UKC

The Gower - Current Conditions

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 mop449 23 May 2016


I am coming to the gower to sport climb (low/mid 7's) for the bank holiday weekend. Weather looks... ok. What crags are in condition/stay dry in showers? Any other information for gower climbing would be welcome.
 CurlyStevo 24 May 2016
In reply to mop449:

three cliffs bay will be fast drying over much of it as its predominantly detached rock with little vegetation on it.
 The Ivanator 24 May 2016
In reply to mop449:

Mostly Gower Limestone is super fast to dry, certainly Sports venues like Foxhole, Watch House and Three Sisters will be. Lower Tier at Bowen's Parlour and some Rhossili stuff (especially Mermaid's Wall can hold the moisture a bit longer. Not too sure what stays dry in rain, but places like Zulu Zawn and Shipwreck Cove (Rhossili) are certainly steep enough to be worth a look - all a bit beyond my grade so can't offer better advice than that.
You'll need to assess tides carefully for Rhossili based stuff and having a tarp there to stop your rope getting sandy is definitely an advantage. Bowen's Parlour and sections of Watch House East are tidal too.
 The Ivanator 24 May 2016
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Aye, should be re-branded as a garden centre.
OP mop449 24 May 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

Thanks, that's super helpful. I was looking at Bowen's as a maybe, but if it holds moisture i'll give it a miss. Also, didn't know Rhossili was tidal. I'm keen to give The Raven at Minchen Hole a go.
OP mop449 24 May 2016
In reply to CurlyStevo:

That's mad!!! I climbed there a few years back and it was super clean and had a bit of traffic. Has it just been neglected?
 Michael Hood 24 May 2016
 The Ivanator 24 May 2016
In reply to mop449:

The slab below the Shelob cave really was that bad (the first photo) when I climbed there in September 2012 the other side of East Gully Groove (where the Ring etc. are situated) is a little better (especially once height is gained, but the crag does have a neglected feel.
 The Ivanator 24 May 2016
In reply to mop449:

Third Sister Third Sister to Zulu Zawn is a very clean and quick drying, non tidal, Sports crag with excellent routes, some great low 6s (good warm ups), a classic 6c Twlight World (6c) and several great looking 7bs - could be a good option.
The most recent Rhossili developments are not in the recent selective guide, but topos are here:
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Rhossili_Sea_Level
you need a good spring low to get a decent climbing window, especially for Mermaid Wall, you probably get an extra hour either side of the low at Shipwreck Cove (perhaps 6 -7 available hours here with a spring) which may be of more interest at your grades.
 Skyhook 25 May 2016
In reply to The Ivanator:

> The most recent Rhossili developments are not in the recent selective guide, but topos are here:


The original poster may also like to check out the new development at Rhossili - Black Buttress Right.

http://swmc.org.uk/wiki/Rhossili_Upper_Crags#Black_Buttress_Right
 CurlyStevo 25 May 2016
In reply to mop449:

I doubt paviland has ever been super clean are you confusing with juniper wall?
OP mop449 27 May 2016
In reply to CurlyStevo:

I was
 luke glaister 28 May 2016
In reply to mop449:

Definitely get on the raven. It's quality. And my must do route for the year. I ran out of juice 2 or 3 moves from the top. Been training stamina since and am ready for a return now. Not this weekend tho. Hopefully Left Wall (E2 5c)Left Wall (E2 5c) will get done. My must do trad route of the year. Feeling nervous already. Lol. Have a cracker where ever u go.
Luke.

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