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Anyone been recently on the mountain?
I will be climbing one of the days next week. Original plan was to do Trois Monts route from Augili du Midi station and to come down on the Gouter ridge. But as Grand Collar is very unstable now I'm considering to go back the same way.
How is it looking?
Post edited at 00:52
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In reply to nutme:
Very changeable at the moment. We summited on Aug 6th via the Gouter Route (Tete Rousse to Tete Rousse). The Gouter hut was closed for two weeks before due to warm weather and poor conditions on the Grand Couloir.
Some snow fall and cold nights re-opened the hut for a few days but has since closed again.
Fingers crossed for some snow and cold nights over 3000m and you should be ok. Sun hits the Aiguille du Gouter early afternoon so conditions go downhill after that.
Have a good trip!
Very changeable at the moment. We summited on Aug 6th via the Gouter Route (Tete Rousse to Tete Rousse). The Gouter hut was closed for two weeks before due to warm weather and poor conditions on the Grand Couloir.
Some snow fall and cold nights re-opened the hut for a few days but has since closed again.
Fingers crossed for some snow and cold nights over 3000m and you should be ok. Sun hits the Aiguille du Gouter early afternoon so conditions go downhill after that.
Have a good trip!
In reply to Ben_Climber:
Is the summit ridge much icier and narrower than usual? (As is the case with the Domes des Miage). Also, were there more apparent crevasses due to the reduced snow cover?
Thanks!
Is the summit ridge much icier and narrower than usual? (As is the case with the Domes des Miage). Also, were there more apparent crevasses due to the reduced snow cover?
Thanks!
In reply to Squidward Tenticles:
Everything from the Gouter hut up was fine. Snow conditions good on the Dome du Gouter and Bosses Ridge.
Main condition issues on Mont Blanc seem to be the Grand Couloir. Once you hit the snow at about 3800m risks didn't seem any greater than usual conditions.
Everything from the Gouter hut up was fine. Snow conditions good on the Dome du Gouter and Bosses Ridge.
Main condition issues on Mont Blanc seem to be the Grand Couloir. Once you hit the snow at about 3800m risks didn't seem any greater than usual conditions.
In reply to Ben_Climber:
Thanks!
I have a booking for the Gouter at the end of the month and was about to cancel it, but I'll hang on now to see if they open it again.
Thanks!
I have a booking for the Gouter at the end of the month and was about to cancel it, but I'll hang on now to see if they open it again.
In reply to nutme:
I also summited on the 6th via the Gouter route. Not many parties were doing the Trois Monts route last week: the traverse of Maudit sounds very icy and exposed at the moment, and the one party I did speak to that had done it sounded like they wish they hadn't. I understand there's ladders now across the Bergscrund on the Tacul.
As Ben mentioned, snow conditions on the Gouter route were fine, but the level of stonefall in the Grand Couloir was a bit scary (particularly once the sun is on it) and we witnessed an absolutely massive rockfall on the other side of the valley. From speaking to the guide posted to warn climbers about the route, they seem as worried by the potential for a big rockfall as by the ordinary stonefall risk in the couloir.
I also summited on the 6th via the Gouter route. Not many parties were doing the Trois Monts route last week: the traverse of Maudit sounds very icy and exposed at the moment, and the one party I did speak to that had done it sounded like they wish they hadn't. I understand there's ladders now across the Bergscrund on the Tacul.
As Ben mentioned, snow conditions on the Gouter route were fine, but the level of stonefall in the Grand Couloir was a bit scary (particularly once the sun is on it) and we witnessed an absolutely massive rockfall on the other side of the valley. From speaking to the guide posted to warn climbers about the route, they seem as worried by the potential for a big rockfall as by the ordinary stonefall risk in the couloir.
In reply to nutme:
Isn't this what Guides use on nervous clients?
> But as Grand Collar is very unstable now I'm considering to go back the same way.
Isn't this what Guides use on nervous clients?
In reply to nutme:
I summited on the 6th August via the Gouter route. I originally tried the trois monts route but didn't like the look of conditions on Mont Maudit (nor did the majority of teams that day) so turned back. The gouter route seemed fine apart from the couloir which was very active in the warm temperatures. Rockfall was frequent even at night.
