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 jethro kiernan 20 Oct 2015
looking to go with the wife to Iceland for a short trip in Jan Feb, logistically is it worth looking at hiring a car and sorting your own accommodation out or is a package going to be cheaper? nothing to rough and ready but open to histel type ideas
 martin.p65 20 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

Do they do package holidays at that time? During the winter a lot of places close down in Iceland as they get their main influx of tourists in the summer. Apparently this Saturday coming is the start of 'official winter' already.

There are a lot of car rental places in Reykjavik and it seems to be the done thing to do when travelling around.

What did you plan on doing whilst you were here?
 mark hounslea 20 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

I used Airbnb successfully. Car hire prices will make you weep! 4 by 4 essential to get anywhere interesting
 Solaris 20 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

Yes, it is. Public transport is much less frequent and regular in winter, so having a car will give you lots of flexibility. The Icelanders are very good at keeping roads open, especially in the S, but keep an eye on road condition websites and carry the necessary essentials in case you do get caught in a storm. Some hotels etc. will be open, but many/mmost will be closed.

I'm afraid I disagree with the poster who said that 4WD is essential to get anywhere interesting, and I say that on the basis of having two excellent trips to Iceland in winter both in diddy 2WDs on winter tyres that proved more capable than our 4WD in winter in the UK. (OK - it's a Subaru Impreza that puts quite big HP through fat tyres, but winter tyres make far more difference than 4WD unless you are venturing seriously off-road or up steeper roads than you need to venture on to see amazing places. Clearance in a 2WD can be a problem, but a slow and cautious approach can produce surprising results.)

A danger of 4WD is that it can give a false sense of security... Will you be carrying a shovel; do you know how to get out of sand; if the vehicle doesn't have auto 4WD, do you know how to engage it and will the hire company tell you if you don't ask them?
In reply to jethro kiernan:

The plan would be to try and catch the Northern lights as well as a little sight seeing
 ThunderCat 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

Just got back - didn't do anything 'way' off the beaten track - we did a couple of tours on coaches, and the road network seemed very decent (we could have handled it in a non-4wd car).

Not sure how bad it would get in the winter months though.

Be warned...it's not a cheap place.............

And also be aware that on whale watching tours, the whales can be very shy and elusive.......
 HeMa 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

In winter, perhaps a 4WD is not needed, as all the mountain roads (f-roads) are closed anyway.
In reply to jethro kiernan:

not being cheap seems to be a bit of a theme which is why I was wondering about an all inclusive package if any one has any experience, goes against my natural inclination but may be a better option for a short trip 4/5 days
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

We used the hostels (Hostelling International) and there were very good - a nice clean double room for around £50, excellent cooking facitilies, friendly staff - recommended,

Chris
 ThunderCat 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

> not being cheap seems to be a bit of a theme which is why I was wondering about an all inclusive package if any one has any experience, goes against my natural inclination but may be a better option for a short trip 4/5 days

I think the trip around the golden circle (see the geysers, the gulfoss waterfall (pretty awesome sight), and a journey into one of the national parks was about £75 each?

We did see some signs around reykjavic for hire a car from around 10,000kr a day (about £50), but I'm guessing there would have been a whole raft of 'additional' charges on top of that (saw small print for collision damage waivers, gravel damage insurance (I think a lot of the roads are unsealed with loose chippings). Coupled with the hassle of getting used to a new road system, fuel, getting lost, parking, etc etc etc, we just bit the bullet and did the tour.

Whale watching tour was £50 each (bloody whales didn't show up)

Ice Cavern tour was £150 each.....we didn't do that one.

Beer....expensive...

 yorkshireman 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

> not being cheap seems to be a bit of a theme which is why I was wondering about an all inclusive package if any one has any experience, goes against my natural inclination but may be a better option for a short trip 4/5 days

Its not cheap but its worth it - and you'll be going out of season.

We went in August, high season and still managed to find a bed for the night (we flew to Akuyeri, hired a car and drove clockwise round the ringroad back to Reykyavik). We used a combination of booking.com and Airbnb. I would expect some of them to be a bit seasonal though.

After the solitude of the north and east, getting back to the southwest and the Golden Circle was a bit depressing and was overloaded with coaches of tourists - I would have hated to be on a package. I know the irony of being a tourist myself btw!

Also in February I would expect some of the far flung reaches of even the ring road to may be get a bit snowed in sometimes so going it alone could be a bit dicey - that said we want to go back in the winter months so would be interested to hear your experience.

To the comment on Whale watching - yes they can be shy - but it depends when you go - we managed to get close to a humpback and saw plenty of white beaked dolphins up close on a tour out of Husavik. Everyone has different experiences though which is to be expected.
 ThunderCat 21 Oct 2015
In reply to yorkshireman:

> Its not cheap but its worth it

Would definitely agree!

