UKC

I'm considering week in Pedriza next spring instead of the usual Costa Blanca, El Chorro, Haute Provence locations. I know about it's reputation for runout friction slabs, but is there enough to entertain low grade climbers (6a max) for week?

In reply to Marek:

There should be enough at those grades, there are a lot of areas with slabs around the V-6a mark, especially if you're prepared to walk around a bit.

However be warned that F6a slabs there are utterly desperate and technically equivalent to sustained E3 5c on gritstone. They're not generally run-out though (I'm not sure where that reputation comes from), although they can feel scary as you're clipping off crystals and smears.

It is a brilliant and scenic area of fascinating and frustrating climbing. You should go there.

In reply to Fiend


Was sounding quite promising till I got to that bit!

In reply to Fiend:

I found the run-out 5+ slabs you must have missed. Beautiful place but stressful climbing, in my opinion. A week of it would have done my head in. But mix it up by going to other crags nearby. I highly recommend Patones - I have never been on 5+ / 6a that steep, thanks to gigantic rails and buckets. Great fun! And there are a number of other places nearby, there is a good list here. http://www.escalamadrid.com/roca-real/

In reply to Cathy:

Great link; looks like some great places and loved the little Patones video and music.

In reply to Fiend:

I thought it was just me! We did a 3 star 6a+ that was brilliant but felt English 6a for quite a few moves and a 6b that had no holds......it seemed all about just looking for the slightest change in texture and gradient and trusting to friction with no visible real holds. There was an 8a next to the 3 star 6a+........I can't begin to imagine how that could be possible! Beautiful spot though.

In reply to Marek:
A great place don't be put off by scary tales . After a few days you will soon get into the swing.

In reply to DWS gibraltar:


It's not the swing I'm worried about. More the long scrape.

In reply to Marek:

Worth seeking out a route which I think is called El Oso (the bone) - it climbs a amazing detached flake and the slabs above - maybe a bit of 6a on it and plenty of easier ground - 5 or 6 pitches in total.

Clearly visible in this shot:

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Escaladores_en_La_Pedriza.jpg


Chris

In reply to Marek:

We spent a week there climbing up to 5+ without running out of things to do. Both grades and bolt-spacing varied enormously.
Some 5s were desperate, some were easy enough that I solo downclimbed them.
One of the best routes was this one
Espolón Oeste + Maldita vecindad (Peña Sirio) (5a)
the crux pitch had a 30m runout, subsequent pitches were closely bolted, go figure.
This one was also good, and well bolted where it matters
Ziggy Stardust (5c)

We had a couple of days at Patones for variety. The older lines seemed tough for the grade; the newer areas (especially Zona de Arriba) were a couple of grades easier than advertised.

In reply to Marek:

Thanks for everyone's feedback and encouragement. Sound like it's worth going as long as you don't expect a Costa-style clipping holiday.

Now all I need is some recommendations where to practice my slab climbing technique over the winter. Apart from waiting for the rain to stop in the Peak.

In reply to Marek:

I've been there twice and really like it, mostly climbing 5+/6a. Yes, the slab routes do seem hard for the grades, but the same is true for most other areas with granite slabs that I've been to: Tuolumne, Colorado, La Pedriza, Handegg... I have long ago come to the conclusion that in the UK we are not really that good at slab-climbing. The bolts in La Pedriza are usually OK in terms of spacing, sometimes a bit sporting. There are longer routes up on El Yelmo, though this needs a longer approach walk. Close by there is a limestone crag (Patones) when you've had enough of slab-climbing.