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Exmoor coast

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 Cheese Monkey 05 Feb 2016
Any info on climbing in this area appreciated, will be spending a bit of time around there early this year. Don't think its in any currently published guides? Hurlstone info would be great but also any other crags around the coast proper. I know about the traverse, would definitely like to give that a crack one day!

 kingholmesy 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

There's some coverage in Pat Littlejohn's South West Climbs volume 2.
OP Cheese Monkey 05 Feb 2016
In reply to kingholmesy:

Ah nice I havent got that one yet. Is that for Hurlstone only or more?
 Tom Last 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Think it's got Valley of the Rocks too at least.
OP Cheese Monkey 05 Feb 2016
In reply to Tom Last:

Right on I will check it out cheers

If anyone knows any details of the more esoteric stuff I'd be keen to take a look.
 Andy Morley 06 Feb 2016
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

I'm interested in any information you may gather as I'm organising a climbing trip/ camp in the Croyde area later this year. Places like Valley of the Rocks are just around the corner from the Culme Coast. I took a bunch of teenagers up Castle Rock 18 months ago and I hear that there's bouldering at/ near Lynmouth but haven't checked it out.
Raishser 06 Feb 2016
Wonderful discussion and great reviews your answer here. The broad way of ( information is available here.
 Mark Kemball 06 Feb 2016
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

I've not climbed there myself, but this group https://www.facebook.com/groups/855783061162060/ (Exmoor Bouldering) ought to be able to help.
 Ian Parsons 06 Feb 2016
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

This is quite handy for Hurlstone Point:

http://tides.willyweather.co.uk/south-west-england/somerset/hurlstone-point...

The Low Tide height range is between chart datum (0m) and about 4.50m. To the guidebook's general advice of low- to mid-tide requirement for the sea-level areas, in particular Fledgling Wall (left of Shatter Cave) and non-abseil access to the section immediately east of Gull Hole, I would suggest that any time around Neap Tides can leave you with a vanishingly small time slot for getting to your route and up it. As the guidebook points out, you actually need something close to Low Water Springs to be able comfortably to move around from area to area at sea level. I probably wouldn't bother with the lowest sections when Low Water is higher than 3.00m, sea state permitting.

Coastguard Wall is non-tidal and is approached down the adjacent grass slope from the overlying Old Coastguard Station. In recent years a very substantial galv steel safety fence was erected along the front of the platform on which the building stands, presumably to prevent anyone from slipping/tripping off the edge and following a thereafter somewhat inevitable trajectory down steep grass and over the top of the cliff. By "substantial" I mean that you'd be unlikely to be able to drag it anywhere even if it wasn't bolted down. It seems sensible, therefore - albeit not entirely necessary - to attach a spare rope at ground level to its eastern end and toss it diagonally down the grass towards the two small rock outcrops that mark the belays atop routes to the right of and including Severance, where it could be reached in order to provide a back-up for said belays which I would describe as adequate rather than "beyond doubt".

OP Cheese Monkey 12 Feb 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Thanks all. Picked up SW climbs volume 2, it states coastguard wall as 50m single pitch, are 50m ropes adequate? I ccompletely understand what you mean about belays
 Ian Parsons 13 Feb 2016
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

The guidebook suggests that Coastguard Wall - ie the whole cliff - is 60m high; the database seems to confirm this by recording routes that start at the bottom as being in the region of 60m long, and an earlier guidebook gives Nazgul a length of 190 feet. Only one of the three routes mentioned (but not described) in South West Climbs vol 2 - Complicated Simon - actually starts at the base of the wall; the other two start higher up in the wall's right-side defining gully, just below the small gearing-up spot between boulders where the approach path arrives from the right. One assumes that Complicated Simon and the database's Coastguard Cutter are in fact the same route, although the latter is recorded (at 49m) as having the same length as Coastguard Slab - which obviously can't be quite right as the one route starts rather higher than the other and they both finish at the same level. One could, however, start Complicated Simon/Coastguard Cutter by traversing in from the higher location as on Severance - which wouldn't really involve missing anything as the initial section up to the vegetated clump is very easy; perhaps the database pitch length assumes this. So while in theory this route would seem to require a 60m rope, the various options of using the higher start, splitting the pitch at the clump (I recall quite a good combination of Rock 4 and small Alien in the crack where Severance crosses just above) or simply having the second simul-climb the bottom easy bit to allow the leader to reach the belay, all suggest that something longer than 50m isn't absolutely necessary.

Otherwise, I'm guessing that 50m should be fine. I say "guessing" because I actually used a 70m on all these routes; as guesswork goes, though, it is at least reasonably informed! First off, on Coastguard Slab, the extra length took me all the way to the railing - not, on this occasion, having a spare rope with me to pre-rig. Abbing for the gear with the rope rebelayed/equalized to a hex in an obvious crack in the outcrop atop the route, I got back to the start in the gully with about four metres to spare. It's probably between fifteen and twenty metres from the outcrop up to the railing, which puts the pitch length at around 50m or possibly a bit less; the second might have to move up the odd metre but, again, it's all pretty easy low down. For Severance I had the pre-rigged rope from the railing, so obviously had loads of the 70m left over at the belay under the other small outcrop (stake, sling draped over the flat top, possibly the odd nut); with a 50m it may be necessary for the second to move across to the clump but, again, it's pretty easy there. Right at the top on all three routes, where the angle starts to lean back just below the grass, there seem to be rather more features offering protection possibility than are encountered lower down; it should be possible for the leader to place something half-decent thereabouts and clip into it while the second performs any required relocation.

I trust this all makes some sort of sense.
 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 13 Feb 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Can you just run through that one more time.....?
 Ian Parsons 13 Feb 2016
In reply to Neil Foster:

No; as you're well aware, I haven't run anywhere for decades. Nor, either, does "Simon" have a monopoly on complication!
OP Cheese Monkey 13 Feb 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Er, yes I think it makes sense. Basically pitches are likely to be very close to 50m long and there are options. Although I doubt my wife will go in for simul climbing however short. Will probably split the first climb and watch the halfway marks on ropes. Cheers!

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