UKC

There is something odd about the entry for Shorty's Dyno (Short Person's Method) (6c+). The grade listed is 6a but in my graphs after entering it I get my first 7a of the year and the cross reference to this note flashed the grade up on the screen as 7a although the value on the visible entry is 6a. The grade is difficult to assign as it is height dependent. 7a might be too high but 6a is clearly ludicrous: getting to the dyno is much harder than this. I suspect a typo somewhere?

In reply to harold walmsley:

Hi Harold

It's listed as a 6a in the North Wales Rockfax guide for some reason.

It's not 6a in my opinion, though it's impossible to pin a grade to it as it's so height and reach dependent...For me it felt like a 7a on the first ascent, but I'm only a shorty and had to dyno....

In reply to Sl@te Head:

I'm 5'9 and did it statically without it feeling reachy. I'm confused about how/why/off and to what you'd dyno on it. I remember it feeling 6bish but it was a while ago.

In reply to ad111:

There's a few ways of climbing this route, but for the short the best option is a Dyno from a poor foothold to the horizontal break, this is also the most enjoyable way of climbing the route imo. I've also climbed it statically using the square cut arête, but I have a positive ape index. The voting and comments on the UKC database probably confirm that it's not really a 6a unless you're really tall, but probably 7a for the short and anywhere in between for everyone else. It's just a fun route where the grade shouldn't really matter, though I think that Rockfax should change the given 6a grade for future editions of their guide.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

I wasn't really trying to highlight the grading debate so much as the inconsistency within the UKC system. The listed grade says 6a but when I add the route to my logbook my top grade for the year goes up from 6c to 7a so clearly in some parts of the system it is treated as 6a and in others as 7a. I was trying to flag up the inconsistency so it could perhaps be sorted out so it was one or the other or a single something in between.

As for the grade debate I'm quite tall and could do it statically without the arete. So could my companion who is quite short but it was much harder for him. If I can do it onsight it is probably no more than 6c for my height (about 6 foot).

In reply to harold walmsley:

There's a few inconsistencies with routes on here, with the Rockfax database / guidebook grades seemingly prioratised, even though voting on grades and stars on the UKC database give a different opinion. As a crag moderator you can't change routes which are in the Rockfax guides, well I can't anyway....

In reply to harold walmsley:

I have had a similar thing happen with Otley Wall (f6A). It gets 6a+ in the guide, and that's what it says on my graphs, but the entry says 5+. Interestingly when you sort my logbook by grade it sits alongside the 6a+'s, but still says 5+. An inconsistency somewhere in the database I imagine?

In reply to harold walmsley:

There are still a lot of discrepancies between UKC grades and Rockfax grades where the Rockfax route has over-ridden the UKC entry. It is vital for the system to function that we have routes fixed once they are linked with the Rockfax database. If we didn't have this then the whole App system would breakdown. This is why normal moderators can't modify routes or Buttress Dividers once they are linked with the RF Database.

There is a link on the moderator's pages next to each linked route to explain this and allow you to report a major discrepancy.

This does mean that some of the other bits of the logbook system don't function as expected, especially graphs, where the UKC entry is still being used despite the RF entry being displayed elsewhere. We are working through these slowly so please bare with us.

The long term plan is to dispense with the Rockfax database as a separate entity but this will take a lot of work. It will make this sort of thing much easier to manage though.

For the route Shorty's Dyno (Short Person's Method) (6c+) I have created two entries and linked a new 'Tall Person's method version' to the Rockfax entry. That will mean that there are some tall people who have ticked the route who will now be getting an inflated grade. They can change this but it will mean deleting one log, and then adding a new log for the other route.

Shorty's Dyno (Short Person's Method) (6c+)
Shorty's Dyno (Tall Person's Method) (6a)

Alan

In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Thanks for the explanation and solution. I actually thought 6a was probably a typo somewhere as I didn't think anyone could have seriously thought that 6a was a suitable grade. In my view both getting up to the dyno and then getting set on the starting holds for the dyno or the static are more than 6a. I know it is only one opinion but I found both these sequences harder than 1066 (6b), done same day and given 6b.