UKC

Hi guys,

I am just after peoples thoughts/experiences. I am fairly new to trad climbing and when I have climbed outdoors I have generally done the same routes, whether it was because I was learning to lead or just experiencing trad for the first time.

I was climbing at Stanage the other day for the first time in 6 months and just to get myself back into it I went to the routes I know. After climbing a few familiar routes I thought it was time to spread my wings. I didnt look for anything more difficult or anything that was too adventurous, but whilst I was getting my rack sorted I got an overwhelming sense of nerves and was close to giving the climb a miss.

I did, in the end, crack on and do the climb without any problems, but I just wondered is it normal to feel these nerves before climbing something unfamiliar.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

In reply to DaveL1234:
Speaking as a very poor climber,I would say nerves are totally understandable and indeed,necessary to keep you focused.It's part of the appeal for me.However I need to read climbs more effectively before I start....that way I'll be more nervous at the bottom like you and less two thirds up at the crux! It's human nature, and I'm sure they'll subside.Do less of what you know and you'll be more used to it.Equally it is your body warning you where your limit is so be alive to that...I hope it was a good climb

In reply to DaveL1234:


Yes - but it's a question of degree. Think of it as having a comfort zone, a challenge zone and a breakdown zone (where it's all too much or you've been in the challenge zone too long).

Entering the challenge zone brings discomfort. It's a warning from your sub-conscious, protecting you. You need to listen to it, analyse it (via your conscious mind, obviously) and decide where to step into the challenge zone or step back.

Usually the key is to step in (little steps!) again and again. That way you get used to it.

This is why you had these feelings; they're perfectly normal.



With trad, little and often is generally the best way in. Good luck!

Mick

In reply to DaveL1234:

Yes. I get an uneasy feeling for climbs often, if I don't I often climb worse! Alot of the battle is mental, confronting demons and self doubt... Leading can be a lonely experience. I've found that I get the nerves less when I'm on form, for example if I've just been away onsighting hvs/e1 in the mountains or sea cliffs of Wales then I get back to some single pitch stuff in a quarry I'll happily warm up on an e1 and not be so scared. If I take a month off though it can quickly reset... I'll be quivering on a VS with disco leg and talk myself out of attempting an e1. I find myself having to go through the same battles at the start of each season. I think I must really love something about climbing to keep putting myself through this...