UKC

Ey up, looking at the next set of shoes to start breaking in for a summer assault on bouldering, looking at the speedster and genius out of curiosity if owt but wondered if there actually good shoes? Speedsters are pretty good value at 85 quid

In reply to Yorkieboy:


I think the Genius work really well for grit bouldering, not been as convinced by them on limestone sport, at least at Malham anyway.

In reply to Yorkieboy:

Not used the Genius, but the Speedsters are really good bouldering shoes - very supple and thin soles so you can tell what's going on under your foot, and pretty good for heel-hooks considering they're a slipper.

I've not felt I've suffered by not having edges, though I don't think I'd fancy using them on long multi-pitches or slabby routes, and I think they've lasted as well - if not better - than normal edged shoes I've had

(and obviously they need to be the right shape for your feet)

In reply to Yorkieboy:

I got a new pair of the genius 2 weeks ago and I'm wholly impressed! Admittedly I've only used them indoors and on grit...

I've also got a pair of the Scarpa Instict Vs which seem to be pretty darn good at just about everything!

In reply to Yorkieboy:

(Insert all the standards caveats about "if they suit your foot shape" etc.)

As someone who's not the best on overhangs, I've found that the sensitivity of the Speedsters does seem to make a difference when trying to learn decent footwork for overhanging stuff -- I can feel much more precisely exactly where my foot is on a hold and whether I'm actively exerting force on it.

So the no-edge thing isn't a gimmick, and it can be informative.

Obviously, they'd be rubbish on slabs or anything where you need to edge on tiny sharp edges, but if you're willing to splash out on a specialist shoe for steep stuff (or you're an obsessive shoe geek like me), they're definitely worth a look.

In reply to Yorkieboy:

I have an alternative view to the majority of posters. I tried them on a taster evening thing and wasn't overly enamoured. I prefer my Solutions or Dragons.

I might be weird though!

In reply to Yorkieboy:

I've worn the Futuras and was impressed, VERY sensitive indeed. Too soft for sport really, bouldering only.
They managed credit card sized jibs admirably, they rely on the rubbers friction rather than having your weight on an edge.

Id go for the futuras personally for bouldering, Genius if you'll ever use them for more than that.

In reply to Hertz32:

I did my two hardest sport routes at Malham and Kilnsey (and St Leger) last year in Futuras - a lot of sport routes rely more on bad smears than edges so I found the sensitivity and stickiness nicely reassuring. Increasingly noticing Genius wearers at Malham this year too. And, more obviously they are very well suited to smeary grit bouldering and steep roofs where you have to brace your feet against nuthins'.

That said, if they do not fit your foot shape (and they have to be pretty tight to feel right) it doesn't matter how cheap they are or how much other people like them.

In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
Fair enough! My comment about them being less suited to sport was mostly in regard to them being soft and more fatigeing for your feet on multi pitch.
That said, if you are multi pitching then a downturend shoe probably isn't what you are after...

In reply to Hertz32:

Cheers for help folks ! Think im going for speedster..just hope banana fingers size guide helps pick best size first time...then ebay mission

In reply to Yorkieboy:

I'd just buy from bananafingers. Their service is A*. Just buy two pairs from them and send one back, their returns policy is the best.