UKC

Finale ligure recommendations

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bozza 24 May 2016
Hi all

I'm off to Finale this weekend, and i'm after recommendations of crags / routes to get on. There's masses in the guide and its a bit overwhelming for a 4 day visit. After good single pitch grags / routes upto 7a, and ideally some longer multipitch stuff upto 6b

and while I'm here, any other tips / hints etc from anyone who's been would be appreciated.

Thanks
 Morgan Woods 24 May 2016
In reply to bozza:

Silenzio is a nice crag with slightly more friendly grades than some of the old school areas and has the classic 7a l'Avvocato but also lots in the 6's.
 Jim Hamilton 24 May 2016
In reply to bozza:

Assuming you are coming from FL then choices could be narrowed to the closer/more convenient parking, say the road to the Perti nord parking or Valle Aquila. Then wade through the guidebook. I wouldn't have thought you will be disappointed with whatever crag you end up at (so long as you can find it!).
 mark catcher 25 May 2016
In reply to bozza:
Be sure to eat at the spaghetti place in the square in Borgo; great food, climbers shop a few doors down for local knowledge and the best ice cream in town opposite. Enjoy.
1
 JR 25 May 2016
In reply to bozza:

One of the best very quiet crags with 6c-7b we visited was Rocca della Basura. Good for a day of well bolted powerful routes, very tufa climbing. Aleppe and Paracelso were great fun at 6c/7aish and both very flashable.

youtube.com/watch?v=OGE0gURSYYE&
Post edited at 10:00
bozza 25 May 2016
In reply to bozza:

cheers everyone. i'll take a look at those. Any recommendations for some easier long multipitch stuff? there seems to be quite a bit at bric pianarella...
 ThomSank 25 May 2016
In reply to bozza:
silenzio is a beautiful crag but unbearably hot at this time of the year. Rocca di Perti is also very much in the sun from midday onwards.

BORAGNI is mostly in the shade, VAL DI NAVA (e.g. FALESISA DEL SOLE) or BRIC SCIMARCO are only sunny in the mornings. If you plan on visiting the Oltrefinale area, ENOTECA is another beautiful crags with lots of routes in your range.

have fun!
Post edited at 12:25
bozza 26 May 2016
In reply to bozza:

Thanks.

Anyone else? Flying out tonight
 CPH 26 May 2016
In reply to bozza:
Avancorpo - some new and older routes; parking on the bend, easy, quick access.
Sasso Scorpion - Backdoor; near above, same parking area, pleasant spot, easy access if time short.

You will hear autostrada traffic noise at some crags: not at the above though.
The Monte Cucco camping area is unpleasant.
Post edited at 13:29
 neilh 26 May 2016
In reply to bozza:

Strugilo progressivo- or somthing like that on Monte cucco. An appropriate name as the higher up you get the more of a struggle it becomes...
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