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Guidebooks for Yorkshire

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 climbwhenready 18 Jan 2016
What guidebooks for the N Yorkshire area? I'm contemplating our forthcoming (well, August) move to Skipton.

It looks to me as if Yorkshire Gritstone Vol 1 & 2 are the definitives (does Vol 2 include eg. Crookrise? The publisher's website says it does, and UKC says it doesn't). Are they any good? Is Rockfax N England worth getting as an additional?

And what are the best (and well-protected) climbs in the S/HS range I should do when I get there?
And when I'm a better climber, what are the best VSs?
 Offwidth 18 Jan 2016
In reply to climbwhenready:
Volume 2 includes Crookrise (not seen anywhere on UKC that says it doesn't). As well as being definitive on grit routes It also has the vast majority of the grit bouldering. The Rockfax covers selective routes in areas outside the YMC guides and gives a selective vies of the same crags. The YMC volumes also make a good read at home on manky days, as there are lovely bits of potted hisories and profiles. If you bang the two volumes together they make an excellent weighty thunderclap... very apt for god's own rock.

The best VS climbs are in graded lists in both types of guide. My mixed bag of favorites from the 3 star classics would be Frankland's Green Crack; Walewska; Birch Tree Wall; Pillar Rib; Chevin Buttress; Earl Crack; Krypton Route with the Flake Finish
Post edited at 16:59
 Offwidth 18 Jan 2016
In reply to climbwhenready:
Timed out editing the Severes and Hard Severes! All big classics here...

There are lots of VDs that think they are Severes... Fluted Columns, Widdop Ordinary.

A Severe list:
The adventure of A climb (but the start slab is very bold HS so use the gully instead and you need big guns for the exit).
The lonely loveliness of Y Front.
The rising excitement of Flake.
Mountain magnificence of Red Pencil.
Delightful Dental Slab.

A Hard Severe list:
Birds Nest Crack... jamming perfection.
Parson's Chimney...the space between ones legs.
Fairy, Steps... how does a HS go up such a steep exposed wall?
Jugs and ledge teetering on Josephine.
Epitaph... another quarry materpiece.. pumpy to place pro at the start so rev up.
Post edited at 17:54
Iain(2010) 18 Jan 2016
In reply to climbwhenready:

Yorkshire Gritstone Vols 1 & 2 are great. Given your location in Skipton you will also be close to lots of limestone crags, some will have bolted routes for sport but there are plenty of trad routes too. There is the Yorkshire Limestone guidebook (Yorkshire Mountaineering Club 2005) which has good route descriptions but when it comes to pictures of routes it doesn't deliver information as well as the Gritstone guides for example.

Someone on here may have suggestions for a guidebook that is better for the limestone crags.

Time spent at Brimham Rocks and Almscliff crags won't be wasted, plenty of routes available to get you going and to perfect your jamming technique.

Good luck with the move, we might have dried out by August.
 peter.corrigan 18 Jan 2016
In reply to climbwhenready:

Skipton has it's own climbing club....

We will be happy to show you around.

Craven Mountaineering Club.

We have a website and are just getting to grips with Facebook.
In reply to Offwidth:

Cheers for the list! And I found an excerpt of the YMC guides online, they do look like nice books.

FWIW, it's on http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=1481 where Crookrise isn't included; presumably an oversight.
In reply to peter.corrigan:

Cheers, I'll look you up

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