UKC

Who's done the Italian Normal Route on Mont Blanc? Looking for some info on the best descent route, route finding and general experiences...
Cheers,
Tim

In reply to timw1:
I did this with a friend in early July. It was brilliant; quiet, wild, remote...etc, etc as all the guide books say. We came back down the same way but got badly held up by another large party phaffing which cost us a lot of time, hence glacier decent and return to hut was like wading in porridge so not sure I'd do that again. I'd certainly do the route again and much more preferable (for me) than the normal French routes. If I did it agin I'd go straight over and descend via Cosmiques or Gouter. The walk up to the hut is a good day in itself and worth taking the time to enjoy. Parking at the bottom maybe problematical now in August due to volume of TMB traffic. If you can't park near the barrier there is a good shuttle bus service with plenty of parking further down the valley. We had very good clear weather and navigation was completely straight forward on a pretty well defined track. There are a lot of crevasses so you need to keep your wits about you (obviously). The hut gets you up for breakfast at midnight and we left at 01:00. If you decide to go, good luck. J

In reply to strawhall:

Thanks for the response, glad it worked out well for you! I think for us the choice is between returning back down the same way or descending via the Gouter. As you say, descending the same way could be pretty hard work on the glacier but alternatively descending down the Gouter would require crossing the Grand Couloir fairly late in the day, which I would rather avoid. Good to hear that the route was pretty well defined though. In terms of the hut, do you reckon there is anywhere descent to bivvy nearby? I think summiting without lifts or huts is something nice to aim for Also, about hut availability - do you reckon phoning up the Gonella the day before is sufficient if bivvying doesn't work out?
Cheers,
Tim

In reply to timw1:

Good to see a worthwhile exchange of sensible and useful information on Alpine in UKC. Pitty there are not ,ore of them.

In reply to timw1:

We booked the hut the day before without a problem. Can't remember how much it was but there is a winter room with self catering facilities which would be cheaper if you just want a bed. There could be bivvy options on the glacier above the hut but then you'd be carrying more gear up. The guardian speaks good English.

In reply to timw1:

I came down this way on Thursday just gone. The condition of the glacier above the hut is still very good (considering the time of year) with a very good track to follow...it weaves around a bit but certainly finds the best way through a considerable maze of crevasses. Currently a few steep, though v short, icy sections. From the Piton des Italiens the track to the summit well travelled with the combined traffic from the Bionassay too.
As mentioned the walk in to the Gonella hut is far from a short stroll, so an early start will allow for finding the best way once on the Glacier du Miage ( sporadic cairns but higher up a decent track as its still mostly snow covered)...and more importantly getting plenty of time to rest before the midnight breakfast. I think the most relevant beta is found in the pocket guide by Francois Damilano to the most popular modest routes on Mt Blanc...available in English.
Gonella hut is very welcoming and friendly too.

Tim

In reply to timw1:
Descended via the Gonella hut after going up via the Tournette Spur a few weeks ago. Was much more satisfying doing it lift free and only having the crowds for a short time on Bosses Ridge though the descent went on a bit!

In reply to timw1:

Thanks for all the useful info guys - much appreciated. Looking forward to checking it out myself
Cheers,
Tim

In reply to machars:
How was Tournette? That is very high up on my "to do" list? J

In reply to timw1:

Did the Goûter route end July, crossing the couloir was not a big deal late morning on the way up and early afternoon on the way down. There were sporadic discharges of mostly small rocks, maybe every 10-15 minutes, but you are exposed for all of 20 seconds. If there's nothing on its way down when you set out, there's not much danger of being hit. Plus the climbers higher up on the ridge set up a big racket when anything comes loose.

The biggest problem of the return was having to wait 2 hours for a place on the Tramway du Mont Blanc, and then another 2 hours to get back through the Mont Blanc Tunnel (my car was on the Italian side). Things to bear in mind for the logistics of the trip.

As for bivying at the Gonella hut, I don't know anyone who's ever tried it, but the place is on a rocky spur above the glacier and there's not a lot of flat ground. Also, if you're planning a traverse, the Italian normal route is very long (+1,800m). If it were me, I wouldn't want to be packing any extra weight. You shouldn't have a problem getting a booking at Gonella, but maybe a day's notice is a bit short. Usual practice is to book early and confirm 2-3 days in advance when you have an idea of the weather.

Using lifts and huts is not cheating. They're part of the Alpine experience. Unless you're strapped for cash of course, as they are not cheap.

In reply to timw1:

Concur with other comments. The walk in is a great adventure in itself - among the more spectacular hut walks in the Alps - savour it! Did it yonks ago, but some memories:
- lots of crevasses in the glacier, in the dark, interesting routefinding....
- a steep icy bit somewhere on the ridge - maybe worth taking an ice screw, just in case;
- 'lost' all the other parties on the glacier (we probably lost a bit of time..), so had the feeling of more or less climbing alone, until you hit the French route - wonderful.
- descended to the Aiguille mid station - just in time for the last 6 pm lift down. No idea if this is still possible with changing glaciers, so ask around...
- I think this was one of those huts where the wine is cheaper than the water.......
Enjoy - I thought it was a great route

In reply to testagrigia:

I think you were lucky with the Grand couloir, not everybody is, it's best avoided...I've seen horrific stonewall there late afternoon...

In reply to Tim Neill:

Cheers for the book recommendation. Received a copy today and it looks fantastic!

In reply to Jim 1003:

Conditions have been a lot better this year, especially compared to 2015 when they closed the route. It was fairly cold on Mont Blanc when we were there. Plus we crossed the couloir reasonably early in the day on the way up and on the way down. I can well believe it's a place you don't want to be on a warm afternoon.

In reply to machars:

Good effort doing the Tournette! Very remote wild route isn't it, real mountaineering not Blackpool with mountains, and what a hut situation!

How is the access route to the bivy hut currently? When I did it, getting to the hut was far more serious than anything on the route itself.

In reply to Simon4:

Worth noting that the Quintino Sella hut is closed for repair work according to the last update from here; http://www.chamoniarde.com/?page_id=1863&lang=en