UKC

Chateauvert info

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hi

has anyone climbed at Chateauvert recently? looking at going soon, a friend recommended it he said it was amazing but could be polished, that was a few years ago, wondering if it is still good or become too polished as it is meant to be a buys crag?

many thanks for any help
In reply to ecrinscollective:

> has anyone climbed at Chateauvert recently? looking at going soon, a friend recommended it he said it was amazing but could be polished, that was a few years ago, wondering if it is still good or become too polished as it is meant to be a buys crag?

Was there about 5 years ago. It was as polished then as it had been back in the late 80s but there were more routes.

It is a superb crag with brilliant routes across the grades although best in the 6c and upwards range. Plenty in the lower grades though but that is where the polish shows most.

Really easy access and I doubt it is ever too busy for you not to be able to find something to do.

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Hi Alan

thanks for the reply, I live in the briancon area so its a few hours south, we have a few days so I was think of there or malaucene/combe obscure which we went to earlier in the year and liked, Chateauvert does looks really good and I think we will pop down that way, it was the polish I was wondering about, had a few trips further south this year and come across some horrendous polish, some on venue we went to 15+ years ago and loved, I guess that the way it goes.

thanks again Rob
 full stottie 06 Oct 2015
In reply to ecrinscollective:

Its 3 years since we climbed there, but we really liked it. Don't remember polish being much of an issue (was worse at La Turbie and St. Victoire, and of course Stoney, to which it is compared because the road is at the bottom of the crag, but quite a stretch of a comparison in my opinion!), and even the lower and middle graded routes were varied and enjoyable. It was quite busy at the weekend in September when we went, but plenty to go at.

Dave
In reply to full stottie:

thanks for the info Dave

 Skyfall 06 Oct 2015
In reply to ecrinscollective:

Went a few years ago and is the best crag in that area iirc. We wished we'd spent more time there than at some of the other crags to be honest. Quite a variety of climbing.

At lower grades I would say that I prefer Combe Obscure but Chateauvert is a good option.
In reply to Skyfall:

Thanks skyfall, We liked Combe obscure to, a nice laid back venue, I am a bit broken at the moment have broken some cartalige in my hip so going slow looking for routes up to 7A, but some days its worse and then looking to have nice easier route to play on.

Cheers
 kenr 06 Oct 2015
In reply to Skyfall:
> Went a few years ago and is the best crag in that area iirc.

Well lots of new crags have been opened in recent years within an hour or two's driving from Chateauvert. Lots of less-polished rock to be explored. New guidebooks.

I think we'll need to wait a few years for larger concensus to settle on what the best crag is in the midst of new competitors.

Ken
 jon_gill1 07 Oct 2015
In reply to ecrinscollective:

Went last yeah and its as good as its been for the last 4 years I've visited!love the place and its well worth the drive!there a lot of really nice routes in the 6b/+ range that you can just climb all day long in a wonderful setting!I will be there next week!enjoy!

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