UKC

VF Magnifici Quattro
I got out on this today, halfway up met climbers from Cornwall. This new Via Ferrata route is by Pozza di Fossa (which is not far from Canazei, roughly on the SW side of the main Dolomites). See on map https://goo.gl/maps/aTbXp

Reasons to do it:
* most difficult crux sequence of any via ferrata (so far) in the Dolomites.
* climbing in an enclosed space (but not cramped)
* not real big, either in cable-climbing (about +225 vertical meters) or overall vertical including hiking (about +630 vertical meters).
* nice hut at the top for a snack and drink.
* sheltered from the sun on a hot day.
* nice trails for approach and descent.

Drawbacks:
* dirt on the rock of much of the main cable-climbing section. And dirt on the steep sections of the trail connecting between the two cable-climbing sections.
* little opportunity for “free” climbing moves with both hands and feet directly on the rock (rather than grabbing the cable or other steel aid fixtures).
* fairly long hike/scramble (distance 750 meters) between the two cable-climbing sections.
* no sun for an early start on the cable-climbing section.

Difficulty:
The crux sequence is sustained overhanging, first with some upward moves, then a diagonally rising traverse. Also at least two other shorter overhanging sequences. The cable in these sections has reasonably closely-spaced anchor points. I’d say that someone who is “solid” getting through (French) difficulty 5c overhanging routes in an indoor climbing gym (and is clever about finding ways to rest on the cable and anchor fixtures), should be able to handle it. Or perhaps “solid” on 5b indoor overhanging is sufficient if have a third _short_ leash (say about 50 cm) with its own karabiner, for hanging and resting in the midst of a sequence.
Lots of strenuous moves grabbing the cable: gloves recommended.

Approach:
Drive the SS 48 to Pozza di Fossa. At the roundabout follow sign for Val San Nicolo, roughly SSE. After about 3.5 km (and just after restaurant Malga Crocifisso), the asphalt road forks. Take the left fork, signed “Val San Nicolo”.
. (All the climbing and hiking and the hut at the top are to the North side (climber’s left) of this road).

About another 425 meters after the fork see on the left a substantial wide flat area at the bottom of a rather wide ski trail coming down the slope above. I parked here (GPS latitude longitude approx N46.4181 E11.7258). I had seen a sign lower on the road about payment for parking, but I think the fee applies for the much larger parking area much higher up on the road.
. (Note that the hiking approach directions on the RockFax website as of August 2015 are intended for parking lower than this, so might be confusing if used from this obvious higher parking).

Hike up the asphalt road about 200 meters NE. See a small (non-wooden) bridge across the creek with a building beyond, and sign for “ferrata Magnifici 4”. Turn Left off the asphalt road, cross the bridge (lat long ~ N46.4198 E11.7279), then turn Right (NE) onto a dirt road, up at first. After about 150m it becomes a (nice) hiking trail and goes gently alongside the creek. About 300m from the bridge, the trail turns up away from the creek. Go Left at the first switchback. At the 5th switchback (N46.4227 E11.7289), with a sign “ferrata”, turn Right (E) off the main trail. Good trail goes up NE then N, gets steeper up into a vertical gully in the rock walls, to the bottom of the first Via Ferrata cable-climbing section. Approach hike has uphill about +225 vertical meters.
Note that there is some loose dirty stuff above, so if there’s another party above put helmet on immediately, and consider making preparations for cable-climbing some other place not exposed to stuff falling.

Cable-climbing:
Starts steep and strenuous, though the longer crux sequence is higher up. First cable-climbing section goes upward about +150 vertical meters. Top is at (approx N46.4246 E11.7310).

Next hiking and scrambling (with some cable hand-rails and cable protection) for distance about 750 meters NE then N, with some short downs (total uphill about +135 vertical meters). Finishing steeper to ...

Second cable-climbing section starts (approx N46.42814 E11.7325) with a short overhang, then less strenuous -- overall shorter than the first (about +75 vertical meters). It avoids some steeper walls that could have made it longer. Top is at (approx N46.4279 E11.7319).

Next traverse a short ways left (SW), then scramble up N, bushwhack across gentler grass to reach the hut Rifugio Baita Cuz [www.rifugiobaitacuz.com] (N46.4288 E11.7317).

Descent:
I followed the trail signed “Val San Nicolo” at first E and SE from hut, soon down NW and N, then roughly E to (N46.4283 E11.7453) about 1.2 km from the hut. Overall nice trail with some prettiness. The side trip to the Maelin viewpoint was worthwhile. Then SW and SE and S down to reach the asphalt road at (N46.4247 E11.7460) by the big fee-pay parking lot. Finally about 2 km W then SW down the road back to (free) parking.