UKC

I've been reading the conditions are bad this year, but have a trip planned to chamonix in september. Any reason I should commit now to any particular plan?

Thanks.

In reply to owenel:
It's best to be flexible when it comes to the Alps. We used to be so flexible that we often had to abandon them all together and bail out to the Vercors.

Seriously I don't think I've ever heard of the Cosmiques Arete being out of condition. The Triangle on the Tacul is also often OK but the descent down the normal route is another matter as it is a notorious black spot, even more so these days. I understand that it is currently recommended that the area be avoided.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:

Thanks for the response! Any other snow routes that are more likely to be in good condition that are accessible as a day trip from chamonix?

In reply to owenel:

The Petite Aiguille Verte is a short route that crosses a steep glacier and then goes up a rock ridge or can be done direct on mostly snow and ice. Unfortunately, like the Cosmiques it is likely to be very crowded.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:
Thanks, I also have a gran paradiso climb scheduled. Is that also at risk of unclimbability in september?

In reply to GridNorth:

Petite Verte is in horrendous condition at the moment. Icy and unpleasant. Carpets have been put over the snow saddle by the telepherique in an attempt to preserve some snow.
I understand the Triangle routes are all icy and much harder than usual. Very few teams even on the Cosmiques (there's a first!)
To the OP; The Domes de Miages are still doable but rapidly deteriorating. Icy, narrower ridges than usual, some crevasses and bergshrunds opening up. For snow plods I suggest you go elsewhere this year or if it has to be Cham go for the routes in good condition - mostly rock routes.

In reply to GridNorth:

Sorry have to correct you there. One August night I set off from the Cosmiques hut to do the arête, when it started raining. Decided to call discretion the better part of valour and climbed back into sleeping bag. Some other folks who didn't turn back had a very bad (terminal) experience due to high temps causing instability.

IMHO There's so much good stuff to do nearby - don't take big risks for a route that wouldn't be much fun anyway.

Anyone know the condition of gran paradiso and the monte rosa routes (from italy)

In reply to owenel:

Hi,

Yes we went up it a couple of weeks ago. We went up to the Chabod hut on day one and then down to the Emanuele hut on the way back down to the valley. We had looked at doing the NE face but there was no snow so it would be climbing the 12 or so pitches on bullet hard ice and we didn't have the equipment if we needed to back off.
The regular route up from the Chabod was good though- a few large crevasses which needed to be carefully negotiated and we were on the top. it was quite busy- at least you should have most of the mountain to yourself in September.
Have fun- and the campsite at the roadhead back in the valley is really nice too. Good spot to visit for sure.

cheers
Jez

In reply to Pbob:
I think you are taking me a bit too literally there. Of course it's not in condition in the rain or in a snow storm or a thunder storm but in "normal" circumstances when you would consider going climbing, I have never known it out of condition.

Al

In reply to owenel:

by September there is a chance the highest snow routes will be coming back into condition again so don't write things off yet, but certainly glacial approaches will be dodgy