UKC

I am going on Honeymoon round the states for 2 weeks and will have 2 days free for climbing. I would like to go and do a memorable climb, preferably a multi pitch to the top of something. i would happily hire a guide if need be not due to my lack of knowledge or experience but just so that I can get up something good hassle free, if that makes sense. I will only have a harness & shoes with me.
has anyone got any good suggestions for a guide or what routes I should be looking at prob up to E4 (whatever American grade that is). Jamming cracks are not my strong point!

Cheers folks.

In reply to Dangerous Dave:

If you're in Zion, take a pair of walking boots, a rucksack and some brave pills and head for Angel's landing.

T.

In reply to Pursued by a bear:

That looks good, might persuade the wife to do that though she is scared of heights!

In reply to Dangerous Dave:

In the Moab area North Face of Castleton Tower (E3) and Fine Jade (E3/4?) on the nearby Rectory are both utterly brilliant ways to the top of classic towers. Some people do them both in the same day. Avoiding Jamming cracks around Moab is a bit of a non starter!

In reply to Dangerous Dave:

A wee bump for the day lot.

Anyone aware of any suitable guiding companies or a way of partnering up with someone?

In reply to Dangerous Dave:
Use lifts and partners on Mountain Project and Supertopo. Really good stuff in both locations from VS. Angels Landing is a pleasant tourist walk with great views. My recommendation is this ultimate "desert island" route before it falls down:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/stolen-chimney/105717310

PS the bit on those pages about needing to be very comfortable at 5.10 is pure bullshit to keep sports climbers away. A solid UK HVS leader should be fine (by the A0 version)

In reply to Dangerous Dave:
Definitely the Castleton Tower when you are in Moab Dave. We did the Kor Ingalls which is only really HVS, and the jamming is really easy. The approach is also easy, and you won't need a guide. The north face does look amazing too... But if you don't like jamming....

There is plenty of good climbing at Wall Street which is roadside, if you just fancy some cragging. This is where we bumped into one of the locals who allowed us access to his 6 racks of camelots for climbing at Indian creek. It's pretty popular, you should be able to hook up with someone there. If not the climbing shop in Moab will be able to help I'm sure.

Not sure about Zion as I only had a look and did no climbing.

Give me a shout if you need any guidebooks.

In reply to Smelly Fox:

Zion has a Supertopo guide that we enjoyed using (its as informative as and a bit less sterile cf their normal guides).

In reply to Smelly Fox: In addition to the Fox's recommendations I would also suggest Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art in the Fisher Towers. Easy climbing but super spectacular. If you get a guide for CT then a half day in the Fishers and half a day on Wall Street would be a great way of using 2 days to their best.

Also check out the Red Rock bakery on Main Street in Moab, and also the legendary Milt's Diner on the old Main Street for the best burgers and fries in Utah.

In reply to Dangerous Dave:

Cheers guys all useful stuff.

In reply to Smelly Fox:


I was pretty underwhelmed by Wall Street (both the roadside location and rock quality not great). Long canyon was great though and far more scenic - fine views to the La Sal mountains - great routes to keep you busy a couple of days. But towers is where its really at!

In reply to Dangerous Dave:

For Moab, you should do a tower…nothing else will be as memorable (forget Wall St – kind of lame...sorry; even Indian Creek …kind of an outdoor gym). So if I could do only a single tower, which would it be?? Tough call but I think the top tier ones are:

1. Moses via Primrose Dihedrals (or Pale Fire if you climb that hard…haven’t done). About 7 pitches of up to 5.10 (obligatory) climbing (5.10+/5.11+ depending on start pitch variation if fully freed). High clearance car also obligatory.

2. Castleton Tower via either Kor Ingalls (5.9 hardish), North Chimney (5.9 softish), or North Face (have not done but looks spectacular). With sufficient enthusiasm, could combine with Fine Jade (200m away) in a day. Regular car is fine.

3. North Six Shooter via Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.10 obl. or 5.11 if you free the opening moves). High clearance car also needed for access.

Some might include the Stolen Chimney (5.10 or 5.8A0) on Ancient Art …but that’s more for the novelty of climbing in the Fishers (& a spectacular summit) vs. actual climbing quality (no jamming here though). Regular car is fine.

Another runner up is Jah Man (5.10+) on Sister Superior.

Also, if you can squeeze out 2 hrs while sightseeing in Arches NP, you could quickly run up Owl Rock (1.5 pitches & 5.8) – no approach, small but a nice quickie.
Have fun.

In reply to rpc:

Owl Rock is short single pitch?? Very nice route though and a must for the phallic obsessed.

In reply to Offwidth:

Owl rock was very good! Dave should appreciate climbing on a 30m desert knob too

In reply to Smelly Fox:

The link... did you find it pretty easy for a 5.8+ (we did):

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/west-crack/105717448

In reply to rpc:


Ooh yes. Brilliant day out. E2? Don't treat as a runner up! A fine airy summit. Less dependent on pure jamming than Fine Jade and N. face Castleton.

In reply to Offwidth:

Yeah, I seem to remember it being easy, if a bit sandy and thruchy. A nice erect summit though...