UKC

Does anyone know the area around the Vallée d'Ossau?

We're looking at heading to the Pyrenees in September in search of remote walks, long scrambles and big easy climbs. Based on the Kev Reynolds "Walks and Climbs" book, the area around the Vallée d'Ossau - the Pic du Midi, the Gourette area and the Balaïtous massif - looks like it should tick our boxes.

Questions:
Have I got the right impression of the area?
Is there a decent guidebook for the mountain rock in the area? (We're happy to read French if necessary...)
Where are good places to be based? Laruns? Somewhere else?

Thanks!

Dave

In reply to Ramblin dave:
I'm from the area. There are very nice climbs up the Ossau (note there is no walk up), that might become a little bit technical but the normal route only includes three grade 2/3 chimneys that shouldn't be a challenge for anyone having climbed a little. Can be a bit busy though. Funny rock (andesite) unlike anywhere in the Pyrenees. The Petit Pic offers more difficult routes but there is usually a lot less people.
In any case, spend some time walking around the Ossau, the views are quite stunning.

The Balaitous might be a little bit more accessible, but it's also a "technical" mountain. Once again not a challenge if you climb but intimidating for hikers. Offers good views on the Vignemale massif but a nice place in itself.

Good huts all around both massifs.

Laruns is a good base if you really want to stay only around there. It's a big village with everything you need. If you want more activity, Oloron is a nice little town with a lot of cultural activity in summer (and a good climbing wall if needed). If you want to move out more (to Lescun, Gavarnie or Vignemale for example), this might also help to get out of the valleys.

The reference book for the Ossau is "La Vallee d'Ossau" by Alfonso & Buxo, in French or Spanish
For the Balaitous (and Pyrenees in general), "les plus belles courses" by Laurens but it only gives a couple of routes for each mountain. The book is a classic though
If you find one, "passages pyreneens " is the bible of the Pyreneist, but it is not published anymore: rare and expensive then.
The other resource is usually the "guides ollivier", with a flourish of routes, but little detail about them.
Camptocamp is probably all you need, but it's not as nice.

In reply to Ramblin dave:

Oh and around Gourette, there is the smallish but very nice Pène Sarrière with easily accessible scrambles and climbs. I think the book by Patrice de Bellefon "100 plus belles courses dans les Pyrenees" (nice book too) lists the South arete with AD

In reply to drolex:

Thanks, that's all really useful!

We're after doing stuff that's technical but not super hard - I'm guessing PD or AD on alpine rock routes. Looking at Camp to Camp, I think there should be plenty of good stuff for us to go at.

In reply to Ramblin dave:

I can lend you the Ollivier guidebooks and the vallee d'Ossau one if you want to make copies, if you can send them back before July. I can join some photocopies or digital copies of the other books (I'm not keen on letting them go away). PM me an address if you're interested.

In reply to Ramblin dave:
Les Plus Belles Courses" by Laurens has recently been translated into English, and is well worth a purchase:
https://www.v-publishing.co.uk/books/categories/climbing/mountaineering-in-...

Derek Walker's book which whilst very outdated is ok for ideas and inspiration. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rock-Climbs-Pyrenees-Cicerone-guide/dp/1852840390

http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingShop/Plaquettes-Dans-Les-Vallees-De... looks like a great area, and not far away either, I've not had the chance to explore the area yet...

Also the Vallée d'Aspe is worth a visit, with plenty of single and multi-pitch rock climbs: http://climbingaway.fr/fr/voyager/topos-guides-escalade/mature-et-autres-se...

and if the weather is poor in France, it can often be better on the Spanish side, in the Aragonese Pyrenees: http://www.needlesports.com/2624/products/roca-espana--pyrenees-and-aragon....

In reply to drolex:


That'd be brilliant, thanks! YHM...

In reply to Ramblin dave:

Gourette is a bit of a tip because of ski stuff but it is possible to climb the Pic de Ger from Les Eaux Bonnes via the Col de Coutchet and Turon du Ger without having to walk near ski lifts and so on.
Having said that, don't miss out on the Cirque de Lescun if you haven't been before.

In reply to Ramblin dave:

You have got to see Chemin de la Mature

It's simply amazing and excellent climbing apparently