UKC

Hi guys,

Me and the missus are off to Thailand for three weeks at the end of Jan.. just wondering if you can answer some questions and maybe recommend some stuff you did whilst you were there. Though we are travelling around I'm assuming the main areas we will climb are Krabi and Chang Mai (unless I am missing a trick?)

Is a 50m rope enough?
How many draws should I take?
Are failing bolts still a big issue?
Any recommendations for DWS guides/trips?
Any other recommendations etc?

Churs!

In reply to OliBangbala:


Orange chandeliers on Ao Nang Tower, accessible from Tonsai or Railay by kayak. A great 3 pitch sport route on a spectacularly situated sea stack. Any of the big multipitch routes around Tonsai and Railay. King Cat, the Big Wave, Humanality, the Monitor, Praying Mantis are all superb. Steep, wildly exposed and a good way to get up high away from the polish and the crowds of Tonsai. Be sure to back-clip on the way down though for the steeper pitches.

>. Though we are travelling around I'm assuming the main areas we will climb are Krabi and Chang Mai (unless I am missing a trick?)

Yes...you're missing a trick. Head to Koh Yao. In my opinion, some of the best climbing in Thailand and less of the crowds and polish associated with the other areas. Also, Koh LaoLiang is unmissable...definitely a climbing paradise. Has great bolted routes plus easily accessible DWS.


Things will be much easier with a 70. There are some long pitches at places like the Keep and at Spirit Mountain/LaoLiang. A longer rope will also make descents from the multipitch routes much quicker and easier.


Many pitches are very generously bolted so take 12-15.


Mostly Titanium now, but some stainless still left on Koh Yao Noi. If a route is bolted with stainless expansion bolts avoid.


Get your own group together and rent a boat for the day, then explore from Tonsai...the big roof on Poda is fun. Easy enough to find people to join you. The Mountain shop on Koh Yao can also point you at some great spots close to the Grateful Wall.


if you want a quiet, away from it all experience, spend a few days at Spirit Mountain (bungalows right under crag), and on Koh Lao Liang. You won't regret either. For spirit mountain hire a moped in Ao Nang for a few days and ride out to Chong Pli. You could then leave some kit at Spirit Mountain and ride the moped over to Koh Yao, seeing some great countryside on the ride to the "ferry" at Ao Thalane (about 45 mins ride). Locals in Ao Thalane will help you lift the moped onto the boat. Great little adventure and much better than taking a taxi.

In reply to OliBangbala:

Also, pick up a copy of 'Thailand - A Climbing Guide' by Sam Lightner. Its profit goes to replacing older bolts with Ti, and it's quite an entertaining read as well as a useful guide for the Phra Nang peninsula.

In reply to OliBangbala:
As with previous threads, I'm seconding PeakDJ for Koh Yao. Bit of effort to get there, but sat on the platform in such a great place is an experience. To whet your appetite, see link:

https://www.facebook.com/The-Mountain-Shop-Adventures-132782266734792/photo...
Yours jealous of Evesham
Chris

In reply to OliBangbala:

If your into a bit of bouldering and are in the N.E. check out the new bouldering area of Nam Phong.
Info at Khon Kaen bouldering Fbk page.
Could easily fly up from Bangkok and finish off the hols with a couple of days bouldering on sandstone.
PeakDJ spot on with suggestions and defo take a longer rope.
There are new areas for climbing opening up all over Thailand now but the major ones have already been mentioned.

In reply to OliBangbala:
I had a similar thread here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=628373&v=1#x8169250
Pretty much followed what Peak DJ said. (Thanks for the heads up)

I ended up spending
5 days on Tonsai (I didn't mind it but it is a shit hole compared to the other places.)
1 day at Chong Phli/spirit (Well worth it)
3 days Koh Yao Noi. Would have stayed longer but there were pretty serious access problems - looks like these have been resolved now. Its great fun just getting there and good exploring on a bike when you are there.
5 days on Laoliang (Worth checking the tides - I'd pretty much cleaned up as we couldn't get over to the other walls due to tide times)

I took 70, 60 would have probably been fine though I suspect. 50 will be a pain.
I didn't like the dws. The fact you always have to jump in and get everything wet is a pain. Still a good laugh messing around in the boat.
I had 16 draws and quite often used them all, linking pitches etc.

