UKC

Hi all
I am looking at going to Pembroke twice this year and I have never been before. I have tried to look on the database on here but it is a bit overwhelming. There are many crags that state 20+ routes, when you dig into it there maybe 5 with 3 unmoderated.

So my question is, to save me time with your collective wonderful knowledge, where is a good crag to visit? I am lookng to climb S to HVS.

Thanks in advance

In reply to stucknortherner:
Hi there. A really good area for a first trip is saddle head to St govans . A few must do routes are.
Sea Mist (HS 4a)
Blue Sky (VS 4b)
Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a)
Hercules (HVS 5a)
Army Dreamers (HVS 5a)
Front Line (HVS 5a)
If u have no trouble on that lot then The Arrow (E1 5b) is well giving at the grade .
And most of that list is not tidal. Only riders on the storm and the arrow need mid tide and falling. And blue sky needs a low tide to get both pitches in. Good parking and pub and camp site down the road. Well worth a look.
Luke.

In reply to stucknortherner:

If visiting twice and climbing at those grades I'd plan one trip to the North and climb on the sandstone crags near St. Davids:
Porthclais Area
Caerfai Bay
No match for crag id:2791
and a few of the easier lines at Carreg-y-Barcud Area
On the other trip head South for some classic Limestone ticks at:
Saddle Head
Flimston Bay
possibly No match for crag id:869 & No match for crag id:18634 too.
A few must do routes:
Armorican (VS 4c)
Metamorphosis (HS 4b)
Blue Sky (VS 4b)
Bow-Shaped Slab (HS 4b)

In reply to The Ivanator:

Cheers,
how would i go about getting a permit from the army?

In reply to stucknortherner:
Simple. Go to a briefing. Check the BMC site for the dates.
For a lot of South Pembroke I think HVS is entry level. Im sure lots will disagree with me.
Pembroke can be quite brutal on the body so you need to be fit. But its just so good. Some of the best climbing in Britain me thinks. Thats why I keep going back

In reply to PaulTanton:

HVS is certainly entry level if you buy the rockfax. There is literally miles of easier stuff on the south coast that they completely missed out though.

In reply to stucknortherner:
No permits are required.
There are no range complications in the North (St. Davids area). In the South the popular areas in Range East are accessible without a requirement to attend the MOD briefing - just check firing times and steer clear of them https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2
A red flag is displayed at the sentry boxes if firing is in progress. Climbing in Range West requires attendance at one of the MOD briefings, but this is unlikely to be your destination on your first couple of Pembroke ventures. Also be aware of potential bird bans in spring (check guidebooks/BMC RAD https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ & local signage for details - restricted areas are often shown by upturned red concrete bucket markers on the clifftop), if you are flexible there is almost always somewhere good to climb.

In reply to The Ivanator:


Also look into the gabbro crags on the North coast of North Pembroke - particularly Craig Coetan. It's nice climbing, often quiet, and feels relatively wild and adventurous by comparison with the sandstone.

In reply to davidbeynon:


And conveniently, there's a new CC select guide out as of last week, so you no longer need the 5 tome monster of a definitive.

In reply to Ramblin dave:

Good call - had a half day at Coetan combining Act of God (VS 4c) and Fuzzy Peg (S 4a) - both great routes that give an adventurous 4 pitch full height line.

In reply to stucknortherner:

To get the very best out of Pembroke be prepared to move crags. If you go by guidebook starred routes you won't go far wrong. St Govans car park puts you within range of probably the widest selection of routes at those grades.

In reply to stucknortherner:

Below HVS the climbing in Pembrokeshire is so-so. Sea Mist is the exception, as it is one of the best VSs anywhere. But the rest of Saddle Head is an polished toilet, and Flimstone slabs and the other slabs around there, along with most of the slabs in North Pembroke, are very samey. Only once you get into the E-grades does Pembroke begin to justify its hype.

The only exception I would make is to agree with Ramblin Dave's suggestion of Craig Coetan - it's a fabulous spot and feels super wild. We did a cracking 2/3 pitch Severe there with only a curious seal for company in the inlet below.

In general though, in the S-HVS grade band you are better off saving time and petrol and going to Gower. Fall bay, Boiler Slab and Three Cliffs all have dozens of suitable routes, and it's much quieter than Pembroke.

In reply to Alun:

I don't agree that Saddle Head is polished - it never ceases to amaze me how unpolished the routes there are. There are a reasonable number of starred VSs about in Range East, and plenty of good HVSs.

In reply to stucknortherner:

A couple more great routes accessible from the St. Govan's parking:
Myola (HS 4b) spectacularly situated at the entrance to Huntsman's Leap
Bludgeon (HVS 5a) superb line (and soft in the grade)
Don't believe the naysayers, there is a wonderful sub E grade Pembroke out there, sometimes just takes a little more ingenuity and moving from crag to crag to take full advantage of it.

In reply to Alun:

Saddle Head isn't polished, with the exception of the Sea Mist / Pinkun slab and even there it doesn't affect the climbing unless its damp.

Saddle Head for all the crowds is a great sub VS venue

In reply to GrahamD:

Couldn't agree more. If saddle head is polished then get to Avon and Wye valley. Sorts the men from the boys. For me learning at symonds yat has made all other areas feel like new routeing. Lol.
Luke.

In reply to stucknortherner:

Get the new Wired guide - Pembroke Rock.
1000 selected routes in North and South Pembroke including Range West.
There are over 160 selected routes described at HS or below, and over 200 at VS - HVS

In reply to stucknortherner:

Or if you're looking for a lower cost option... I'm selling the previous CC double guides for £8 posted.

In reply to Alun:

>Only once you get into the E-grades does Pembroke begin to justify its hype.

Disagree, as others have said. South Pembroke is definitely one of my favourite areas and although I've enjoyed the classic E1's (some of which are pretty good for breaking into the grade) that's as hard as I climb, and I've had days of excellent climbing at HVS and below.

For a first trip or two, follow the guidebook stars and you can't go far wrong. Saddle Head is popular, but definitely not polished enough to bother you, and full of routes at the right grade. You may be moving from crag to crag to make the best of your other days, but the distances between crags are short.

Agree it's worth looking out the classics at the grade in North Pembroke as well, but there's plenty to go at in the South. I don't think anyone's mentioned Mowing Word. Diedre Sud HS is pretty classic, and there are others in the VS - HVS range there that are well worth the (slightly) longer walk.

Martin