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When it comes to anything BUT climbing shoes I'm pretty basic. One pair of trainers, one pair of shoes. Replace when they completely fall apart. That's me.
However they're falling apart extra quick now because my bouldering has increased and I'm using my every-day trainers when I'm out and about at crags, clambering over rocks, stomping through muddy fields until I can find somewhere comfy to sit down and slot my climbing shoes on.
So I've decided I probably need a pair of approach shoes, something tough, closer to trainer than boot, that's capable of some very easy climbing (not that I boulder hard, v2/3 with the odd soft v4) and also look ok, as I'll be using them out and about round town too. Waterproofing isn't super important but would be handy.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I've had a quick look through this article (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7334) and was tempted by the Scarpa - Crux.
However they're falling apart extra quick now because my bouldering has increased and I'm using my every-day trainers when I'm out and about at crags, clambering over rocks, stomping through muddy fields until I can find somewhere comfy to sit down and slot my climbing shoes on.
So I've decided I probably need a pair of approach shoes, something tough, closer to trainer than boot, that's capable of some very easy climbing (not that I boulder hard, v2/3 with the odd soft v4) and also look ok, as I'll be using them out and about round town too. Waterproofing isn't super important but would be handy.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I've had a quick look through this article (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7334) and was tempted by the Scarpa - Crux.
In reply to Kieran_John:
Needle Sports are selling off the old version of Salewa Wildfire at a reduced price. I was very impressed with mine. They only have 8.5 and 9 left in stock though.
Needle Sports are selling off the old version of Salewa Wildfire at a reduced price. I was very impressed with mine. They only have 8.5 and 9 left in stock though.
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In reply to Kieran_John:
The 5.10 Camp Four
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6889 (I have the previous version, as have several of my friends).
Don't get the 5.10 guide tennie unless you want to die on steep wet grass slopes: it's designed for sunny California granite, not the UK.
The 5.10 Camp Four
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6889 (I have the previous version, as have several of my friends).
Don't get the 5.10 guide tennie unless you want to die on steep wet grass slopes: it's designed for sunny California granite, not the UK.
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In reply to Kieran_John:
If you want something more trainer like then Addidas Terrex are fairly inexpensive if you shop around for past season models. You can usually get them around half price(approx £60). They come in low and mid and possibly I saw a high ankle style once.An excellent shoe if the fit suits you. If you get the muted colour styles of say the Swift they are good for general mooch around trainers. They have an excellent sole and are ok for scrambling but you wouldn't want to even boulder easy probs in them (you shouldn't anyway due to having gritty shoes). There is one called the Solo that has a smeary type C4 area on the sole if you really wanted it.
http://www.adidas.co.uk/terrex-shoes
I honestly think more people don't wear them b/c they aren't seen as a bona fide outdoor brand.
I
If you want something more trainer like then Addidas Terrex are fairly inexpensive if you shop around for past season models. You can usually get them around half price(approx £60). They come in low and mid and possibly I saw a high ankle style once.An excellent shoe if the fit suits you. If you get the muted colour styles of say the Swift they are good for general mooch around trainers. They have an excellent sole and are ok for scrambling but you wouldn't want to even boulder easy probs in them (you shouldn't anyway due to having gritty shoes). There is one called the Solo that has a smeary type C4 area on the sole if you really wanted it.
http://www.adidas.co.uk/terrex-shoes
I honestly think more people don't wear them b/c they aren't seen as a bona fide outdoor brand.
I
In reply to Kieran_John:
5:10 Insights are my weapon of choice. My first pair have seen me through everything from city sight seeing, easy grade climbs, mountain climbing and walking as well as general day to day use and gardening, still going (though split in places after 8 years of abuse). Cannot recommend enough.
Though it think they are discontinued and now replaced with Camp 4's. The camp 4' look a little chunky for my taste.
5:10 Insights are my weapon of choice. My first pair have seen me through everything from city sight seeing, easy grade climbs, mountain climbing and walking as well as general day to day use and gardening, still going (though split in places after 8 years of abuse). Cannot recommend enough.
Though it think they are discontinued and now replaced with Camp 4's. The camp 4' look a little chunky for my taste.
In reply to Kieran_John:
I've got 5.10 Camp 4's and love them. They are dropping to bits but I can't bring myself to part with them. They are comfy and sticky even on wet rock. I also have a pair of Sportiva Boulder X but I always seem to reach for the camp 4's.
Al
I've got 5.10 Camp 4's and love them. They are dropping to bits but I can't bring myself to part with them. They are comfy and sticky even on wet rock. I also have a pair of Sportiva Boulder X but I always seem to reach for the camp 4's.
Al
In reply to Kieran_John:
I've got the arcteryx acrux and they are great. I didn't pay anywhere near the retail price though, but if you are feeling plush they are really comfy out of the box and climb really well. I used them on a trip to Poland the other week and bouldered v2-3 in them, f5 sport and did a 16km mountain walk in them.
