UKC

Hi. I see this is graded a Diff. What parts of the route require a rope and what can be scrambled without? I think Tower Gap should be OK with a rope (...having watched two crossings of it on youtube). What about the Douglas Boulder and descending into Douglas Gap: does that descent require an abseil or is it an OK downclimb?

In reply to Flinticus:
Depends entirely on the skill /experience of the climbers, prevailing conditions, and other factors. Most of the terrain on the main ridge is actually grade 2-3 scrambling with only short sections of harder climbing. Tower Ridge is, however, unusually long and committing for a UK route and (IMO) more serious than the vast majority of scrambles.

When I climbed it a few years back, we only used a rope for Tower Gap (and only a single sling as an anchor, no other gear) but were very glad of it. I gather rockfall since has made the step down a little more tricky. I haven't done the Douglas Boulder so can't comment on that.

In reply to Flinticus:

As Only a hill mentioned it totally depends on your experience and confidence as to what sections you want to rope up at. If you are also doing the Douglas Boulder via one of the VDiff's you'll probably want a rope and a light rack.

There is usually in situ tat at the top of the boulder that you can use to abb into the Douglas Gap, but as ever its best taking your own as its not guaranteed to be there and could be in bad condition.

In reply to Flinticus:

Not sure how the step across the gap is shown on You Tube, it is fairly straight forward, once you get down into that position, which is the bit that the rope is handy, but for me, the step just out of reach for me to reach out, lean over and still maintain my balance, so you just have to go for it and step across (unless you are exceptionally tall with a long reach.) Other than that the Ridge is very straightforward (in reasonable conditions) When I went up, it was easy enough in very pleasant weather , but 20 mins later the group behind us got a hailstone squall, and were trying to downclimb and re ascend !

I've not done the boulder.

In reply to Flinticus:

Having done it in (unforecast) torrential rain, we were quite glad of the rope / light rack on a few sections. In the dry I'd imagine it to be a doddle! Not done the boulder.

Well, if I do go for it, it will be on a cherry picked summerish day with a good stable high pressure system, so a long dry day. Not gonna rock up in any old weather. Probably camp at the base and get an early morning start.

In reply to Flinticus:

Have done Tower Ridge as an OK big boots day in less than perfect dampish weather. I would treat any route on the Douglas Boulder as a proper multi pitch rock climb requiring nice dry rock.

In reply to Flinticus:

I've done Tower Ridge but missed the Douglas Boulder. If you choose to do the same, I would say that the hardest part of the entire route is climbing out of the Douglas Gap, so a good stopper to prevent potentially getting very high where a retreat could be long and tiresome. I'm 6 foot and found that I could drop my legs into Tower Gap and reach the bottom or at least some propped up rocks there with my feet, without having to let go of the top with my hands. I did the route in very dry conditions in September one year, see my logbook for details.

Which guide book / site would have the best description of the route? As a summer undertaking.

In reply to Flinticus:

Dan has a good description in Scotland's Mountain Ridges.

In reply to Flinticus:

Did Tower Ridge in August 1986 in perfect summer conditions. I knew it was only a Diff with the Great Tower at V/Diff but I hired a guide because of route finding on the 2,000ft route. We climbed the Douglas Boulder direct from its base to its rounded summit, joyful to find in-cut holds thank goodness. On the Ridge proper, I asked the guide how he knew which way the route went. he replied, "Stick to the crest of the Ridge, and follow the crampon scratch marks."
We didn`t bother with the Eastern Traverse at the Great Tower ( more of a winter variation) but climbed the Tower direct, a straight V/Diff with fantastic scenery and views. I was roped down into tower Gap and walked across several steps to the other side unable (scared) to look down. The flat slabs on the walk across Tower Gap are aprox 1 metre wide. From the far side of Tower Gap a rightward sloping shelf (undetectable under snow conditions) leads up to the summit plateau. Absolutely fantastic.