UKC

Hi all - I've used a spring sticht plate since the year dot, or if not I resort to my trusty fig of 8.
The kids have asked what I want for Xmas so it seems a good opportunity to get something a bit more up to date.

I've many years climbing experience so have no problem with the use of the devices- it will be for a mixture of indoor and outdoor climbing, also winter and summer.

I know there will be a range of different views, but what do people generally recommend.

Thanks in advance

In reply to JamButty:
I like the guide style plates for their flexibility, but then I focus more on mountaineering and prefer big easy mountain routes. If that's what you choose I guess the next question is to choose which one - I think there is some variation in weight and ideal rope thickness.

I also use it at the wall but very much pottering around the 6a/b level.

I personally use the BLack Diamond version and have no complaints and friends are in the same position with the Petzl and DMM offering...

In reply to JamButty:

I'd get on well with my variable controller. Less prone to sticking than sticht plate. Free running but more friction than ATC's or the like. Mine is about 20 years old. Don't know what the new ones are like. NB I tend to use half ropes.

In reply to JamButty:

Any guide plate will be perfect. They're all pretty much the same, I like the Reverso 4 because it's the lightest at the moment.

In reply to JamButty:

What's the percentage split of your climbing on, single rope or twin/double?

In reply to Fraser:

prob more biased to single these days, but still double needed.

In reply to JamButty:

DMM Pivot. A beautiful piece of engineering. Smooth to operate and minimises the lowering issues normally experienced with a guide plate.

Alarte and

In reply to JamButty:

I like my Edelrid Mega Jul. Works really nicely indoors with a cheeky bit of assisted locking. It handles furry indoor ropes and 8.something mm doubles well. Guide mode too but tbh I don't use that much.
A far better-handling device than the VC I replaced it with!

In reply to Pbob:

I have a Variable Controller too, about 5 years old. I'd agree with what you say about it.

You can choose two levels of friction, depending on which side you have the dead rope.

In reply to JamButty:

My Petzl guide plate seems to wear very quickly. BD guide seems more durable.

In reply to angry pirate:



Sorry, that should read "A far better-handling device than the VC that I replaced with the Mega Jul!"

In reply to JamButty:

reverso style guide plate will be the most versatile thing you can buy, behaves exactly like your sprung sticht plate but can be turned into an auto locking device for seconds, be used as an ascender or as part of a pulley system. Definitely very useful if it ever comes to self rescue...
Other option could be a gri gri, but it would take a bit of practice to get smooth with as slightly different style of belaying to a standard sticht plate. Useful if you do alot of sport or expect to get belayed by novices.
Bar that, atc or bug are simple modern updates on the classic sticht plate.

In reply to JamButty:

Thanks all, I'll do a bit more digging into these suggestions.....

In reply to JamButty:

grigri is probably not your best choice for multi pitch for a number of reasons. For single pitch sport climbing and indoor it's brilliant, especially if people are "working" a route and falling a lot and hanging around.
I'm super happy with my reverso 4 for everything else.