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Aberdeenshire Coastal climbing advice

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 freemanTom 28 Mar 2016
Hey folks,

Heading up Aberdeen way 5th -9th April. Bought guidebook but any local advice about best crags to visit appreciated.
Looking for friendly venues, easy access, not too much tidal issues, grade range mostly severe-vs but the odd class E1 would be good.
My browsing so far suggests
Logie head is an obvious choice.
The Graip looks ok
Will The Red Wall be bird free?

Oh and any campsite recommendations would be good.

Thanks in advance for any advice

Tom
 StuDoig 28 Mar 2016
In reply to freemanTom:

Logiehead is great, but a bit of a drive from Aberdeen - worth it though for a day / half day trip. If your looking at that kind of radius Pass of Ballater is good too for an inland option (often a good option if the coast is wet or the Haar is in)

Bird free is borderline at the minute for most - they are starting to re-appear unfortunately, not been to Red Wall area in a long time so can't comment.

Deceptive wall / long slough combo is pretty decent, only the former is tidal and the climbing is different between them.

Mielke partans is my favorite venue at the minute - great quality granite, non tidal, pretty sunny, easy access and just right for the spread of grades your talking about.

Clashrodney / Cairnrobin point is a good option too.

I quite like Floors Craig, but different style of climbing to others in the area and not obvious to find. Tidal as well so not really what your after.

Mixed tidal access but Souter head has good stuff across the grades and is easy to access and find.

The Graip is fairly good, but if traveling north I'd keep going to Miekle Partans!

Cheers and enjoy!

Stu

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