I summited on the 6th August via the Gouter route. I originally tried the trois monts route but didn't like the look of conditions on Mont Maudit (nor did the majority of teams that day) so turned back. The gouter route seemed fine apart from the couloir which was very active in the warm temperatures. Rockfall was frequent even at night.
In reply to nutme:
Grand couloir is not just dangerous in the warm temperatures - there've bee a few accidents (and fatalities) early in the morning too. People have been crossing early as the the rocks are frozen in place, this isn't good logic - meltwater pools behind rocks and freezes in the night, hence the rockfall in the night after the ice expands.
Gouter is, and has been, a daft idea for a while. Just because the hut has reopened does not mean it is safer.
Grand couloir is not just dangerous in the warm temperatures - there've bee a few accidents (and fatalities) early in the morning too. People have been crossing early as the the rocks are frozen in place, this isn't good logic - meltwater pools behind rocks and freezes in the night, hence the rockfall in the night after the ice expands.
Gouter is, and has been, a daft idea for a while. Just because the hut has reopened does not mean it is safer.
Post edited at 16:27
In reply to nutme:
Lots of folk heading to Mt B this morning (Friday 21st), presumably coming back the same way. Good track as far as we could see (the col to the right of Mont Maudit looking up). There is a steep bit getting across a crevasse on the route up Tacul - two axes useful, but they may put a ladder across it soon....
For what it's worth, we climbed the Left Edge Route on the Triangle today - great conditions and well tracked now (one other party behind us). Really surprised to see how quickly the recent snow has brought the face back into condition - Cont Maz, and even the Chere all looked possible (tracks heading to the base of the Chere). Might post some pics on Camp2Camp later....
Lots of folk heading to Mt B this morning (Friday 21st), presumably coming back the same way. Good track as far as we could see (the col to the right of Mont Maudit looking up). There is a steep bit getting across a crevasse on the route up Tacul - two axes useful, but they may put a ladder across it soon....
For what it's worth, we climbed the Left Edge Route on the Triangle today - great conditions and well tracked now (one other party behind us). Really surprised to see how quickly the recent snow has brought the face back into condition - Cont Maz, and even the Chere all looked possible (tracks heading to the base of the Chere). Might post some pics on Camp2Camp later....
So it worked. We went on 20th Aug. Conditions were good.
Maudit was steep for AD. Took us a bit of time to get up. As we spoke to few other parties they confirmed it was a bit more technical than usual.
Descending via Gouter route was actually a bad idea. We ended up at crossing Couloir at 2 PM and rockfall was very active. A lot of people waiting on both sides. Cable is ripped apart. That is left is coiled on both sides. Most groups as well as ourselfs run one by one without roping up.
Post edited at 05:04
In reply to nutme:
Well I trust by now everyone is suitably wary of the Gouter route, or at any rate the couloir.
Not sure why you would choose to DESCEND by that route though.
Well I trust by now everyone is suitably wary of the Gouter route, or at any rate the couloir.
Not sure why you would choose to DESCEND by that route though.
For a traverse. Most of the time I would go for different route down. Not a big fan of going back the same way.
In reply to Simon4:
One reason would be a greater fear of the Cosmiques hut warden than the couloir. As may develop, for example, if your (rather eccentric) partner had been caught walking to the internal hut toilet in his crampons.
> Not sure why you would choose to DESCEND by that route though.
One reason would be a greater fear of the Cosmiques hut warden than the couloir. As may develop, for example, if your (rather eccentric) partner had been caught walking to the internal hut toilet in his crampons.
Post edited at 10:11
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In reply to MG:
I was there the first week the Cosmiques opened, still smelled of new wood... 2:00 am, one idiot marched back in, through the kit room and into the reception area leaving a perforated set of footprints behind him. There was a mini nuclear explosion and he was propelled back through the kit room, through the door and booted (literally) down the steps and onto the snow...
I was there the first week the Cosmiques opened, still smelled of new wood... 2:00 am, one idiot marched back in, through the kit room and into the reception area leaving a perforated set of footprints behind him. There was a mini nuclear explosion and he was propelled back through the kit room, through the door and booted (literally) down the steps and onto the snow...
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In reply to MG:
I believe (it may even have been Jon who said it), that the warden at the Schreckhorn hut is FAR more terrifying than anything on the mountain!
