UKC

Hi all,

Am heading to ailefroide in mid May, and looking for a little advice. Firstly, I only have 50m doubles, are these likely to be long enough? Some of the info I have read recommends a 100m rope...which I have no intention of buying!

Secondly, what's the best guide? Briancon climbs and 'escalates autour d'ailefroide' are the two I have seen. I speak a little French but could do with a guide in English if possible! Is there anywhere that sells them apart from the shop in the village? Keen to have a look before I go!

Also if anyone has any more tips or advice for ailefroide I would be grateful!

Thanks all in advance

In reply to Sd00148:

We were fine with 60 metre doubles - normally with plenty to spare. 60m allow you to skip some belays on the descents.
The village shop had sold out when we got there so maybe pick up on the way up. A few french terms and you'll be fine - they aren't exactly long route descriptions
Lovely place - imagine it will be cold at night in May!

In reply to hang_about:

I called in there once in May and everything was closed. The weather was fine for climbing but I only saw one pair of climbers on the crag.

Al

In reply to hang_about:
Thankyou. So you think 50s would be okay but just wouldn't be able to skip belays?

Yes anticipating Coldish nights, any idea about daytime temps for May? Hopefully it won't be too chilly!

In reply to GridNorth:
Assuming the camping area would still be available though no?! Hope it's not all closed! Thought May was the start of the season particularly for kayakers.

In reply to Sd00148:

Well the camp site wasn't fenced off or anything but there were no facilities. Everything was shut and boarded up, camp site, shops and bars. It was after an Easter trip to Provence so probably early May. The weather was perfect so I was disappointed to not be able to climb. I had intended to stay there for a few days.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:
Okay thanks. Will have transport so could potentially stay in a nearby town and travel in. Also going to probably look at some of the lower level cragging in the area as maybe that will be slightly warmer.

Thanks!

In reply to Sd00148:

Some of the other crags in that area are brilliant. One problem with Ailefroide is that you tend to get a bit "slabbed out" as many of the climbs are of a very similar character. I know because I've climbed most of them over the years so I ration my visits now.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:
Yeah I have heard that. It's my first trip to the Alps and somewhere I have always wanted to visit, so hopefully it won't disappoint! Need to get my hands on some guides for local crags. Don't suppose you have any for sale? Or could reccomend any?
Sam

In reply to Sd00148:
I have these but have had them for some time:

Grimper dans le Haut-val Durance by Yan, Martine et Jean Jacques Rolland

Oisans Nouveau, Oisans Sauvage Livre Est 250 Escalades (there is also a Livre Ouest) by Jean Michel Gambon

These cover the whole area but the following is just Ailefroide:

Escalades A Ailefroide by Pierre-Henri Paillasson and Jeam Michel Gambon

Should be available in Briancon

Al

In reply to Sd00148:

The website of the campground says it will open around the 13th or the 20th of May depending on conditions. e went last year for the first two weeks of June and it was probably close to freezing at night (though very pleasant during the day - when it didn't rain, that is). Everything else in Ailefroide itself will likely be closed, there's a shop called Sherpa I think which was just opening and another gear shop that opened towards the end of our stay I think? Otherwise they may have the guidebook in Vallouise (there's a shop next to the laundromat), they had at least the bouldering guidebook. In the worst case there's Alpimat in Briançon, very easy to find and they had heaps of Briançon Climbs, which covers the whole area and which we found good overall (we only did single pitch though). We did struggle to find a couple of crags where you have to follow winding dirt tracks but that's pretty much it.

In reply to Sd00148: I climbed there this summer using my 60 and a mates 50. There was little room for error on some raps. I thoroughly recommend 2x 60 if you don't want to be frightened

In reply to Sd00148:
50m ropes will be fine, all the multi-pitch is geared for 50's.
The local guidebook Escalades au tour Ailefroide is excellent and has abseil points and lengths marked up.
I expect it could be chilly on the north facing crags, but perfect on most crags.
If it too cold any days just go down the valley to the limestone crags.
If your after staying in an apartment in the village then email me, very cheap rates in May.

In reply to GridNorth:
The newest edition (2015?) of the Rolland guidebook now has an English-language title (something like "Briancon Climbs" ?), and bilingual text.

Not sure why everyone is so focused on Ailefroide. There's lots of other rock within an hour's drive. Much of that lower-altitude and more sun exposure. And much of it more interesting climbing for those of us who get bored with slabby granite. (see the Rolland gudebook). Likely need a motor vehicle to access most of it.

I think the advantage of Ailefroide is in the _summer_ season, when it delivers cool weather and lots of climbing options in walking distance of pleasant camping. Otherwise I'd guess that enclosed valley is a trap for cold air.

Ken

In reply to kenr:
Thanks ken, already getting the feeling that we may need to head outside of ailefroide as well. Always been keen to visit the place and as I can't get there in the summer, may seemed like a good alternative. Probably do a couple of the classic slabby routes if it's warm enough and then head lower down for some other cragging.

Appreciate the advice

In reply to Sd00148:
I was there last May, got a gite really cheap as its out of season. Climbed there and on lower valley crags, great time to go as its quiet.

In reply to Sd00148:

50's will be Ok on all but a very few routes; and the guide is clear on the length of the abbs. As you have transport it's better to stay down in the main valley. Makes it easier to visit the wide choice of cliffs. I think Camping le verger is open year round and is quite pleasant.
http://www.campingleverger.com/#xl_xr_page_index

In reply to Gael Force:
Great. Thanks, if staying in ailefroide itself, which is likely to be all closed up by the sounds, would vallouise be the nearest 'open' town for shops, etc!? And if so how far is it from ailefroide by car? Might it be easier to stay in vallouise itself and drive for the climbing?

In reply to Sd00148:

Hi there I live down the road from Ailefroide 20 mins, as many have answered about rope i wont go over that,
i would go for the guidebook Briancon climb by JJ it is the newest version of the guide that covers all the sports cragging single and multi pitch in the area of the durance valley 3300 routes (about and hours drive from end to end) and include's nearly all of Ailefroide I think it can be brought from needle sports, this gives you options if the conditions are not great in Ailefroide.

most of Ailefroide will be shut the bars shops etc, there is a little snack bar/tea place that is run by a very cool old couple and they try and stay open all year, even when you have to ski tour in you can some times get a drink.

vallouise is 15 mins by car from Ailefroide, has a camp site (not sure when it opens) and lots of apartments, it will still be quite but the shops will be open and one bar/restaurant, like you said the end of May is the start of the kayak season, but only for the English, most start in june, and the summer season July.

depending on the winter season in may there can still be banks of snow at the bottom of routes in Ailefroide, we have not had great snow this year and i think you will be fine, but its still snowing here so just to be aware,

if you have any questions I am happy to help you can drop me a email at rob@dream-trails.com

cheers Rob

In reply to ecrinscollective:

Ah, that old couple with the snack bar are still there I recall meeting them about 14 or 15 years ago, very lovely people.

In reply to Sealwife:


We were there in late September and that was the only place open in the whole valley, we had quite a few brews there,

Chris

In reply to Sealwife:

they are still rocking it, very nice couple its the place to go a drink or a ice cream after a route.

In reply to ecrinscollective:
Will have to visit these two local legends by the sounds! Thanks for all advice so far looking forward to the trip and exploring not only ailefroide but the surrounding crags !

In reply to ecrinscollective:

The old bugger sneakily flogged us two bottles of alcohol- free beer last Easter when everything else was shut up

JW