasked-for grading debate will roll on (don't they always?), but Cornish granite is rightly famous and I'm sure you'll have a blast.
The climbing's tough at the lower end of the grading spectrum - not necessarily technical, but when you take the style of climbing, along with the scale and some of the settings, the routes can feel a lot more challenging than their Peak counterparts.
In terms of where to go, Bosi is a classic venue, but horribly polished in places and quite forbidding: if that's your thing, then crack on, but Cornwall can be altogether more inviting. I'd echo the comments about Sennen - the ease of access and single pitch height mean it's less of an adventure than the crags - and if you've come all this way, then you might as well get an experience you can't get at home. If you have a spare half-day, Demo Route is brilliant, though.
If you're looking for a relatively friendly, multi-pitch crag with less of the crowds, with classic HS-VS routes to break yourself in, then it's Chair Ladder all the way. There are national classics like Diocese, South Face Direct and Pegasus; it's a shame about Terrier's Tooth and the rockfall, but it happens here.
St Loy is a great recommendation by Tom - make sure you park at Treverven campsite, as it cuts the walk-in by three-quarters. Cenopod Corner is a tiny gem. You could also look at Vessacks West, with a couple of brilliant corner climbs at about 5a. Fox Promontory isn't at all bad. Cribba Head is worth visiting just for Kernyck at HS and, as has already been recommended, Right Angle at Gurnard's Head is a must-do - Shark is ace, but definitely E1 and you'll need to prussik back up your an rope if you struggle with it.
As a reference for Chair Ladder, I was there with Dan Bailey of this parish today. Ask him!
If you have any problems, feel free to drop me a line.
Martin
Peach,
I'm sure the great unasked-for grading debate will roll on (don't they always?), but Cornish granite is rightly famous and I'm sure you'll have a blast.
The climbing's tough at the lower end of the grading spectrum - not necessarily technical, but when you take the style of climbing, along with the scale and some of the settings, the routes can feel a lot more challenging than their Peak counterparts.
In terms of where to go, Bosi is a classic venue, but horribly polished in places and quite forbidding: if that's your thing, then crack on, but Cornwall can be altogether more inviting. I'd echo the comments about Sennen - the ease of access and single pitch height mean it's less of an adventure than the crags - and if you've come all this way, then you might as well get an experience you can't get at home. If you have a spare half-day, Demo Route is brilliant, though.
If you're looking for a relatively friendly, multi-pitch crag with less of the crowds, with classic HS-VS routes to break yourself in, then it's Chair Ladder all the way. There are national classics like Diocese, South Face Direct and Pegasus; it's a shame about Terrier's Tooth and the rockfall, but it happens here.
St Loy is a great recommendation by Tom - make sure you park at Treverven campsite, as it cuts the walk-in by three-quarters. Cenopod Corner is a tiny gem. You could also look at Vessacks West, with a couple of brilliant corner climbs at about 5a. Fox Promontory isn't at all bad. Cribba Head is worth visiting just for Kernyck at HS and, as has already been recommended, Right Angle at Gurnard's Head is a must-do - Shark is ace, but definitely E1 and you'll need to prussik back up your an rope if you struggle with it.
As a reference for Chair Ladder, I was there with Dan Bailey of this parish today. Ask him!
If you have any problems, feel free to drop me a line.
Martin
2
In reply to Martin not maisie:
The only horrible polish I'm aware of at Bosigran is on the step down to the lower crag. There is some polish on Doorpost, but it'd nothing in comparison to some limestone crags and even the moorland granite at Sheeps tor.
The only horrible polish I'm aware of at Bosigran is on the step down to the lower crag. There is some polish on Doorpost, but it'd nothing in comparison to some limestone crags and even the moorland granite at Sheeps tor.
2
In reply to Peach276:
Check out Pordenack if you're feeling happy with sea cliffs - very, very few people there and some awesome climbing.
Check out Pordenack if you're feeling happy with sea cliffs - very, very few people there and some awesome climbing.
1
In reply to Peach276:
^^This. Got to go down the Zawn (and get out again). As Tom says, the second pitch is dreadful, but it's all about getting out of there!
The other must-visit for me is Kenidjack - it's just fantastic.
> Variety Show, HVS, The Great Zawn. TGZ at a reasonable price. 1st pitch is brilliant, 2nd pitch not so good.
^^This. Got to go down the Zawn (and get out again). As Tom says, the second pitch is dreadful, but it's all about getting out of there!
The other must-visit for me is Kenidjack - it's just fantastic.
1
In reply to Martin not maisie:
Thank you all,
I really appreciate the information, you've been great. I have a list now and lots to look forward to. It was just what I needed.
Overall, I think it could well be a place I will visit (to climb) more than once! Even more excited...
Thanks again.
Thank you all,
I really appreciate the information, you've been great. I have a list now and lots to look forward to. It was just what I needed.
Overall, I think it could well be a place I will visit (to climb) more than once! Even more excited...
Thanks again.
3
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