UKC

What's the best spanish crag/area for a beginner climber? In your opinion, and why?

In reply to tonanf:

Costa Blanca based near Calpe would be a good start. Sierra de Toix - short walk in, great views, single and multi-pitch routes at a good range of easier and moderate grades. Not too far away if you have a car there's little Font d'Axia, bigger Echo Valley, picturesque Guadalest, and a bit further, Montessa or Salem. The Penon d'Ifach, although tempting and highly visible around Calpe, is probably not a good beginner crag.

Dave

In reply to tonanf:

we found reasonable beginner stuff in margalef ... stuff for several weeks below 6a.

In reply to tonanf:

Which season do you anticipate going ? I suspect there is > 1 crag area - I have experience of Costa Blanca & lleida and there's good stuff for beginners in both zones. What grde range exactly are you looking for - as low as 4a ??

In reply to tonanf:

Well, Spain's a big country! And the Continential ethos is very much to have routes of all grades, if possible - so, if A wants to be on F8c and B wants to be on F4, it can still work fine.

But... I'd go with Full Stottie. Costa Blanca is very much Spain without tears (or, sacrilege, the UK with much more sunshine). But, as it's not actually the UK, it's kind of nice to try a bit of Spanish. Doesn't matter if you're crap (I am!), they don't mind and they'll still appreciate the courtesy.

Yes, as Full Stottie says, avoid the Penon d'Ifach (my first route in Spain was on it, memorable for the necessary speed and interesting as I was with a certain lady famed for her prowess and slowness).

Echo 1.5 is worth a visit. Never was a crag more wryly named. The routes are innocous but the setting is splendid. And the little crag just below has lots of crimpy little routes if one of the party wants something harder.

Mick

In reply to full stottie:

+1 for Toix and Guadalest

In reply to I like climbing:

+2 for Toix et al.

JW

In reply to tonanf:

Thanks, looking at toxic

In reply to John Ww:



Another one for starting at Toix Far Oeste. Very easy routes which are well bolted. Unfortunately, as with most easy crags, it feels a bit tired but easy access and a great view make up for it.
Better is Font D'axia with loads of easy 4s and 5s. A bit of loose rock here and there, but a nice place and well equipped.
A bit further from the beaten track is the routes on the far right side of Murla is worth searching out for beginners routes around 4 and 5, great views across valleys and hills, and extremely quiet.
Have a good time

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Thanks for your recommendation.

In reply to tonanf:

San Bartolo

Great sandstone sport. Crags facing east and west, so very easy to find shade. Just up the road from some nice beaches.

In my opinion, the best sport crag/area in Spain suitable for beginners, and those looking for something other than polished limestone.

In reply to Mick Ward:

So should Rich have named "Echo 1.5" something more exciting! Suggestions welcome lol

It is a lovely location though and really good as a start to sport routes, I still like Toix but both crags are now so popular it can be an issue!

I am bugging Rich and others to please please get more bolts in the new crag on the way to Relleu, but you know these guys they don't get as much fun from bolting easy lines! Maybe I need to think up an incentive!

Sam Orange House

In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Oh no, Echo 1.5 is the perfect name, not to be confused with, err... Echo One or indeed Echo Two.

That's odd, I prefer bolting easy lines. I just think the easier the route, all else being equal, the more people are going to do it. And, as you're predominantly bolting for other people anyway, it's more enjoyment all round. There's nothing I like more than tons of people doing my routes. There's a real feeling of satisfaction, that you've brought something into being for them, even if you'll never meet most of them.

I'm sure you'll think of an incentive!

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:
I just bolted 6 new lines... No sorry 7 now, between 4 and 6a, at sella above sector finale. There are already 30+ new lines there including ~8 below 6a. Google 'Costa vertical topo' for the old topo. New lines are on ukc (don't think moderator has approved them yet). More to come.

Oh - and hi Mick! Fancy getting out on Portland when I get back in April?

In reply to Jonathan Emett:

Hi Jonathan, good effort! I remember walking along there with Craig, looking at line after line; glad they've been done. Gives a bit more scope for people.

Meant to catch up with you guys at Christmas but got stuck in Altea, house/cat sitting for Michele, with a large To Do list. Sorry!

Sure, can get out on Portland when you're back, though for part of April I'll be helping Michele to get back, driving across Spain. Sorry I've not been able to muster up much enthusiasm for Porty in recent years but, as we've got some extravagent (bonkers!?) climbing plans afoot, it might be a good place to chill out.

Give my best regards to Craig, if he's about. The evening he took me to the Cave of Power at Villa Joyosa was just the best - even if it had to be renamed the Cave of No Power in my honour.

All best wishes,

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Spent a few hours in Echo Valley today, first visit ever. Apart from the views which are exceptional, the quality of rock and relative lack of polish on well bolted crags is a real delight.
As a proper old school crag rat, the possibility to belay from the car is delightful 10/10.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Hi Paul, for me, there's something about Echo Valley, don't know what, but it seems to calm me down. Maybe some far-off echo of Irish hills... I don't really know. It's a tranquil place.

That little roadside crag is a crag rat's paradise once you get used to it. Buho Variant, exquisite moves, Papel de Lija and Salsiki Timbanki also good, La Paella probably the best. The innocous Bitman harder than the rest, gruesome. I popped off the last hard move and had to bin it cos my belayer was uncomfortable (she was standing in a hole!) Can't remember the sequence now. So it goes...

Worth going on this wall mid-afternoon, when the sun's off it. The little crag at the bottom (La Playa?) looks as if hens have been all over it (as was once said of Burbage). Some lovely 6a warm-ups on it though.

But the best thing about Echo Valley is the peace. Enjoy it.

mick