I believe (it may even have been Jon who said it), that the warden at the Schreckhorn hut is FAR more terrifying than anything on the mountain!
Post edited at 10:44
In reply to MG:
Actually I did once descend via the Grand Mullets route, finishing up at the Plan de l'Aiguilles station, so went nowhere near the Midi or Cosmiques.
Not sure it is particularly recommended, but it worked fine on that occasion.
Actually I did once descend via the Grand Mullets route, finishing up at the Plan de l'Aiguilles station, so went nowhere near the Midi or Cosmiques.
Not sure it is particularly recommended, but it worked fine on that occasion.
In reply to jon:
That sounds similar. I had already raised the warden's ire by putting my crampons on two steps inside the boot room. I explained how desole I was and the warden walked off to bump into **** coming back from the toilet. We left. Quickly.
**** was unpredictable in a number of ways - he also drove his Range Rover over Arthur's Seat in Edinburgh one night (this belongs to the Queen, and driving on it is not the done thing). Strangely he was/is in his sixties, so not a youthful tearaway.
That sounds similar. I had already raised the warden's ire by putting my crampons on two steps inside the boot room. I explained how desole I was and the warden walked off to bump into **** coming back from the toilet. We left. Quickly.
**** was unpredictable in a number of ways - he also drove his Range Rover over Arthur's Seat in Edinburgh one night (this belongs to the Queen, and driving on it is not the done thing). Strangely he was/is in his sixties, so not a youthful tearaway.
Post edited at 11:08
In reply to Simon4:
As a slight hijack, (not that it matters now as nutme is still alive... ) yes said gardien is far more terrifying. He even turned these people away - even when they had the common decency to phone in advance to see if they could stay at 7:45pm after being exhausted taking longer than expected on the Lauteraarhorn > Schreckhorn traverse from the Aar bivouac. http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/450007/fr/schreckhorn-traversee-lauteraar... Yes I know I've posted that before!
> I believe (it may even have been Jon who said it), that the warden at the Schreckhorn hut is FAR more terrifying than anything on the mountain!
As a slight hijack, (not that it matters now as nutme is still alive... ) yes said gardien is far more terrifying. He even turned these people away - even when they had the common decency to phone in advance to see if they could stay at 7:45pm after being exhausted taking longer than expected on the Lauteraarhorn > Schreckhorn traverse from the Aar bivouac. http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/450007/fr/schreckhorn-traversee-lauteraar... Yes I know I've posted that before!
Post edited at 11:54
In reply to jon:
It is shocking that in some Swiss huts, the grizzled, grumpy, miserable old Swiss men are now being replaced by pretty, friendly, helpful girls, the Mischabel hut is a conspicuous example of this dreadful trend, a despicable breakdown of fine old mountaineering traditions.
I mentioned this fact to one "vigorous" young British climber this Summer, he immediately inquired about which huts I was referring to, what routes could be done from them and how to get to them. I was impressed with the care he was taking to avoid inadvertently arriving in such decadent, disreputable, un-Swiss places. On the other hand my partner in an Engandine trip seemed to specifically make a point of visiting the Boval hut as often as possible to see the waitresses/guardiennes there, despite being old enough and ugly enough to know better.
It is shocking that in some Swiss huts, the grizzled, grumpy, miserable old Swiss men are now being replaced by pretty, friendly, helpful girls, the Mischabel hut is a conspicuous example of this dreadful trend, a despicable breakdown of fine old mountaineering traditions.
I mentioned this fact to one "vigorous" young British climber this Summer, he immediately inquired about which huts I was referring to, what routes could be done from them and how to get to them. I was impressed with the care he was taking to avoid inadvertently arriving in such decadent, disreputable, un-Swiss places. On the other hand my partner in an Engandine trip seemed to specifically make a point of visiting the Boval hut as often as possible to see the waitresses/guardiennes there, despite being old enough and ugly enough to know better.
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In reply to Simon4:
Yes, I see your point -
"At first, the mountains are far away, but with every step on the path up to the hut they come closer. At the beginning the path is pleasant, only at the end does it steepen. And then suddenly your are right in the centre of things and you feel the breath of the high mountains. The Swiss flag is a speck of red amid the icy gleam of the Bernina glaciers."
----
Well worth a day trip.
