UKC

I'm in the general area of Margalef early May for a family holiday and wanted to get maybe a few half days climbing in. I've checked out the recent UKC article and the Rock & Run one online, but any other advice for don't miss routes in the 6b-7a+ category would be most appreciated. Also 2 specific questions:

- the POD / Andrada guide mentions access to Raco de l'Espadelles as using some fixed ropes. I'm likely to have a non-climbing belayer and just wondered how tricky this is - might save me a bit of time?

- I've yet to manage a 7b, but I think the pockety style at Margalef should suit me, so if anybody can recommend a soft 7b, that would be appreciated

Thanks in advance.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Pitus i Flautes (7b) should fit the bill. It's been years since i've been to Espadelles, but i don't have any recollection of a fixed line on the approach

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Espedellas will be scorchio in May I think as its a south-facing crag.

Finestra would be much better I think (I was there in March). There are some good 7bs there that are fair at the grade and I think there are about 3 in a line.

HTH

In reply to Shapeshifter:
The fixed line at espadelles is merely a hand line. Will be no problem to a non-climber.

There is a shady section at Espadelles - not sure what it will be like Temps wise in May. The routes there were kind of forgettable.

I would certainly think Finestra would be your best bet. Good crag.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

In answer to your first question, access to Espadelles is incredibly straightforward. There is a short section of fixed ropes (going down to access the crag, going up back to the parking) that cover a slightly polished scramble. I would imagine if you generously took the bags and your belayer wore sensible shoes then you would be completely fine.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Wow - I go off to make a brew and I get a pile of replies - good old UKC.
Thanks all for the helpful advice folks - I'll definitely give Finestra a look and thanks for the 7b recommendation Ally.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

I sent you a PM but I will repeat what I wrote, just in case you don't see it:

There is a fixed line to access Espadelles, but it is just to aid an easy down climb. Espadelles is good in the morning (before noon) in the first shady sectors if it is hot. The grades are all over the shop in Margalef some 6b´s are harder than some 7a's. Recommended 7b, amb pal no dona pal 7b in Espadelles and the 2 7a's to its right are popular. Other excellent sectors in the shade are can Regino, Can Dit gros and Can Dit Xic, with loads in the range 6a- 7c, with memorable routes like Indian Holidays(7a), Regino(7a) and Peus de Moix(7a+), to name a few.
La finestra is a great crag, but mostly for the hard 7a and above grades.
We live here and the weather around May tends to be dry and warm, good for the shade..
Have fun
Simon