In reply to zimpara:
For what it's worth, I'd recommend a simple tibloc. It's light, simple and does the job as well as any device. This is coming from someone who's unfortunately tested this in practice... Whilst moving together on a route, 60m of rope between us, I triggered a large rockfall which hit and seriously injured my partner. He was knocked off the face by the rockfall. He estimates he only fell 5m, probably due to there being little slack in the system. Much to our surprise and that of Chamonix's PGHM, the rope that we were using (a Beal 8.1mm ice line) showed barely any sign of damage. It took us a while to work out even where the tibloc had trapped the rope. Only a little bit of sheath damage. Just a sample of one, but thought it might be useful to inject some real world data into a thread like this.