UKC

Planning to just pop into frankenjura for a day or two , where would you go if you had one day looking for easy tick routes ? North or south ? Cheers

In reply to solomonkey:

The frankenjura is a big area, if you're only there for a day or two you're probably better off just picking a couple of good looking crags and going for that. Stuff around here Bärenschlucht is probably a good bet, adjacent to a campsite and easy access (with a car) to stuff around Gobweinstein and pottenstein.

In reply to remus:

Ok , thanks for that remus , just looking for a point enter right direction , sounds like just the spot

In reply to solomonkey:

The other popular options are the campsite at Oma Eichler (opposite the Zehnerstein) and the pub/restaurant/bunkhouse in the village at the top of Rohtelfels, both of which are really good.

JW

In reply to solomonkey:

Check the weather if it's only a day or 2, there's been a heat wave in Germany, Frankfurt hit 40C. It's breaking now but rain to come.

Along the road from remus' suggestion is this place

Marienthaler Wand

Plus in Pottenstein you can find a guidebook for less than the UK prices.

In reply to John Ww:

Ok thanks for that John , don't suppose you know of any crags with some easy routes too , I'm looking as one of my friends is good on 4/ 5's maybe a few 6a's , it would be good if he could get a few leads done but don't know where to head , thanks again , col

In reply to winhill:

Thanks for the heads up , I'll hold out till I get there on the book ,
Do you know if pottinsten is in the North or the south of frankenjura , cheers col

In reply to solomonkey:

Pottenstein is on road 470 to the West of Pegnitz, not far from the Barenslucht mentioned above by Remus (where there is a good campsite with a descent restaurant).

In reply to solomonkey:

Pottenstein should be the northern part.

In reply to solomonkey:

Easy routes can be only bolted in the loosest sense. Be careful. Guidebooks usually mark the individual bolts for you.

We found a fairly well bolted crag just up the hill from marienthalerwande - next car park up, cross the minor road and it's in the hillside up there. Name eludes me but with a guidebook that description might get you there. Alternatively the big crag next to krottenseer turm had some easy stuff. And some of the weißenstein routes were ok for bolting too.

In reply to solomonkey:
The Graischer Bleisteinwande is always a good bet, plenty of easier routes and the bolting is good. In the Franken a clipstick is generally considered a good idea especially on the easier routes but there are always plenty of sticks lying around so with a bit of finger tape you can get by.

The Northern Frankenjura is the entire area north of Nürnburg. The Southern Frankenjura is a completely different area about 1 hrs drive to the south and is around Regensburg and to the west including the Altmuhltal and Donautal.
If you buy a guide to the "Southern Frankenjura" you´ll have trouble reconciling any of the descriptions to the stuff around Nürnburg

Which guide you buy for the Northern Frankenjura is decided by whether you can read German (if you can´t then the Röker guide is the one to buy) and where you want to climb as most of the guides are in two volumes either to the north of Gößweinstein/Pottenstein and the A470 or to the south. The Bernhard Thum guide covers the whole area in one book but then it´s 1,000 pages thick.

In reply to AJM:


Neue Heimat? Safety First, Fair value, Clipsticker and Frankenplasir? 12 routes in total? It's a south facing sun trap - we were there today. The trees are numerous but largely denuded so not much shade. We got cooked.

In reply to winhill:

That sounds like the one.

In reply to solomonkey:
If I had to pick one crag, it would be Rothelfels - loads to go at in that grade range, and well bolted (well, for the Frankenjura that is). There's a new slabby section towards the left-hand side which resembles French-style sport climbing at easy 5. If you do one route, it'd be Kleiner Bar (further right) for me - given six, but is just a good solid well-protected 5, on "chicken head" type holds.

And when you've done, go to "Zur Guten Einkehr" at the top of the hill in Morschreuth - lovely!

HTH, John

In reply to AJM:

Thanks for the Reply

In reply to jimtitt:

Thanks jim , much appreciated
1000 page guide book, now we're talking

In reply to John Ww:

Thanks for that John , great help ,, all sounds good but what's at zur guten ?

In reply to solomonkey:


It´s a pub. Good food and you can camp behind it.

In reply to solomonkey:

Watch out for the areas,

Graischer Bleisteinwande and Rothelfels are in the band 2 guides although only a short 20 mins drive from the B470 areas.

Also the Roker brothers have released a band 1/2 update in May this year, which if camping or staying at Tuchersfeld, includes Intensivstation a new area with a good range of grades across 70 routes and a short walk in. Although the update is mostly in german only.

In reply to winhill:

Ok will do , we'll just be happy to get some routes ticked and maybe a little culture (beer and hopefully the crazy castle I've seen in a vid - looks like Disney Palace , don't suppose you've seen that on your travels ?

In reply to solomonkey:

That´s Neuschwanstein, Mad King Ludwigs finest effort. Its miles away from the Frankenjura down near Füssen in the south of Bavaria, about 250km.

In reply to jimtitt:

Pretty sure they have other accommodation at Zur Guten Einkehr as well - just check the website.

Also, be aware that the routes at the Barenschlucht are all bloody hard - very little (if anything) below 7 if I remember. The campsite restaurant is really good though, as is the beer and smoked trout!

HTH, JW