In reply to OliBangbala:

If you go out on a DWS trip rent a double sit on top kayak and take on the longtail to get yourself to the rockface dry.
Extra pairs of shoes and a pertex ( quick drying) chalkbag are handy.

In reply to dogfish:

Ta for the suggestion, yeah I'm actually a boulder at heart (scaredy cat) but trying to get back to easier sport and trad due to shoulder problems. I saw that there is some bouldering on khao Tao where I will be staying for a bit, guess it's a long shot to think I can rent a Matt anywhere!?

In reply to OliBangbala:

http://www.gtadventures.com/bouldering-information.html
Never used them before, just done a quick search.

In reply to 1234None:

I'd also recommend Koh yao noi, I had a great time. Much more off the beaten track and adventurous... but the routes are just as good.

Humanality is also one of the best routes I have ever done. Just wild.

In reply to Kemics:


I'd be surprised if anyone want to Koh Yao Noi and didn't love it. Such a great place with superb climbing. I thought the Mitt was superb for harder routes and Grateful Wall has to be the best crag in Thailand for routes in the 6s.


Agree. I never tire of doing it. Great fun. There are also loads of their big multi pitch routes that are just as good. I thought praying Mantis was superb, and Circus Oz too.

In reply to OliBangbala:

If your around Bangkok at the weekend, I can drive you to some of the local crags.
70 metre rope is the way to go, for me 20 draws would be fine

Richard

In reply to OliBangbala:
Just came back from two weeks touring Thailand /Laos with Girlfriend and rope. We took 80m which made everything very simple but 70 would be fine. We hit Tonsai and Chang Mai, and while both are worth a visit, can be limited at lower grades (Tonsai is very polished). The best climbing by a long way was Laos Green Climbers Home. Get there before its polished! There website makes it easy to get to and travel from Bangkok by sleeper coach was the a breeze and very comfortable and reasonable.

In reply to Neston Climber:

We really liked this place:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/khao-chin-lae-2/106764283

Zero other climbers (not too many western tourists), a proud looking tower, multi-pitch routes, mandatory scooter for access, and even a touch of bushwhacking. Tonsai was a letdown after that (though climbing was great).

In reply to Kemics:


Koh Yao Noi has just (literally 3 days ago) had a climbing ban put in place.

In reply to OliBangbala:

Koh Tao is your place for bouldering. And there's a good bit of sport and trad there.

Mats, shoes, chalk and all sorts for rent/sale at Goodtime Adventures. Plus a free online topo for the granite boulders everywhere. http://gtadventures.com/climbing/climbing-guide.html

Cannot recommend it enough!

In reply to OliBangbala:

We took an 80m rope, good for some of the routes at Crazy Horse if you head up that way.
20 Draws
Yes - but if you follow the guide which tells you which have been replaced with titanium you should be ok.
Sorry - no experience here.
Go to Crazy Horse near Chiang Mai, you can travel north on a rest day, we only had 2 days here and I could easily have done a week. I preferred everything about the north! The climbing shop in Chiang Mai runs a bus service which is cheap and cuts down on your already massive environmental impact. There are really cheap water refill stations in Chiang Mai so you don't need to use tonnes of plastic too. Lots of other non climbing things in the city here too.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Yeah I loved Chiang Mai! I was supposed to be there for a week...and stayed for a year! I think the quality of the routes there are really very good. Although there's not as much climbing as in the south there's more than enough to climb only 3 star routes for weeks I also think some of the features are incredible. The anxiety state crisis cave is one of the wildest sport routes I've ever done

http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/item.html?crag=3036&route=Anxiety+Stat...

Sport climbing through a roof of a giant cave. Definitely needs a trad head. You can also get really get off the beaten tourist track and go to some wild adventures up north. Love it!