UKC

This is bit of a long shot, anybody have any experience of climbing in Japan? There seems to be a huge amount of stuff to do there, but finding information is a little tricky - a few blogs and a few vague postings of routes on websites which usually cover UK and USA. Has anybody got any first hand experience of the place?

I'm looking for a longish routes, 5-6 pitches, easy, 5+ish sport and bolted belays. Abbing would be ok, walk off preferable. Not asking for much.. Am I likely to be able to find something like this over there?

Also, preferably within reach of Tokyo.

Any ideas?!

Thanks in advance.

In reply to The Green Giant:
The central arête on Mt Futago near Chichibu is probably going to be your best bet around Tokyo for something around 5 or 6 pitches. You'll find a full description here on my site (Did you really not find this site from a Google search?):

http://climbjapan.blogspot.jp/2009/01/futagoyama-central-arete.html?m=1

The Koesawa Buttress has slightly easier access, but only runs to 3 pitches:

http://climbjapan.blogspot.jp/2013/11/koesawa-buttress.html?m=1

There are also quite a few multipitch rock routes included in this book, which presents a selection of ten of the finest climbs in Japan in my opinion:

http://amzn.to/23DKFpN

Hope that helps. Get in touch if you want more info.

Tony

In reply to TonyG:

Hi Tony,

Thank you for the information, it looks like you have hit the nail on the head. Would love to have a whole climbing trip in Japan but am restricted by partners abilities and other commitments, so this looks like a good compromise.

I did find that site, I don't know the regions of Japan though and as much as I love reading about climbing, trawling the whole website didn't really take my fancy.

Once again, thank you kindly. May be in touch if I need to ask more questions.

Alex

In reply to The Green Giant:

My pleasure, Alex. Give me a shout closer to the time if you need any more help. All the best!

Tony

In reply to The Green Giant:

I've always fancied climbing in Japan but I am now put off by the thought or radiation

In reply to DWS gibraltar:


Quite right, mate. You'll be glowing green before you clear customs.

In reply to The Green Giant:

The South Wall at Jouyama has some multi-pitch clip-ups up to about 4 pitches but the best ones are 5.10a or above.

A bit further out, Ogawayama and Mizugaki have plenty of multi-pitch routes, but nothing that doesn't require at least some gear here and there.
Haru no Modori Yuki (4 pitches, 5.7) is a doddle though, especially if you dodge the top corner, and has bolts generally where it matters. (Walk off)
Gamma is also good with an avoidable 5.9 crux pitch that requires a Friend 4. Even so, it's probably best to have a light rack and you'd still have a tricky bolted 5.9 slab on P2. (1 x 50m ab to a good path)

But as someone intimated above, if travel time is limited, you might be better off climbing single-pitch stuff. Plenty within reach of Tokyo.

In reply to edwardwoodward:

Thanks all to replying on here, and to the person who sent me the address of a website in an email without anything else in it - odd but informative.