UKC

Can anyone recommend some decent routes for tomorrow (not E numbers) that will be dry this time of year and free from the 'orrible green slime that usually afflicts the lower tier of the Roaches and much of Hen Cloud around now?

It's several degrees warmer in the West tomorrow than Stanage way, and though we'll be taking bouldering mats it would be nice to get some routes done. Any suggestions?

In reply to Andy Morley:
The Roaches were in pretty good nick today. All of the easy stuff behind the Hall was clean as well as Calcutta buttress along to The Sloth (didn't go any further along.
Anything that gets traffic was clean and dry.
It was also very mild weather for the time of year with no breeze unless belaying on top. Tomorrow looks promising too.

In reply to deacondeacon:


Brill! - Thanks!

In reply to Andy Morley:

I did 12 easy routes at Stanage yesterday, all were dry and pretty clean, even some relatively obscure ones. So hopefully the western edges will be in similar conditions.

In reply to Andy Morley:

It's a fine morning! I've just walked the dog past windgather....heading over to the skyline area later....should be a good day on grit!

In reply to abr1966:

Seriously jealous. Yesterday was one of those perfect grit days and today looks no different.

In reply to deacondeacon:


It was brilliant - thanks to everyone for encouraging me to go to the Roaches, I had intended to go somewhere maybe less good but reading the above, I changed my mind and was glad I did. Did some good routes up on the Skyline and even persuaded myself to lead a route which is pretty good for me on a first outing of the season as my head doesn't usually engage with my feet until I've been out two or three times. Then capped it off with a Lower Tier classic which I'd never usually have considered at this time of year as previous experience has been that it's often unclimbable there due to the greenery until later on in the year. Absolutely fantastic!

In reply to Andy Morley:

Great stuff. And now the rain is here again so good timing

In reply to Andy Morley:


Although the Roaches and Hen Cloud can look a bit green at times, this is only usually a problem if it is damp and green. If it is dry and green then most routes are fine, since the actual holds used are kept clean by use.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

This is so true! We did Bengal Buttress which was a lovely luminous green but its a great route - you just have to ignore the rather scary colour

In reply to deacondeacon:

How's it shaping up for this weekend in the Western Peak guys? I'll be heading to Leek with a climbing partner on Friday night, and we're planning on climbing somewhere around there at least one day this weekend.

In reply to Andy Morley:

It's drenched at the moment, and at this time of year it will take a fair time to dry.

In reply to Coel Hellier:


I've never climbed at the Five Clouds though I have climbed at the Nth Cloud, and that looks like it would dry out quickly. What are the quickest areas around Leek to dry out anybody?

In reply to Andy Morley:

Sorry - that was written in haste and didn't make much sense. What I meant was - which parts of the Roaches and nearby crags dry out most quickly after a drenching?

In reply to Andy Morley:

The Five Clouds would worth a look given some sunshine and half a chance of a drying breeze but isn't it forecast to snow tonight until the weekend?

In reply to Dave Garnett:



According to the Met Office the Western Peak will be largely dry this weekend, but that's not what I'm hearing elsewhere. Anyone on the ground there now?

In reply to Andy Morley:

I'm a bit North of the Roaches, but it's drizzling low down and very snowy above 200m (slushy below that). Roads in the peak could be tricky to drive. It is forecast to be brighter tomorrow so might dry but snowmelt could be an issue.

In reply to Andy Morley:
this is the web cam from the Winking man pub: http://www.camsecure.co.uk/WinkingMan.html

Thanks, that's really useful

In reply to Andy Morley:
Currently much wet snow on the ground and more falling here at Garnett Towers (15 minutes away from the Roaches and similar altitude).

In reply to Dave Garnett:


OK, current plan is to climb indoors today, have a recce round the Roaches late afternoon with a view to climbing there tomorrow, in the hope that the snow will have gone by then. Does that sound wildly over-optimistic?

In reply to Andy Morley:


Yes!

This is the usual conditions susser for the Roaches: http://www.flashbarstores.co.uk/

In reply to Andy Morley:

'Sunny intervals' now, drying where it isn't snow covered and quite nice when the sun does shine. Not sure the snow will have gone by tomorrow but you might find some dry rock that doesn't take drainage.

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Thanks for the updates. In the end, we did other things and admired the snow on the moors around the Roaches from a distance.