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Utah/Arizona bouldering destinations

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 Si dH 02 Sep 2015

I'm possibly planning a road trip with my wife around the Grand Canyon and several of the Utah national parks (Monument Valley, Canyonlands, Zion), starting and finishing in Las Vegas in September 2016. We were planning on taking 2 weeks and doing it in an RV (that being part of the experience).
Although we'll mostly be walking and sightseeing, I'm keen to hire a couple of pads and do some bouldering along the way - can anyone recommend the best places to go? No point stopping for something mediocre so I'm only interested in destinations that have good stuff across the V5-9 grade range - unless there is somewhere small with a single classic problem that I absolutely mustn't miss. Places with non-climbing stuff to do nearby for a few hours (walking or local culture) would also be ideal as my wife doesn't climb.
Any recommendations for guidebooks would also be great.
Thanks!

Si
Post edited at 22:21
ultrabumbly 02 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:
Lots and lots of places. see http://www.mountainproject.com/v/prescott-area-bouldering/105904944 for one in AZ (though the first time I went it was very unusually all covered in ice! bit of a bummer after a 900 mile drive). Prescott Valley is quite a nice little town that seemed very chilled out to me the few times I was there. Probably suitable for depositing a non climbing OH in.

My biggest tip from doing this is if you are going to be driving long distances in one go then go at least 3 to a vehicle so 1 can drive, one can sleep and one can talk to the driver as the driving is super soporific in the dark. Otherwise settle for driving less than you could if there are only 2 of you. All my guidebooks are stored in the garage but I will pull them out tomorrow and suggest some places.
Post edited at 22:33
 rpc 02 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:

I know nothing about bouldering and even less about stuff harder than v0...but this is one beautiful setting:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/big-bend-bouldering-area/105716862

OP Si dH 03 Sep 2015
In reply to ultrabumbly:

Thanks that would be awesome
 Andy Kassyk 03 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:

The US is huge. If you have only two weeks - you will spend most of the time driving especially if you aim from Las Vegas to Utah. The best bouldering is outside your planned visiting area.. Joshua Tree to the South. Bishop to the west, and places in Utah like Joes Valley and Triassic in the North. Big Bend boulders are limited with 2 good V4s (e.g. Circus Trick Lhand) and a wicked V8 called Chaos though as another poster suggested, the setting is awesome.
At Joes Valley there is nothing else to do, though the climbing is brilliant.
J tree might be a bit hot in September. There's also some nice bouldering near Red Rocks in Vegas - the Kraft boulders but not real.
Hope this helps
 andy p ross 05 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:
There's a area in Saint George called Mo's valley, you can pick up a guide in the local outdoor shop there. There is also plenty on stuff around Vegas, get the guide by Tom Moulin for South Nevada. Joes Valley is great, halfway between Salt lake and Moab. Go to Moutainproject for info, book for Joe's is out of print.
If you want any more general info drop me a line.
 chris fox 06 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:

Hey Si,
My mate from AZ is coming over Oct 4-8th, pop up for a day on the Grit and say hi. Then you'll Have a partner for any trad/bouldering when you go.
Chris
 Indy 06 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:

Just outside Las Vegas is Red Rock Canyon which is pretty epic for both bouldering and climbing (leave your non-climbing partner in Vegas). Camping/RV site is available.

Also as already mentioned DON'T underestimate the distances and the monotony of driving.
 Offwidth 06 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:
Red Rocks next to Vegas and JTree (not so, far out of the way Grand Canyon and a nice drive from Vegas via the Mojave) are beautiful parks which have world class bouldering. V5 to V8 is a bit stiff for a target range... you may get spanked.. V grades are proper out there. Bishop, which is stellar, isn't far from Vegas either and is a cool place with the High Sierra right next door.
Post edited at 11:12
 TheGeneralist 06 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:

We did a bouldering trip to Utah about 10 years ago. We didn't actually get that much from the bouldering because the skiing, boarding, crack climbing and mountain biking were so good. Why do merely absolutely amazing bouldering when you can do the best cracks, riding, mtb tracks in the world period.
But to answer your question..
Little Cottonwood Canyon. Big grantite blocks on the way to Altah/Snowbird. Very good.
Joe's Canyon, halfway between SLC and Moab. Huge sandstone area in the middle of nowhere. Perishingly cold at night. Good climbing.
Big Bend at Moab is just two solitary boulders. Great location, but seems perverse to boulder when there's so many other BesINTheWorlds nearby.

enjoy.
OP Si dH 06 Sep 2015
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks everyone (especially Chris for the offer). To answer a couple of people's questions...this isn't primarily a climbing trip and I don't want to disappear on my wife for more than 2 or 3 hours at a time, so anything more than bouldering is out and I'm looking for places I can easily stop at en route. Joes Canyon and Big Bend sound like good options. Can anyone recommend a guidebook?
Ta

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