> To the comment on Whale watching - yes they can be shy - but it depends when you go - we managed to get close to a humpback and saw plenty of white beaked dolphins up close on a tour out of Husavik. Everyone has different experiences though which is to be expected.

Very choppy on our tour. Mrs TC did a spectacular impression of a whale, spouting liquid the whole time and making some really odd "Reeeeeuuuurggggh" noises.
 skog 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

We went last October, just based in self-catering in Reykjavik rather than touring round the whole island. I'd love to do that too sometime, and add in some hiking, but there was plenty to fill the time where we were.

We hired a car for the week, and I'm very glad we did - it gives so much more flexibility, to see what you want, spend as much time as you want at each place, and sometimes avoid the crowds.

The way we did it wasn't as expensive as I had feared, and I imagine February can be a bit cheaper still, though it obviously depends what you're going to be doing.

It's hard to imagine a better place for a sightseeing-type holiday, and there will still be lots you can get to in February.

Visiting Seltún geothermal area, watching the aurora dance, exploring Gjábakkahellir lava tube, and sitting in Landbrotalaug hot spring were the highlights for me, but there's stuff like that all over the place!

http://ootnaboot.scot/iceland2014/iceland2014.htm - our photos if you're interested, or looking for ideas.
 skog 21 Oct 2015
In reply to ThunderCat:

I saw a whale surface, for, oh, a second or two. My wife missed it; I'm not sure she believes me. :-/

We saw lots of dolphins, though. And it's generally nice to be on a boat!
 ThunderCat 21 Oct 2015
In reply to skog:

> We saw lots of dolphins, though. And it's generally nice to be on a boat!

You know what, I enjoyed the experience of being on a big boat in rough seas as well. Got a bit hairy at one point

I think it got a bit more choppy than the crew expected...The boat turned, and really lurched to the left (ok, to port ) and felt like it was going to tip. Everyone got thrown against the rail, and then when it righted itself, a woman went careering across deck, hit an old fellow full on, knocked him into a bench and he ended up out cold for a few seconds with three teeth missing.

Pretty horrific to watch and had to turn back ad get the poor sod back to shore
 ThunderCat 21 Oct 2015
In reply to skog:

The tap water was a bit of a surprise as well. Cold, fresh filtered drinkable tap water, but hot water is pumped directly from the underground springs, so full of minerals and smelling heavily of sulphur / eggs.

When you wake up hungover, queasy and thirsty, make sure you have the lever pointed to 'cold' before you have a glass full. It's not pleasant if it's pointed to 'hot'...

 skog 21 Oct 2015
In reply to ThunderCat:

> I think it got a bit more choppy than the crew expected...The boat turned, and really lurched to the left (ok, to port ) and felt like it was going to tip. Everyone got thrown against the rail, and then when it righted itself, a woman went careering across deck, hit an old fellow full on, knocked him into a bench and he ended up out cold for a few seconds with three teeth missing.

Jings!

> hot water is pumped directly from the underground springs, so full of minerals and smelling heavily of sulphur / eggs.

Aye, genuinely scalding hot where we stayed in Reykjavik, you had to be careful!
cap'nChino 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

Good luck with the northern lights, you will need it. Went for 2 weeks and didn't catch so much as a snippet. That said I loved Iceland for everything else it had to offer.

Winter is a good time to go because it is a fraction cheaper and quieter, plus increased northern lights chance.

Car hire is expensive but I found it the best way to get around. Get a 4x4 - I had a ford Kuga and it handled some truely terrible weather admirably (even the Icelanders said the snow storms were bad) .

Most accommodation is rough and ready but you'll be paying a fortune for it.

AirBnB wasn't around when I went but sounds like a good idea.

Depending on how short your trip will be a package tour may be a good option.

Enjoy.
cap'nChino 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

This website will become an obsession while you are there - http://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/
 Marek 21 Oct 2015
In reply to cap'nChino:

> Good luck with the northern lights, you will need it. Went for 2 weeks and didn't catch so much as a snippet.

Cloud cover or lack of activity?
cap'nChino 21 Oct 2015
In reply to Marek:
Double whammy for me, both. I had the typical local response of "the weather hasn't been this bad for a long time" and " you should have been here last week, there was an amazing display".

Takes a lot to bring my spirits down but not seeing the northern lights was a massive disappointment for me. We decided on 14 days out there to increase our chance, it only increased and I rented an expensive wide angle lens for the trip. Urgh, still hurts now and it was 3 years ago.
Post edited at 15:20
 Marek 21 Oct 2015
In reply to cap'nChino:

> ... and I rented an expensive wide angle lens for the trip. Urgh, still hurts now and it was 3 years ago.