I've got the arcteryx acrux and they are great. I didn't pay anywhere near the retail price though, but if you are feeling plush they are really comfy out of the box and climb really well. I used them on a trip to Poland the other week and bouldered v2-3 in them, f5 sport and did a 16km mountain walk in them.
In reply to Kieran_John:
another vote for 5.0 Camp 4. The latest version are even better and much lighter; enough to be ok clipped to back of harness. Another important benefit for me is a really good heel cup which feels very supportive on scree and the like.
another vote for 5.0 Camp 4. The latest version are even better and much lighter; enough to be ok clipped to back of harness. Another important benefit for me is a really good heel cup which feels very supportive on scree and the like.
In reply to Kieran_John:
Well, thanks a bunch guys, I've gone from thinking about two shoes to considering half a dozen now
Well, thanks a bunch guys, I've gone from thinking about two shoes to considering half a dozen now
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In reply to Kieran_John:
To those recommending the Camp Four, do you guys have the new or old version? Seems to have changed, opinion varies but maybe not for the better?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6889
To those recommending the Camp Four, do you guys have the new or old version? Seems to have changed, opinion varies but maybe not for the better?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=6889
In reply to andy.smythe:
Plus one for these. I picked up a pair fairly recently and they have been very confidence inspiring on rock. Not so hot on wet grass, mud etc but that's because the tread isn't very deep.
Plus one for these. I picked up a pair fairly recently and they have been very confidence inspiring on rock. Not so hot on wet grass, mud etc but that's because the tread isn't very deep.
In reply to Kieran_John:
What rock shoes do you wear? I can't wear 5-10 shoes because of the shape and found five tennies a horrible fit, and rubbish quality. Sportiva hypers are nice to climb in but a bit high at the ankle
What rock shoes do you wear? I can't wear 5-10 shoes because of the shape and found five tennies a horrible fit, and rubbish quality. Sportiva hypers are nice to climb in but a bit high at the ankle
In reply to Kieran_John:
As with a new pair of rock boots, you'll find that there's infinite amount of choice out there!
As a tight fisted northern monkey, I went for price.
Rock and run happened to have the scarpa vitamins on sale from about 140 to 60. I haven't put them through much yet, but they're comfy, well adjustable, have a vibram sole, and are alright for scrambling.
As with a new pair of rock boots, you'll find that there's infinite amount of choice out there!
As a tight fisted northern monkey, I went for price.
Rock and run happened to have the scarpa vitamins on sale from about 140 to 60. I haven't put them through much yet, but they're comfy, well adjustable, have a vibram sole, and are alright for scrambling.
In reply to Tomtom:
Price is most definitely a factor, and I'm tempted by the camp four, especially through that crag x link for the old version at £85.
Rock shoes, I've got a few. Current main pair are some pink EB (forget the model), along with some horrendous smelling but comfy defys for longer sessions that involve moving about a bit. I did have a pair of 5.10 verdes (they're the green right?) and they fit like a glove until I wore the toe through. I am not a graceful climber.
Price is most definitely a factor, and I'm tempted by the camp four, especially through that crag x link for the old version at £85.
Rock shoes, I've got a few. Current main pair are some pink EB (forget the model), along with some horrendous smelling but comfy defys for longer sessions that involve moving about a bit. I did have a pair of 5.10 verdes (they're the green right?) and they fit like a glove until I wore the toe through. I am not a graceful climber.
In reply to Kieran_John:
The review seems to be saying the new version seems less substantial but will last as least as long as the old ones??
I've had both, the new ones are even better
The review seems to be saying the new version seems less substantial but will last as least as long as the old ones??
I've had both, the new ones are even better
In reply to Kieran_John:
http://www.rockrun.com/scarpa-vitamin
They had a full set of sizes when I bought mine, but looks like the sale has stripped their stock.
http://www.rockrun.com/scarpa-vitamin
They had a full set of sizes when I bought mine, but looks like the sale has stripped their stock.
In reply to Kieran_John:
After three painful days of trekking in Salomon boots that no longer seem to fit my feet (dunno, go figure) I gave up on them and walked another day in a knackered pair of loose Birkenstocks. Three days in the Pyrenees then beckoned, and I had to get something. There were three shops in town (Ax-les-Thermes) and the choice wasn't great, but I plumped
for Kimberfeel Chogoris
http://www.snowuniverse.com/kimberfeel-chogori-p11147.html
I'd never heard of the make, let alone the model, but they seem well made, have a Vibram sole and are very comfortable. Salomons and Inov8s just don't fit me.
I paid 85 euros.
After three painful days of trekking in Salomon boots that no longer seem to fit my feet (dunno, go figure) I gave up on them and walked another day in a knackered pair of loose Birkenstocks. Three days in the Pyrenees then beckoned, and I had to get something. There were three shops in town (Ax-les-Thermes) and the choice wasn't great, but I plumped
for Kimberfeel Chogoris
http://www.snowuniverse.com/kimberfeel-chogori-p11147.html
I'd never heard of the make, let alone the model, but they seem well made, have a Vibram sole and are very comfortable. Salomons and Inov8s just don't fit me.
I paid 85 euros.
