UKC

Dalles Inferieures De L'Envers (Lower slabs of the Envers)

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 climber_Ken 26 Jul 2015
Just back from chamonix where we used the excellent new guide book: Selected Climbs: Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles Rouges. From Vertebrate publishing.
If anyone is tempted up to the Lower Slabs of the Envers (pages 24/25) they should be aware that lower slabs of Envers can no longer be safety accessed from the Mer De Glace. The moraine is very unstable and dangerous and if you did get to the routes they now start 40-50m above the moraine. People still climb there but by abseiling in from above.
We were told this by a guide and the OHM but still went for a look only to manage absolutely no climbing that day.
 walts4 26 Jul 2015
In reply to climber_Ken:

Sorry, don't have the guide book you refer to, what sector or route does this apply to?
 jon 26 Jul 2015
OP climber_Ken 26 Jul 2015
In reply to walts4:

Crag can be seen here. Dalles Inférieures de l'E...
It's on the true left bank of Mer de Glace usually accessed from Montenvers by walking up the Glacier. Guide book is here http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7344
 funalps 27 Jul 2015
In reply to climber_Ken:

Thanks for the info. I have updated the English route descriptions on camptocamp.org for the three routes in the funalps.com "Happy Alpine" list, (on the Alpine Club site.) using the comments from the camptocamp "outings" pages.
 jon 23 Aug 2015
In reply to climber_Ken:
> If anyone is tempted up to the Lower Slabs of the Envers (pages 24/25) they should be aware that lower slabs of Envers can no longer be safety accessed from the Mer De Glace. The moraine is very unstable and dangerous and if you did get to the routes they now start 40-50m above the moraine. People still climb there but by abseiling in from above.

> We were told this by a guide and the OHM but still went for a look only to manage absolutely no climbing that day.

Well they were accessed from the bottom two days ago apparently with no trouble. The trip report says that others that day had done the same. http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/666567/en/dalles-inferieures-de-l-envers-... For what it's worth, I agree with you - it was already unpleasant in 2010 and must be more so now.

Here's my photo taken in 2010: http://imgur.com/Cx7qb5M the dotted part of the route was new following glacial retreat, the two yellow stars were new (at the time) bolts. The original starting place is shown with two arrows leading off.
And the photo from two days ago: http://www.camptocamp.org/images/666820/en/lower-part-of-the-dalles-from-cl... There's at least 30m 'new' rock showing.
Post edited at 11:37

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