Highlights: Fascinating view of the panorama from the terrace of the hut. Alpine roses, which fringe the path up to the hut, bloom in early summer. "
Seems like it might be a wasted effort to actually go climbing.
Yes, I see your point -
"At first, the mountains are far away, but with every step on the path up to the hut they come closer. At the beginning the path is pleasant, only at the end does it steepen. And then suddenly your are right in the centre of things and you feel the breath of the high mountains. The Swiss flag is a speck of red amid the icy gleam of the Bernina glaciers."
----
Well worth a day trip.
Highlights: Fascinating view of the panorama from the terrace of the hut. Alpine roses, which fringe the path up to the hut, bloom in early summer. "
Seems like it might be a wasted effort to actually go climbing.
In reply to Simon4:
I highly recommend the Dom girls. Hopefully the Swiss epidemic of beauty will spread into France, but that may destroy the entire cosmic order of the universe.
I highly recommend the Dom girls. Hopefully the Swiss epidemic of beauty will spread into France, but that may destroy the entire cosmic order of the universe.
In reply to glaramara:
They speak favourably of you too.
Most of the beauties to be found in Swiss huts are German or Dutch or the like - even if Swiss girls cannot attain the heights of miserable pointless obstructiveness achieved by grizzled old hut guardians, they are scarcely so likely to completely reverse the national character by being friendly and helpful. As for the French, you will be suggesting next that French guides will become modest and considerate. Or that water will become dry and bricks blow away in the breeze.
> I highly recommend the Dom girls.
They speak favourably of you too.
> Hopefully the Swiss epidemic of beauty will spread into France, but that may destroy the entire cosmic order of the universe.
Most of the beauties to be found in Swiss huts are German or Dutch or the like - even if Swiss girls cannot attain the heights of miserable pointless obstructiveness achieved by grizzled old hut guardians, they are scarcely so likely to completely reverse the national character by being friendly and helpful. As for the French, you will be suggesting next that French guides will become modest and considerate. Or that water will become dry and bricks blow away in the breeze.
Post edited at 14:01
In reply to nutme:
Some interesting photos attached to this trip report of Mont Blanc (up Gouter and down Trois Monts). http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/670957/fr/mont-blanc-arete-des-bosses
Some interesting photos attached to this trip report of Mont Blanc (up Gouter and down Trois Monts). http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/670957/fr/mont-blanc-arete-des-bosses
In reply to Simon4:
I've heard that can be quite hairy.
> Actually I did once descend via the Grand Mullets route...
I've heard that can be quite hairy.
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In reply to planetmarshall:
I only did it once, and it was fine.
Not sure I would recommend it as a general thing, but it was fairly straightforward on that occasion. I believe in ascent it has a significant feel of serac collapse (but so does the 3 monts route, as is by now very well known).
It does also get you to the Plan de l'Aiguille level, not the Midi.
The main Italian descent by the Gonella hut is pretty long and I was told of a significant rock-fall incident there as well. I suppose when push comes to shove, there is no "safe" descent of MB, but the more I hear about the Gouter, or rather the couloir (never having done it), the less I like the sound of it.
I only did it once, and it was fine.
Not sure I would recommend it as a general thing, but it was fairly straightforward on that occasion. I believe in ascent it has a significant feel of serac collapse (but so does the 3 monts route, as is by now very well known).
It does also get you to the Plan de l'Aiguille level, not the Midi.
The main Italian descent by the Gonella hut is pretty long and I was told of a significant rock-fall incident there as well. I suppose when push comes to shove, there is no "safe" descent of MB, but the more I hear about the Gouter, or rather the couloir (never having done it), the less I like the sound of it.
Post edited at 11:41
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In reply to jon:
I can recommend the Slovakian lasses who run the Weissbadner hutte in the Silvretta. Get in their good
books and you'll end up drinking their homemade shots with them!
I can recommend the Slovakian lasses who run the Weissbadner hutte in the Silvretta. Get in their good
books and you'll end up drinking their homemade shots with them!
In reply to nutme:
Anyone have anything up to date to contribute? Heading out on Sunday on what looks to be a settled forecast, SO FAR!
Anyone have anything up to date to contribute? Heading out on Sunday on what looks to be a settled forecast, SO FAR!
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