I can sympathise. Planning to go to Lofoten late Jan hunting whales and lights. Debating whether to hire a fast tele lens. Should I? Shouln't I? Is F2.8 (vs. F4.5) worth it? At least I'm OK for a wide-angle.
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Have looked and they do appear good value, did you have to take your own bedding?
In reply to Marek:

photographs is why I would like a little more independence, I don't fancy jostling for a position with a coachload of people to set up a tripod etc. Also because it is going to be about spending time with Mrs K I want enough time to be relaxed about taking photos without feeling it is taking over the holiday, a 2hr stopover with a coach load might feel a little rushed.
Not sure I could watch the northern lights without my camera, I did see a spectacular show in Shetlands but I didn't have a camera as I was at work (which did allow me to just relax and take it all in)
In reply to skog:

thanks for the photo link
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

If you book via Booking.com it is included. Not sure of the cost if you just turn up.


Chris
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

We were there in pre-peak season - for June - apparently prices double in the high season. I would expect in Jan/Feb the place would be pretty quiet (and dark!!).

Even when we where there roads were very quiet - it was just the honey pots that were busy.

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/iceland&page=all


Chris
 ablackett 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

Repeating a few things which have been said already. I have been to iceland for a couple of short trips, once christmas for a week and once October half term.

The roads off Highway 1 will almost all be sheet ice/snow (they don't grit the roads with salt, just plough them flat). We had a 4x4 with winter tyres and got blown off the road along the south coast by a strong cross wind and ended up in the gutter we also spun off on a steep descent, both times we were only doing 5-10mph. We wouldn't have got to half the places if we had a 2WD. We got a jeep from geysir rentals which was great. If you can get studded tyres that would be even better, but I didn't find anyone who hired them out.

We found it really hard work looking for the northern lights ourself. Have dinner, sit around, go out to a really cold dark spot. Sit in the car, set up the camera, wait, take some night shots, wait, wait, get bloody freezing, wait. wait, nothing, drive back to hotel in a snow storm, blizzards and drifts blowing across the road. Get back at 2-3am happy to be alive! We tried a couple of times, then gave up and ended up on a cattle bus of a coach tour, still didn't see anything but it was a lot less stressful.

Best day walk we did was to a hot river http://www.afar.com/places/hveragerdi-hveragerdi-2 it's a brilliant walk and you can take a small sledge and sledge straight into a (fairly shallow) hot river.

Best thing about getting a hire car was that you can get to the main tourist spots (google golden circle) before 100's of people turn up on a bus tour, and when you get to Geysir, you can take a small walk and just watch the chaos from the top of a small hill, it's beautiful to just go 10 minutes away from the honey pot and watch all the people milling around the geysirs.

Take micro spikes for your shoes. Sometimes you can't get out of the car without them, sheet ice + wind is very tricky to get around to look at waterfalls etc.

Skogafoss was a particular highlight for us, take all day and walk along the river above it, you will have the place to yourself. http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g608884-d555031-r219006412-Sko...





In reply to ablackett:

thanks
 Trangia 21 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

Hire a sat nav with the car. Place names in Iceland are unpronounceable and incomprehensible.

Don't let your fuel gauge run too low - filling stations are few and far between.

Take loads of money, and even that won't be enough,
 ablackett 22 Oct 2015
In reply to Trangia:

Just take your own sat nav, make sure it has full maps though, our old garmin just had highway 1, nothing else!

Filling stations- most of them outside the capital are unmanned, so you need credit/debit card or you will be stuck.
Bellie 22 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

We went a couple of times in Feb and used the organised trips for the lights. There was plenty of room to set up camera, and plenty of time, although nothing doing on both our trips. At least we didn't pay for the second one as we were able to use the previous year's ticket. Came back in a snow storm, so i was pleased to be in the comfort of the coach rather than in a car.

We were lucky with the whale trip. After nothing much doing in the week, they decided for our trip to bus us further round the coast. After a good while we went further out and got one of the best sights in years (according to the guide) a mad feeding frenzy of whales, dolphins and orcas. For a while I was trying to take pics. Then realised I was so busy trying to get the shot I was missing out on the experience. So I just stood and took it all in. Brilliant.

It was nice and windy for our trip. They couldn't get the walkway to the aircraft for a while and the plane was rocking about on the apron a bit.

First time round we booked a package which included a few trips. The second time we booked our own accommodation and flights (as we weren't doing the organised trips - apart from the lights) both times we got good deals on hotels.

Coach from the airport is straightforward and very efficient.

All in all - I like Iceland!

 wilkesley 22 Oct 2015
In reply to jethro kiernan:

When hiring a car make sure you read the rental agreement very carefully. Many things are excluded unless you pay extra. Specifically chipped glass and paint damage caused by sand storms. Given that you might well be driving over a road surrounded by black sand in 100mph winds it's worth paying the extra. Black sand is basically very finely ground lava and can cause lots of damage when blown at your car at high speed!

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