In reply to Tomtom:
Bah, no (tiny) EU40s left or I'd have jumped at them for £60. Thanks anyway!
Kevin: I got the impression from a couple of reviews that the new Camp 4's weren't quite as decent on rock?
Bah, no (tiny) EU40s left or I'd have jumped at them for £60. Thanks anyway!
Kevin: I got the impression from a couple of reviews that the new Camp 4's weren't quite as decent on rock?
In reply to Kieran_John:
I've found that whilst comfy the scarpa Crux tends to wear out a bit too quickly.
I've found that whilst comfy the scarpa Crux tends to wear out a bit too quickly.
In reply to Kieran_John:
Snow and Rock have Camp 4s at £79. Not a bargain, but I've hardly seen them on special anywhere. The tread is very knobbly, so great for steep grass/choss. The rubber is very grippy. There's a goretex lined version, but they're a bit more. They're quite wide fitting, but certainly comfy for me.
Snow and Rock have Camp 4s at £79. Not a bargain, but I've hardly seen them on special anywhere. The tread is very knobbly, so great for steep grass/choss. The rubber is very grippy. There's a goretex lined version, but they're a bit more. They're quite wide fitting, but certainly comfy for me.
In reply to Kieran_John:
Scarpa Mojito GTX, although pricey (£125) are easily the best approach shoes I have ever had. I used to get through approach shoes in about 9 months because the uppers split or fell apart, but not these.
I bought my first pair of Mojitos about 18 months ago and have worn them pretty continuously ever since. The chunky Vibram sole is now almost completely worn out but the uppers are still perfect and amazingly they remain reasonably waterproof.
The standard Mojito shoe is essentially the same except that it is not waterproof. However, its only £85.
Recommend.
Scarpa Mojito GTX, although pricey (£125) are easily the best approach shoes I have ever had. I used to get through approach shoes in about 9 months because the uppers split or fell apart, but not these.
I bought my first pair of Mojitos about 18 months ago and have worn them pretty continuously ever since. The chunky Vibram sole is now almost completely worn out but the uppers are still perfect and amazingly they remain reasonably waterproof.
The standard Mojito shoe is essentially the same except that it is not waterproof. However, its only £85.
Recommend.
In reply to Kieran_John:
Settled on the 'new' 5.10 Camp 4 after seeing the old design in-store today and not being that keen on it. I like the look of the new one though.
Now to find a store that actually stocks it so I can try it on before buying it (people still do that right?). Went to a couple of outdoor stores in Leeds today with no luck!
Settled on the 'new' 5.10 Camp 4 after seeing the old design in-store today and not being that keen on it. I like the look of the new one though.
Now to find a store that actually stocks it so I can try it on before buying it (people still do that right?). Went to a couple of outdoor stores in Leeds today with no luck!
In reply to Kieran_John:
I use 5.10 guides and find them really comfortable. Have no problem climbing about in them or scrambling. If I wanted something that felt a bit more comfortable when climbing I'd go with Sportiva Gandas which are really incredible shoes.
I use 5.10 guides and find them really comfortable. Have no problem climbing about in them or scrambling. If I wanted something that felt a bit more comfortable when climbing I'd go with Sportiva Gandas which are really incredible shoes.
In reply to Kieran_John:
I have the Camp 4 older version. They feel more like a low cut walking boot than a trainer; I find them great for long moderate alpine rock routes but much prefer running shoes for general mooching around.
The new version is different though and may be less clunky.
I have the Camp 4 older version. They feel more like a low cut walking boot than a trainer; I find them great for long moderate alpine rock routes but much prefer running shoes for general mooching around.
The new version is different though and may be less clunky.
In reply to Kieran_John:
Im selling a brand new pair of salewa wildfire gtx size 10 if your interested.
Im selling a brand new pair of salewa wildfire gtx size 10 if your interested.
In reply to colin struthers:
I got the non lined version, love them for summer. Really comfy and tough as anything. Apart from being a bit mucky mine are as good as new.
Solomons for winter and the wet.
I got the non lined version, love them for summer. Really comfy and tough as anything. Apart from being a bit mucky mine are as good as new.
Solomons for winter and the wet.
In reply to andy.smythe:
Cheers Andy, but I'm a 7.
Just trying to hunt down a store that has some stock of 5.10 Camp 4's, or the Scarpa Crux (They get wife approval for being something she'd be seen with me wearing) and see how they fit. Very few stores in Leeds seem to have them!
Cheers Andy, but I'm a 7.
Just trying to hunt down a store that has some stock of 5.10 Camp 4's, or the Scarpa Crux (They get wife approval for being something she'd be seen with me wearing) and see how they fit. Very few stores in Leeds seem to have them!
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In reply to prog99:
Well, all the advice in the world can't compete with how cheap I am, so I've been swayed from the Camp Fours by these cheap Crux's. Ordered a pair, thanks for that!
Well, all the advice in the world can't compete with how cheap I am, so I've been swayed from the Camp Fours by these cheap Crux's. Ordered a pair, thanks for that!
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