UKC

Hi,

Currently deciding between two harnesses: a BD Momentum DS, which I much prefer, and a Petzl Corax.

However, while not doing any extreme ascents or ice climbing, I would need to carry the occasional ice screw/tool. The Petzl has two ice clipper slots, the BD has none. Can I still carry them (somehow) on the BS? What is the reason for the specific ice clipper slots (fast access when needed)?

I'd use the harness mostly for sports climbing and viae ferratae (99% of uses) + the BD is by far more comfortable, but it'd be a shame not be able to use it on my upcoming Alpine course.

Thanks!
Treck

In reply to Treck:

If you only need to carry the odd screw then go for the more comfotable harness. Ice screw clippers are great for carrying larger numbers of screws and accessing them easily when ice climbing. The harness slots help to hold the clippers steady as you remove each screw but for carrying one or two screws, for instance during glacier travel, you can just clip them on the normal gear loops.

In reply to Treck:

I wouldn't worry, you'll be fine. People were fast and efficient on both steep ice and in the Alps long before any special ice screw holders came along.

Better to make sure you have end caps on the screws as you won't really use them much, if at all in the alps, but they will be in and out of your bag etc.. so make sure you protect the rest of your kit and bag. Or have something to wrap them in when you put them away, old crampon bags are good.

In reply to summo:


This is a good point. If you want a cheap and cheerful protector for 3 or 4 ice screws whilst they're in your pack, cut the bottom 6" off a 1 litre plastic milk container.

In reply to Treck:

Thanks for all the answers. You guys rock!

In reply to AdrianC:

This is top tier information, I had been thinking about this question recently, I will prepare a couple for next season!