In reply to cannichoutdoors:
The OHM updates are all you need to know really, especially if you go back through them for the whole season. They mention good/bad weather spells and impact on routes. I gather from people out there that conditions are great for the time of year, some days it's too hot overnight but the glaciers and schrunds are generally passable. Not too dry like this time last year or too snowy like the year before.