UKC

Does anyone happen to know who put up the fairly recent 7b Timmy's Poorly Hand?
What about the bolted finish of Empire and Revolution?

Thanks.

In reply to bpmclimb:
No idea but if this is to do with the guide update, it'd be good to have the start of TPH clarified and note that being tall makes it 7a ish.

*EDIT* to be fair, the 6c's are all probably harder on this wall but I can imagine it being harder if you're short or we used the incorrect starting holds (very possible).

In reply to bpmclimb:
John Corber did Timmys Poorly hand

In reply to cha1n:

I tried it straight up and couldn't even get off the ground! From other's comments, an approach in more from the side makes it MUCH easier.

In reply to hms:

We started with our right hand on an obvious large hold, it was still a burly foot by your hand move but OK. If it's not in then you'd really have to have your blinkers on as I don't think it was even a metre of the centre line of the bolting but I do have bad memory. I do know that I wouldn't have used a hold that's clearly off route.

As I say, if specific starting holds are detailed then it'll be easier to make sure you're doing in the way the FA did.

In reply to bpmclimb:

Is it absolutely certain that the bolted finish of Empire and Revolution isn't the original route? Or, to put it another way, has the description in the 1997 guide - "Gain the first bolt easily; then make hard moves to the second. Finish direct." - been shown to be inaccurate? I've no idea, and presumably something prompted the change from one edition of the guide to the next.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Interesting. I can see why some climbers might feel the need to sneak off sideways - that's where the hardest moves are IIRC - but then to make that the main route description wouldn't be on. There must be some other reason, you would think.

In reply to hms:


Although how one would do that without sharing holds on neighbouring routes I don't know - even the direct line looks pretty squeezed-in.

In reply to bpmclimb:

I've always thought that the bolted finish was the original line - I don't think alone with that view. I bumped into the chap responsible for the new bolt a week after it was done, and if my memory is correct, he thought that the original was supposed to go straight up - going into the corner always seemed like cheating. Unfortunately, I can't remember who bolted it!

In reply to whenry:

Just noticed this from FA John Hartley on the CC website; scroll down to penultimate entry. It certainly seems to confirm that the route always finished direct.

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/information-summary-list/new-routes-archive/...

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Thanks for confirming, Ian - good to know I've not been misleading people on that route!