UKC

We are planning a climbing/chill out camper van trip to France in October with the following requirements

Good sport climbing in upper 6s, lower 7s

Very easy access as Maggie (belayer) will be recovering from a knee replacement op and will be using a stick to get around

Nice and warm (and dry!) in October

Dog friendly

Plenty to do on non climbing days (probably alternated with climbing days), rustic villages, hire open canoes etc.

What areas and crags would you suggest or recommend?

Thanks

In reply to kevin stephens:

101 views but no help; that bad?

In reply to kevin stephens:

I can't climb those grades ! I really enjoyed Orpierre in October but it's not exactly roadside. Have you looked at the Tarn ?

In reply to kevin stephens:

Buoux would match a lot of your criteria.

In reply to Morgan Woods:


As would Ariège, but without so much polish and with more shady options

In reply to Morgan Woods:

... and with more caves, canoeing, Cathar castles, etc.

In reply to john arran:

hmmm, forgot Ariege, was there 2 years ago in Sept (at yours!) was too hot. I'll dig out the guide. Have you got toppos for your recent developments?

In reply to kevin stephens:

oops! Too hot in October - unlucky. But surely it would have been fine in the shade?
My latest crag is just around the corner from our house - 10 minutes walk. 12 routes from 6a to 8a, most of them 30-35m, big strong lines, sustained and not too cruxy, in shade until about 1pm and then sunny, although still in need of traffic to clear residual looseness. I'm updating a topo right now so hopefully will have it ready in the next few days.
Plenty of others on http://cafma.free.fr/plan.htm too, some of which will no doubt make it into he next version of the guide. Plenty going on.

In reply to john arran:

thanks John

In reply to kevin stephens:

Hi Kevin,

Can't really help on the base as I have not done much in France outside of the Alpine areas and the Verdon but I can suggest a stop off in Dijon on the way. It will certainly break the journey up for you en route. I found the climbing at Cormot very interesting. Think Chudleigh Rocks on bigger and better scale (50 metres or so high). It is well worth a few days to break up the journey. Access is pretty easy. Short 5 minute walk. Good campsites and wine tasting nearby.

I have had friends who went to Finale recently and said it was fantastic. They had a small child with them so access could not have been too bad. I realise it is Northern Italy but it may be worth considering.

Enjoy the trip.

In reply to kevin stephens:

Hiya Kev. What about a tour centred near Aix-en-Provence? Ste Victoire (v easy access) on your doorstep. Calanques not far away. And it's a lovely town. Move NW toward Avignon (even lovelier and much culture and historic interest (Palais des Papes and a certain bridge) for Orgon - never been but have meant to for years - campsite and ultra easy access I understand. Around here you're on the edge of The Luberon district with legendary quaint villages eg Bonnieux, Menerbes, Buoux, as well as canoeing (including easy hires) opportunities (Rhone, Durance, Sorgue, Ardeche not that far away). Over towards Arles (Superb Roman amphitheatre) is Les Alpilles (not climbed there either). Move SE and you have the crags around Toulon and then you're at the seaside with the superb Hyere close by.

I've picked at the edges of some of the crags over the years and visited many of the towns and villages but have yet to achieve a long planned tour of the type you envisage. A word of caution - I'm told the likelihood of car theft at The Calanques is as bad now as it was in 1972 when I was last there. Anyway, on reflection, the approaches there may not be in your scope at present.

On the other hand the Ariege suggestion is great - I've been 3 times, 2ce in October when the weather has been ideal except for higher areas eg Dent d'Orlu. And Finale - apart from anything else it has the village square in Final Borgo - surely the best ever spot for your post climb beer at dusk?

Avagudun and let me know where you end up. Cheers.