UKC

Short half ropes.

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 Anti-faff 21 Aug 2016
Does anyone know if it's possible to buy short half ropes anywhere? About 30 metres for cragging on grit and moors sandstone.

I've had a look around (Needlesports, V12, Bergfreunde, Rock and Run et al) but no joy.

I've considered getting a pair of 60s, cutting them in half and selling the other halves but not sure if I could bring myself to cut them! I've been using a 50 m single folded in half but find it a bit numb when giving slack quickly and miss having two different colours.

Thanks.
 deacondeacon 21 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:
I'd recommend just using a folded (or you could cut it I suppose) 60m half.
The different colour thing really is a non issue that you'll get used to straight away.
3
 PPP 21 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:

Cut a bi-pattern half rope? Or just find someone else who wants thirties as well.
 slab_happy 21 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:

There are a few ropes that have a pattern change in the middle:

http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/edelrid-topaz-92mm-bicolour-ps-ds-ts-p-3337....

Since it's triple-rated, it could work if you want something where you can double it up to use as half ropes but also have the option of using it as a single.

Needlesports will sell you a 30m half rope:

http://www.needlesports.com/32700/products/mammut-twilight-dry-7-5mm-30m.as... (N.B. very thin)
http://www.needlesports.com/32629/products/beal-iceline-golden-dry-unicore-...

Which turns out from the description to mean that they'll chop a 60m in half, but then at least you won't have to do the deed yourself ...

And this is rated as a single and a double, and might be more sturdy:

http://www.needlesports.com/954/products/mammut-serenity-dry-8-7mm-30m-rand...
 John Kelly 22 Aug 2016
In reply to deacondeacon:

> The different colour thing really is a non issue that you'll get used to straight away.

don't know how you could possibly think that but it would be boring if we were all of same opinion

FWIW -when climbing on doubles i find it much easier to pay out the correct amount of rope at the right time with different coloured ropes and dislike climbing on one rope doubled because of this loss of function (would love a bicoloured rope for this job)

i use both systems fairly regularly






 Pbob 22 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:

I think the shop at the Leeds Wall was selling exactly that.
OP Anti-faff 23 Aug 2016
In reply to Pbob:
Thanks, I'll check it out.
 Wayne S 23 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:

Hi you can def. buy half ropes in 30m, I have a pair of 30 meter ropes described as 8.3mm ice lines. Though in reality they are 8mm Mammut Phoenix. Pretty sure Outside have some 30s in at moment, but would be suprised if Needle sports and others didn't also have. They really save a lot of faff on short routes.
 1poundSOCKS 23 Aug 2016
In reply to John Kelly:

> don't know how you could possibly think that
> i find it much easier to pay out the correct amount of rope at the right time with different coloured ropes

Not sure how colour helps much? Isn't it just clipping left or right, and obviously paying out left or right.
 Wayne S 23 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-

Sorry Mamut Glacier Line 8.3mm PROTECT 30m (not ice line!) showing in stock at Outside!
 John Kelly 23 Aug 2016
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
'left and right' - doesn't work that well for me but when i think about it maybe the 2 colour thing is not as obvious/intuitive for everyone as i thought

when belaying
i can sometimes work out which rope i need to feed next from shape of route but i use the colour to do this
also if i cannot see which rope is needed next, hidden by leaders body, i will ask what colour next and feed or prepare to feed slack
that said my partner only ever feeds slack (or indeed gives any indication of being alive) after several minutes of shouting and brutal hauling so perhaps i shouldn't bother


Post edited at 23:42
OP Anti-faff 24 Aug 2016
In reply to Wayne S:

Hi Wayne,

Great stuff! Thanks very much.
 GrahamD 24 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:

Personally I'd always start with chosing a rope I like using (I have pretty much always chosen Mammut Genesis as I like the handling and the durability) and if its too long, I'll put up with the aggro.

Of course as you climb more, you will end up updating your rope and when that happens, You can cut the more worn ends off the older 60m rope to give you a 40m or so. That way you will always have a 40m and a 60m.
 Dark-Cloud 24 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:

Just check on the Glacier Line, not sure if its the same animal as a normal double, for instance, this warning would suggest otherwise:

----Glacier half rope with SuperDry finish. Only available in 30 and 40 m lengths.

----*Under no circumstances is this to be used as a single rope for mountaineering or rockclimbing.

I linked to a Dicks Climbing special the other day, a 9.8mm single that you can buy in a 30M length, it was dry treated too for £55
 1poundSOCKS 24 Aug 2016
In reply to John Kelly:

> i can sometimes work out which rope i need to feed next from shape of route but i use the colour to do this
also if i cannot see which rope is needed next, hidden by leaders body, i will ask what colour next and feed or prepare to feed slack

Thanks. Was wondering if you spent half the time staring at your belay device.

Did the single half rope thing on Sunday at Stanage, and the leader saying 'clipping left' (or right) can work well.
 jkarran 24 Aug 2016
In reply to Anti-faff:

I'm not sure what difference a folded rope makes to how the slack pays out. Tie into the mid point if you really believe it causes problems. A 60m rope is way more useful than a pair of 30s.
jk
OP Anti-faff 24 Aug 2016
In reply to jkarran:

It isn't that it's folded that makes it tricky it's that it's a fat single, and a fat furry one at that.

Almost all of my climbing is on really short crags with the occasional sojourn to N Wales or the Lakes when I use my partner's 60 metre halves. Therefore another 60 m rope isn't really way more useful for me.

I'd rather have a pair of short halves so I can carry one and my partner the other and, although I'm aware I could just say, "Slack on left/right" when communicating with my belayer, I just find it easier with different colours.

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