UKC

Hi
Been doing some sport climbing this summer, and wanna expand my rack with some nuts
to give trad ago, any advice on make, size wise and how many would greatly appreciated
Thnx

In reply to Oldbro3:

I'd get 2 sets of 10. A standard set like these
http://www.needlesports.com/2799/products/wild-country-rock-on-wire-1-10-se...

and a set of wallnuts like these

http://www.needlesports.com/33530/products/dmm-wallnuts-on-wire-set-1-11-.a...

Supplement these with a few cams and you're good to go with most trad climbs.

In reply to Oldbro3:
It'll depend what you're climbing on as to which sizes will work for you but my initial rack consisted of a set of WC Classic Rocks (1-10), DMM Offsets (7-11) and an old set of WC Hexes. I also got some old Friends from a friend. These all did me fine for some winter and simple trad up to E1. I've subsequently added a set of small DMM Wallnuts (1-6) and Black Diamond Micro's that I got a deal on, but the wallnuts were mainly to pad out the bottom end of the rack on longer 60m pitches. If you're climbing on grit I'd probably focus on larger wires (and large cams/hexes) whereas I find the larger wires and hexes are barely used on my rack, most of my placements are size 6 and below. Bigger, and I tend to find myself using cams.

I think the key is to get the stuff that gives you a good spread for what you're likely to climb, and then pad out to suit what you like using and what suits the stuff you find yourself on the most. I'd be inclined to go for BD Stoppers rather than the WC Rocks though if I was buying again as they've got an extra taper which can come in handy (and has done on the few occasions I've used them from a partner's rack).

Oh, and get a nutkey...

In reply to Cloverleaf:


I agree with this!

DMM Wallnuts are superb though. Perfect shape.

In reply to Removed User:

I really like using Wallnuts on lead as they seem to fit in so many places, but there's no avoiding that they're more awkward to remove on 2nd than Rocks (as several of my 2nds would attest to). The nutkey suggestion was probably directed most of all to the Wallnuts!

In reply to Oldbro3:

I'd get yourself this:

http://www.dicksclimbing.com/products/dmm-protection-set

& these

http://www.dicksclimbing.com/collections/slings-cord/products/dmm-11mm-dyne...

And you'll definitely be good to go.

To be honest thought the rack that I currently have only contains a full set of nuts, a couple of hexes and some slings and as a beginner (i've lead up to HVS), it's coping just fine.

In reply to Le Chevalier Mal Fet:

Good post, nothing else needs to be said.

In reply to Oldbro3:
Thanks for the info
Plenty of options to mull over

In reply to chrismcd:

+1 for the DMM protection set, it's a great value starter kit.

You will need slings (60cm and some long, e.g. 2x 2.4m), a few extra krabs, nut key, some screwgates and a prussik.