UKC

Climbing in belgium

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 rhinomarsh 04 Sep 2016
Me and my girlfriend are going to Belgium for a week and plan on climbing! I've had a brief look about on the Internet and can't find a great deal as far as topos and places to stay! Can anyone who has been help me out with some experienced info?
 Sl@te Head 04 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:

Freyr

Camping and hut at top of crag, very impressive crag but very, very polished!
 nniff 04 Sep 2016
In reply to Sl@te Head:

What he said. Some of the routes were really polished 30 years ago - especially the classic VDiff with the in-situ pendulum/trapeze. It got a lot worse when they really went to town with the bolts.

There are also some really good slate-esque slabs a few miles further up river
OP rhinomarsh 04 Sep 2016
In reply to jimtitt:

Nice! Cheers!
 Bulls Crack 04 Sep 2016
In reply to jimtitt:

Some of those sports venues look as bad as some of ours
 ianstevens 04 Sep 2016
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Some of those sports venues look as bad as some of ours

Impossible.
 planetmarshall 04 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:

Bit of an odd choice for a climbing trip to be honest, but for what it's worth -

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=646162&v=1#x8369297
http://luak.be

Andrew.
 Greasy Prusiks 04 Sep 2016
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I won't have that said!




Some of our sport crags are abysmal.
 douwe 04 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:
Freyr is nice but very polished (as already mentioned above). Also be aware that some of the routes are bolted with 'character', e.g. you can hit the ground clipping the third bolt.
Access is regulated, you need to be a member of an UIAA recognised climbing federation. You can be asked for proof of membership at the crag.
Post edited at 19:51
 Francois R 04 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:

Le plat pays!

Freyr is very polished indeed, but still a good crag.
 Timmd 04 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:

I have the impression that Luxembourg which shares a boarder with Belgium is good for rock climbing (or better than Belgium).
 Timmd 04 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:

My impression may be wrong, but here's some info anyways...

http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingLuxembourg.html
In reply to Timmd:

Berdorf is a beautiful crag with superb bolted sandstone routes. Access is awkward though and you now need a permit to climb there although the permits are free.

Thread here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=538334

Alan
OP rhinomarsh 05 Sep 2016
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Yeh I've been there! I love it, just my lass wants to try somewhere else as our permits ran out for berdorf!
With her being Dutch she has to obey the rules!! I may be able to talk her into going there though!
 WaterMonkey 05 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:

We went to Rochers du Paradou (Yvoir)
Only low grade sport climbing but very easy access and extremely short walk in. Great views from the top of the 70m crags.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 05 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:

I think the climbing in Belgium is pretty good, deffo better in general than sport climbing in the UK, not too hot in the summer, an easy approach from the UK and good beer.

It isn't the Verdon Gorge for sure but you can have a great trip if you check out an array of cliffs,


Chris
 duchessofmalfi 05 Sep 2016
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

The permit situation at Berdoff has changed - you no longer need a permit but you do need membership of a UIAA recognised club.

Berdoff is great.
 planetmarshall 05 Sep 2016
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

> Berdorf is a beautiful crag with superb bolted sandstone routes. Access is awkward though and you now need a permit to climb there although the permits are free.

Good call. Worth bringing some extra gear or is the fixed protection sufficient?
OP rhinomarsh 05 Sep 2016
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Is there a lot of multi pitch there?
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Good call. Worth bringing some extra gear or is the fixed protection sufficient?

The areas where climbing is still allowed are all perfectly well protected with solid bolts, in fact you would be jumped on if you started trying to places wires since it is banned! It is only one small section where there is climbing still, and there is loads of rock around. It is the best section though and the rock quality, routes and bolting are all superb. 30m sandstone pitches although the grade availability isn't great in the lower grades. No climbing allowed for a full day after rain.

Alan
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 05 Sep 2016
In reply to rhinomarsh:

> Is there a lot of multi pitch there?

Yes plenty,


Chris

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