I have been trying, unsucessfully so far, to find a pair of winter climbing / mountaineering boots, that will be suitable for apline summer too. If they were B3 (or a least have welts both front and back) then that would also be desirable as it would like to experiment with some short decent skis and these require welts both ends for the bindings.
I bought some Scarpa Cristallos off ebay on a recomendation of a mate. I got the same size as my normal shoes, but they proved too small and hurt my toes. So I sold them back on ebay (for a small loss sadly).
So next I went a size bigger and got some Scarpa Charmoz mail order. These were prodominently bought for my first summer alps trip to the Ecrins. They were great for this apart from giving me blisters; One on my left little toe, and on the back of both heals. No amount of sock combinations have worked and they still give me heel blisters.
Plus the 2 winter Scottish trips, my feet have been freezing in them when stood belaying. I was wearing a thin coolmax sock and a trecker (both by Bridgedale). Maybe a thicker sock is in order? Or maybe my feet are not Scrapa compatible. Maybe the Charmoz are just not warm enough for Scottish winter? I have widish feet, and long toes, with my first toe being longer then my big toe. I was toying with some La Sportiva Nepals (not sure which model yet, maybe EVO). Whatever happens though, my next purchase will not be mail order / ebay as I have already lost more money in unsuitable boots than I have saved over the shop cost. Lesson learned too late sadly.
In reply to Smiffy: all b3 winter boots give me blisters the only options for me are some or all of the following:
Wear good padded socks (like the smart wool ones)
Use Vaseline or tape up feet
Condition my feet before I go out in anger with lots of progressively longer walks in stiff boots (at least some of these must be in the b3's) - this is the most important factor for me I think.
I rate the Nepal cube after getting a pair this season. They can be used for summer alpine as well, though carrying them up a rock route is a drag, hence I have done lightweight singer alpine boots as well... Depends on what summer alpine stuff you want to do?
3800-4000m in Ecrins. This will be classic mountaineering in that we will be ice axe / cramponing on snow slopes up to AD. It will not be any hard ice / rock climbing. I will probably walk in in some approach shoes to the foot of the glacier as I did last year. This was a lesson I learnt after trying to wlk in in my Charmoz and giving myself blisters and having to abort the climb, and also putting me out of action for 3 days.
In reply to Smiffy: If you have wide feet then the Salewa Pro Guide are warm and very comfy, especially with the ability to swap between walk (B2) and climb (B3) mode. They cup my heel really well too, no heel lift even on steep ice. I love mine.
I have wide feet and got Nepal extreme's one size up from my normal shoe size which although a little heavy have been comfortable with no blisters and minimal break in time.
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