UKC

Hi, about 5 months ago i brought myself some new Scarpa vs shoes and have been climbing in them ALOT. Small holes have developed on each tip of the toe and i wondered if anyone had advice on fixing them other than getting them resoled. the structure of the toe is still there as i can stand on a small edge on the toe without any pain its just theres no rubber left on them.
thanks for any advice

In reply to Drue:

If you're strapped, a puncture repair patch might last a day or two. But resoling them with a new toe patch is where you're headed. Feet first are good, and last a bit longer if you ask for 5mm rubber. https://www.resoles.co.uk/

...and work on your footwork!

In reply to Drue:

There's no real alternative to getting them resoled.

If you're climbing regularly then five months is a reasonable life for a pair of climbing shoes. The time to get them resoled is when the sole rubber is thin where it meets the rand, before you actually wear a hole in the rand, so you're a bit late but they should still be fine.

Most regular climbers end up with more than one pair of shoes on the go at any given time - at least a "best" pair for harder routes and an old/knackered/cheap/resoled pair for easy routes & training mileage.

In reply to Drue:

Honestly, apart from the ecological argument I really can't understand resoling.

I've never paid more than £40 for a pair of climbing shoes,, and more often than not they're below £30 (miuras, miura vs, instincts, bandits, anasazis e.t.c). Work out your size, set up an ebay search, and wait until some mug buys a pair 4 times too small and realises he/she can't climb in them.

In reply to neuromancer:

I'd love a new pair of Anasazi vcs in 11.5 for £40 or less if you can find any for me.

thanks everyone! Advice taken ill see what I can do

In reply to Drue:



Going out on a limb here - but I'd guess your footwork could do with some improvement. When I was a total novice (not just a bit of a novice like now), I wore a very similar pair of holes in in my shoes in about 8 months.
The next pair despite being climbed in almost twice as often, on mostly harder stuff - took closer to 14 months to start developing holes. My footwork originally was shocking, to say the least - and is now much less bad.

In reply to AlanLittle:

I estimate I get more than a year out of my shoes (normally a few on the go at a time).

As for the resole logic post from neuromancer: my feet have buinions and the shoes I have have have moulded well so I will resole untill they fall apart. I guess I should also say that I find it strange you are able to boast on a public website about being a parasite on other people's purchasing misfortunes.

In reply to Offwidth:
Really?

I'm sure in another post I've literally watched you derogate someone for buying climbing shoes without trying them on.

Why should we who have followed the long and lonely path to climbing shoe size nirvana not profit?

Or maybe you were just intentionally being rude.

In reply to Drue:

You'll have to get them resoled but to be honest I'd just pick up a pair of new shoes if you see some you like on offer. 6 months heavy use sounds about right for a climbing shoe but I've had some pairs a year or more before.

In reply to neuromancer:

For the record I've nothing against bargains, reselling stuff that would otherwise get chucked, etc. On shoes posts I might have been very critical of shop assistants selling overtight shoes to beginners or people boasting aboutt trying on in shops and buying new online (what happens when all the shops close?) but you are going to have to link the point you remember, as I dont. I do object to your tone but this is the internet and things come over wrong: Im sure you're a nicer person in real life.

In reply to Offwidth:


This is probably, though, because - as my wife regularly points out - I have:

1. the current pair of good redpoint shoes
2. the next pair of good redpoint shoes, bought in advance because I saw them on sale at a great price
3. the previous pair of good redpoint shoes, now used at the wall and for warm-ups (resoled)
4. the current pair of comfy multipitch shoes (resoled)
5. the current pair of good bouldering slippers
6 & 7. two older nearly worn out pairs of bouldering slippers.
8 & 9. two old knackered pairs of something or other that I never wear any more and should probably throw out.

The first seven all see regular use, so they last a lot longer than one pair for everything would. And iirc there's only one pair on the list that I paid anywhere near full price for.

(4. the current pair of comfy multipitch shoes aren't comfy enough so I need some others)

In reply to Offwidth:
Oh no, I'm being rude to you.

You called me a parasite for shopping on ebay.

Go fuck yourself.

In reply to neuromancer:
Not cool dude. Save the mud slinging for elsewhere.

In reply to AlanLittle:




Those are for drytooling.

In reply to Drue:

Resole if you can, but the toe box tension usually is irreparably damaged and the nature of the shoe may no longer be what you desire. It's worth a punt to see if it suites you

The other posters are talking cross purposes.

-Yes buying a barely used second hand pair of shoes cheap is great
-Yes resoleling your perfect shoes is great
-Yes trolling UKC is a legit past time

In reply to neuromancer:

I called you a parasite for seemingly celebrating the consistent ability to buy cheap shoes based on others buying them too small. Climbing has a long tradition of such parasitic behaviour, even at times plain theft, and celebrated in famed biographies (such as the Burgess Book of Lies). I'm still not sure you mean it, or could even know every pair of shoes was sold for that reason. The poster above is right: trolling is a hobby for some but if you are going to troll at least do it from an anonymous position of strength.... I can't see from your logbook profile why you would even need anything like the perfect fitting shoe.

In reply to Offwidth:
I regularly bought my kids rock shoes from ebay or UKC when their feet kept growing. They were always virtually brand new and at, say, £25 a throw a bargain.

Last year I had to sell a pair of my own that I stupidly bought too large and they felt like wellies when I climbed.

Why exactly are people thinking this behaviour (by necromancer) is unethical or unfair somehow? Seems to make perfect sense to me?

In reply to Babika:

I'm fine with bargains but saying " I've never paid more than £40 for a pair of climbing shoes.....set up an ebay search, and wait until some mug buys a pair 4 times too small and realises he/she can't climb in them." is almost certainly boasting about parasitic behavior.