UKC

So I have about 2.5 / 3 weeks off work in December and I was planning to go to Thailand - most likely Tonsai area.

Unfortunately the more I read about it the more I am put off. Is there anywhere to get away from the crowds?.. The pictures look amazing but everywhere I have read makes it sound like a complete dump

Anyone have any recent experience of Koh Yao Noi or Loaliang?

Is it pretty straightforward to get there. Direct flight to Bangkok, Internal flight to Krabi and bus / taxi Tonsai area? Finally is it easy to pick parters up if I go on my own?..

Anywhere I else I should consider?.. I have a reasonable amount of time off so somewhere that would be out of reach for a week would be good. Don't want to be on a plane for much more than 12 hours and must be able to find partners out there but that about it!

Oh and on sighting 7a ish

In reply to bigdrew:

I was there for most of September this year. The rubbish / general mess is fairly bad and the new wall doesn't really help the feel of the place. That said, its still a good place to go if you're on your own, I always manage to meet some good people and enjoy myself. Not sure I would fancy it much in high season though.

Maybe a week there and then bail if it does your head in? You might find others there who want to head to Koh Yao Noi or Loaliang.

Easiest way is to Fly to Krabi then get a taxi or bus to Ao Nang and a long tail boat from there.

In reply to bigdrew:
Go to the Krabi area of Thailand, but definitely go to Koh Yao Noi as well as Tonsai. It's easy to travel between the two places and Koh Yao is a much nicer, more chilled and cleaner place, with some superb climbing at the Mitt and the Grateful Wall. No polish, co crowds and great fun exploring the island on rest days. On the way to Koh Yao from Tonsai you could also stop off at Chong Pli, a great "mainland" crag with accommodation right underneath the crag. This place also provides a bit of variety from the usual thuggy steepness in Thailand. Chong Pli has lots of vertical or slightly overhanging, more techy routes. At. 7a check out Grace and Man or Mouse...both superb! The crag may be listed on here as Spirit Mountain. I'd do 3 or 4 days climbing in Tonsai/Railay, a couple of days in Chong Pli, then a week or so on Koh Yao. Easy to ride a moped from Ao Nang to Chong Pli, then on to Koh Yao, assuming you travel light.

You could also probably squeeze in a few days on LaoLiang. One word: Paradise. Don't believe all the crap about the climbing in Thailand being trashed. In Tonsai and Railay it is that way, but there's more to the area than the busy, polished crags there. Even in Tonsai and Railay it's possible to avoid crowds. Head for Ao Nang Tower or hit the multipitch routes on Monitor Wall and the Thaiwand. Once you're a couple of pitches off the ground you won't notice the crowds! Wade or kayak over to the Keep or Eagle Wall at mid tide and there probably won't be anyone there. Ask around for local knowledge of the Bat Cave Wall...a short wade from Ao Nammao, not in the guide and great climbing, plus some cool easy soloing inside the cave "tubes". I'm always amazed how many people slag off the climbing in S Thailand based purely on going to Tonsai or Railay and only climbing at the honeypot crags on the beach.

Drop me an email if you want more info.

In reply to bigdrew:

I went Christmas 2008/9, it was a bit busy and we all got ill because of too many people I believe, however, I still thought it was one of the best trips I have ever had and would love to go back - maybe next year. What's this about a wall? We also went to Lao Liang for a week which was amazing.

In reply to Heike:

Fantastic - that's exactly what I was looking for.

I think I'll start in Tonsai and hopefully pick some partners up who are keen to head further a field!. I'm assuming it is harder to find single climbers away from Tonsai?

Assuming a 70m single rope is enough for everying - including the multi pitch stuff mentioned?

Finally is it worth getting a guide book before I go or winging it once there?.

In reply to bigdrew:

You'll easily find people to climb with on Lao Liang, especially that time of year. Really chilled, friendly place.

In reply to bigdrew:

70 metre rope is fine for Tonsai, there are only a few routes that long. If you go to Chong Pli there is one route that is 40 metres and thats a 6b+.

Get a Guide Book from Elke at Tonsai Base Camp. Its about the best guide for the area.